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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. Be SURE to use only Vallejo thinner and also their "flow improver" product for acrylic paints (it can actually be used with most other types of acrylic paints with great effect, I can vouch for Testors Model Master, Taimya, and Mr Hobby; it prevents paint from drying and clogging up the airbrush nozzle/tip).
  2. So I'm working on a highly modified/detailed Tamiya F-15C and I added rivets to the whole fuselage, wings, etc. I have some photos of the Great Wall Hobby F-15C both the actual sprues and CAD images that show some images on the inboard section of the "saw tooth" section of the horizontal stabilators with rivet/screw detail (the part closest to the fuselage). I have the Jake Melampy Eagle book that confirms this on the bottom of the stabilizer but no photos close up enough to tell from the upper surface. I was hoping some former F-15C Eagle mechanics, crew chiefs, or pilots might be able to
  3. So I was hoping to trade my brand new Tamiya F-15C Eagle (all parts except the clear ones are in the original packages, and the clear parts were simply inspected and placed back in the bag) for a Tamiya 1/32 F-15E Strike Eagle. Send me a PM if interested. Thanks Dan
  4. I used to use Flory Models (and they're very good), then I used enamels as they create great staining effects and are good to use for US Navy planes if you used a really durable paint like Mr Color Lacquer. Over time though I found I developed a preference for oil washes, you can control how thin/thick they are, have a large range of color options, you can do "oil dot filtering" effects with them, any brand of good quality oil paints from an art supply store and mineral spirits is what you're looking for. Also searching for different articles about each type here on the forum can be a good i
  5. Oh great, now I'll be needing to do another 1/32 A-6E, thanks a lot! :-)
  6. You could try some type of acrylic solvent like windex, or either 70% or 91% isopropyl alcohol, and then gently rotate the area so it "flows" smoothly; but do I test first on a scrap piece of plastic that you'll "pool" future on. I used to swear by Future until I discovered Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss after someone on the boards told me about it. It might be a bit more expensive to use than future, however, its sprays and lays down BEAUTIFULLY, gives a wonderful glass-like finish, and I think is worth the extra cost. More importantly, you don't have to worry about "pooling" so much like you do
  7. If purchasing the right colors is important to you (I have my areas of modeling OCD as well, just not with this) then by all means... However, I've done a couple of very detailed and weathered Su-27 Flankers, and one thing I learned is that unless its basically a brand new aircraft/paint job you won't get "the look" you're after. My best advice is to add a bunch of white to a light blue color, maybe a small amount of light grey too, if needed spray it in a "mottled" pattern over the whole fuselage, then do the same thing with the darker blue and grey color (just eyeball it) and spray those c
  8. You can use some type of measuring at first, but after a while with some practice you can just sort "eyeball" it, one little trick is to watch how paint on the sides of the color cup flows down. Ultimately, its practice, practice, practice.
  9. Nice job, I've never been much into 1/72 scale, but like someone mentioned above you really can't tell its 1/72 and I've always thought that is the mark of a really good modeler. If you can make a 1/72 scale look like 1/48 or 1/32 and not be able to notice you've got some good talent and skill. Dan
  10. I'd recommend the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline in the link below, get the 0.2mm and 0.4mm nozzle needles, thin the paint to about the consistency of whole milk. And you can go with those regular compressors (get a regulator so you can adjust the PSI as needed) but unfortunately thet can be very loud and annoying. Or you can invest in a Silentaire compressor (they're pricey, but WELL worth it and much more pleasant to use) Its about as loud as a refrigerator motor or air conditioner. Speaking from experience, I would avoid the Testors Aztek line of airbrushes. Aztk'd are har
  11. I find some washes can have their uses, but overall its a sales gimmick. Get ahold of some good quality artist oil paints (Rembrandt and Windsor & Newton are pretty good) (some hobby shops sell them just ask), but a local art supply store should be able to help you out then get some odorless mineral spirits (this should usually last you YEARS), then I mix up various washes in little glass or plastic bottles. The trick is figuring out the proper consistency (maybe check out some youtube videos on the subject?). Also either a Future or Tamiya Clear X-22 gloss coat is ESSENTIAL, and give
  12. I use Tamiya thinner for Tamiya Paints and Mr Hobby (The Gunze Aqueous line, NOT Mr Color!), for Model Master and Floquil I use a combination of their Universal Acrylic Thinner and about 10% or so of Vallejo 'Flow Improver.' Also, I use a 0.4mm airbrush nozzle when working with acrylics and find that really helps prevent drying at the tip which causes pressure to build up and "blasts" paint everywhere.
