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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. Primer might help with improving pain adhesion, but the residue may still remain. I gave up blue tac and most other forms of masking paint jobs (with the exception of bare metal areas) in favor of just learning to freehand airbrush, it give you the best control, coverage, and detail. To me, I can frequently tell the difference between an airplane done by hand and one done with some type of masking.
  2. Beautiful, makes me want to pick up one of those 1/32 MiG-29 kits....although I have a slightly different idea for my project
  3. So my OCD got the best of me, and I've decided to add the rivet work to the Tamiya 1/32 F-15C. I have a variety of tools I use for riveting, I have the Trumpeter rivet wheel but have found it difficult to use at times, also metal templates. But I've heard some good things about the "Rosie the Riveter" tool and was thinking of getting one or two. For the F-15C it looks like using their "double wheel" tool would really make things easier and more efficient. I had a couple questions though. First, can you use the double rivet tool as a single? (In other words, remove just one of the wheels), does the wheel rotate easily? (The trumpeter one is very stiff to rotate and can make things tricky especially with curved surfaces). For people that have or use this tool what are your thoughts on it? Thanks Dan
  4. Sawing blocks of resin and masking canopies are two of my least favorite modeling tasks, I automatically just go with Eduard or whoever else makes the pre-cut masks, its just so much easier and sharper I find.
  5. WOW, beautiful airplane! Love the colors, I've been hearing good things about Mr Paint, maybe I'll have to try it when I get around to doing this one. Stunning!
  6. I use krylon textured (or other brand), they sell it at most hardware stores for other application, just be sure you have your area masked off well and the rest of the plane masked/covered as well because the stuff comes out fast and goes everywhere (rattle can). Others thin putty and use a stiff bristled brush and "dab" it over the masked areas. Google is your friend.
  7. I don't know of a specific aftermarket for the type of nozzle you're referring to (there could be), but when I did my SU-30MKI a few years back I used the regular Aires resin exhausts, but cut them from the casting block at an angle and then filled, sanded, scribed as necessary to accomplish the look of them.
  8. Good looking Raptor! Especially nice job on the weapons bay. I had a blast doing this one, did you find some parts a little "over-engineered" especially with the landing gear? "
  9. Since you're re-scribing I'd go with CA glue, if I just have to fill sometimes I'll use putty. The only problem is its brittle nature and its very tricky to re-scribe with putty. There's also milliput, you can re-scribe as it dries to make it easier.
  10. To get the best "match" get the 595 paint chip chart and compare it to that. I find that Model Master has usually pretty good colors, especially the grey. To get them to work best I use Model Master Universal Acrylic thinner and a slightly larger airbrush nozzle (about 0.4mm) and Vallejo "Flow Improver." The other thing I do if a color or "shade" doesn't look right is I find a slightly darker or lighter color that's similar and thinly "mist" it on to the color that needs correction. The beauty of airbrushing is if you do it in light misty coats its very easy to correct mistakes.
  11. So I was kindly given a set of parts for my F-16A OCU conversion by a member here, unfortunately it looks like the tires included were too big for the kit parts. Does anyone have a set of tires (actually just the main wheels for the smaller F-16C landing gear for the Thunderbirds kit? Thanks Dan
  12. Here's a few pointers: Use a primer, don't spray MM acrylics on bare plastic. Use some Vallejo "Flow Improver" *THIS ONE IS IMPORTANT* Use an airbrush nozzle of 0.4mm or larger. I find if I use the small 0.2 nozzle, at least for my Harder & Steenbeck it results in the paint either building up and then blasting out, or, to combat this problem one is inclined to add more thinner to prevent this. The only problem is the paint becomes then too thin for close in fine detail, mottling (think WWII Luftwaffe), or even in general it would take forever to cover things.
  13. For hard stuff like this that doesn't want to conform to the surfaces, use Walther's Solvaset, but go easy with that stuff and give it several minutes to work before applying anymore as it can easily attack the gloss coat.
  14. Yes sir, unless it requires a mask for hard edged camouflaged I try and freehand pretty much most airbrushing.
  15. Very nice work, I did one of these Hasegawa AH-64Ds back around Christmas time and thought it was a great kit, excellent fit, overall lots of fun to build. I'm still thinking of doing one of these israeli versions. I was hoping someone would do an new-tool AH-64D in 1/35th scale as a base kit
  16. its not really very noticeable, and theres simply no way to fix it now either. Every build has a few problems that usually only the modeler knows about...
  17. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  18. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  19. I find using the Model Master acrylics work good with their thinner, I also add in a little bit of Vallejo "Flow Improver" to prevent the nozzle tip from drying. Some of the issues I've had in the past using Model Master acrylics I've determined was due to using a nozzle size that was simply too small. I presently use a Harder & Steenbeck 0.4mm nozzle and I can still spray VERY fine and tight lines with great control but I have far less in the way of airbrush problems with it.
  20. Looks like when the forums were having trouble was when I was posting mid-update. Anyways. The project is still going, I had to wait a couple weeks for one of the paints I ordered to arrive. I used Mr. Hobby Aqueous H301, H306, H308 for the main colors, when I sprayed the H308 I thought it was too dark, but once I got the other colors on it mostly "corrected" itself, I still thought the H301 was a little too brown, and I'm presently in the process of "mottling" the base colors to break up the uniformity somewhat. Love these paints though, colors are really good, spray beautifully, and NO harsh fumes to contend with. I still have a little work to do with the bleaching and fading, but once that's complete I can adjust the color on the H301 so it has more of that dark gray/black hue to it, and then paint the base colors over where the crews touched up the paint. I'll take some more photos while I'm doing more of the weathering. Enjoy.
  21. Does anyone in the US have 1-3 bottles of Mr Hobby H308 (The aqueous version) I could buy from them and have it overnighted. The first time I ordered it from China (big mistake), then I ordered it from the UK and that was almost 2 weeks ago and I was told 7-10 days. Please send me a PM, PayPal for payment is easier. Thanks Dan
  22. Finding photos online of these areas and either close enough to make out the rivet work or high enough resolution is harder than one thinks. In fact, finding reference photos of the upper surfaces for doing the most accurate camouflage can be very difficult. I lucked out with the one I want to do and have photos of it from ALL angles. I just can't make out the detail.
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