  13. Primer might help with improving pain adhesion, but the residue may still remain. I gave up blue tac and most other forms of masking paint jobs (with the exception of bare metal areas) in favor of just learning to freehand airbrush, it give you the best control, coverage, and detail. To me, I can frequently tell the difference between an airplane done by hand and one done with some type of masking.
  14. Beautiful, makes me want to pick up one of those 1/32 MiG-29 kits....although I have a slightly different idea for my project
  15. So my OCD got the best of me, and I've decided to add the rivet work to the Tamiya 1/32 F-15C. I have a variety of tools I use for riveting, I have the Trumpeter rivet wheel but have found it difficult to use at times, also metal templates. But I've heard some good things about the "Rosie the Riveter" tool and was thinking of getting one or two. For the F-15C it looks like using their "double wheel" tool would really make things easier and more efficient. I had a couple questions though. First, can you use the double rivet tool as a single? (In other words, remove just one of the wheels),
  16. Sawing blocks of resin and masking canopies are two of my least favorite modeling tasks, I automatically just go with Eduard or whoever else makes the pre-cut masks, its just so much easier and sharper I find.
  17. WOW, beautiful airplane! Love the colors, I've been hearing good things about Mr Paint, maybe I'll have to try it when I get around to doing this one. Stunning!
  18. I use krylon textured (or other brand), they sell it at most hardware stores for other application, just be sure you have your area masked off well and the rest of the plane masked/covered as well because the stuff comes out fast and goes everywhere (rattle can). Others thin putty and use a stiff bristled brush and "dab" it over the masked areas. Google is your friend.
  19. I don't know of a specific aftermarket for the type of nozzle you're referring to (there could be), but when I did my SU-30MKI a few years back I used the regular Aires resin exhausts, but cut them from the casting block at an angle and then filled, sanded, scribed as necessary to accomplish the look of them.
  20. Good looking Raptor! Especially nice job on the weapons bay. I had a blast doing this one, did you find some parts a little "over-engineered" especially with the landing gear? "
  21. Since you're re-scribing I'd go with CA glue, if I just have to fill sometimes I'll use putty. The only problem is its brittle nature and its very tricky to re-scribe with putty. There's also milliput, you can re-scribe as it dries to make it easier.
  22. To get the best "match" get the 595 paint chip chart and compare it to that. I find that Model Master has usually pretty good colors, especially the grey. To get them to work best I use Model Master Universal Acrylic thinner and a slightly larger airbrush nozzle (about 0.4mm) and Vallejo "Flow Improver." The other thing I do if a color or "shade" doesn't look right is I find a slightly darker or lighter color that's similar and thinly "mist" it on to the color that needs correction. The beauty of airbrushing is if you do it in light misty coats its very easy to correct mistakes.
  23. So I was kindly given a set of parts for my F-16A OCU conversion by a member here, unfortunately it looks like the tires included were too big for the kit parts. Does anyone have a set of tires (actually just the main wheels for the smaller F-16C landing gear for the Thunderbirds kit? Thanks Dan
  24. Here's a few pointers: Use a primer, don't spray MM acrylics on bare plastic. Use some Vallejo "Flow Improver" *THIS ONE IS IMPORTANT* Use an airbrush nozzle of 0.4mm or larger. I find if I use the small 0.2 nozzle, at least for my Harder & Steenbeck it results in the paint either building up and then blasting out, or, to combat this problem one is inclined to add more thinner to prevent this. The only problem is the paint becomes then too thin for close in fine detail, mottling (think WWII Luftwaffe), or even in general it would take forever to cov
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