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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. You can use some type of measuring at first, but after a while with some practice you can just sort "eyeball" it, one little trick is to watch how paint on the sides of the color cup flows down. Ultimately, its practice, practice, practice.
  2. Nice job, I've never been much into 1/72 scale, but like someone mentioned above you really can't tell its 1/72 and I've always thought that is the mark of a really good modeler. If you can make a 1/72 scale look like 1/48 or 1/32 and not be able to notice you've got some good talent and skill. Dan
  3. I'd recommend the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline in the link below, get the 0.2mm and 0.4mm nozzle needles, thin the paint to about the consistency of whole milk. And you can go with those regular compressors (get a regulator so you can adjust the PSI as needed) but unfortunately thet can be very loud and annoying. Or you can invest in a Silentaire compressor (they're pricey, but WELL worth it and much more pleasant to use) Its about as loud as a refrigerator motor or air conditioner. Speaking from experience, I would avoid the Testors Aztek line of airbrushes. Aztk'd are hard to clean, and you frequently need to replace the nozzles and that can get expensive. I found I would spend large amounts of time just trying to get the thing to work properly, often more time tinkering with it than actually airbrushing. After quite a while I gave up and got the Harder & Steenbeck, it sprays beautifully and consistently, very easy to clean, durable and well-made German engineering. Hope this helps https://www.ebay.com/i/172781372021?chn=ps&dispItem=1 (this is a link to the Harder & Steenbeck) Any other questions send me a PM Dan
  4. I find some washes can have their uses, but overall its a sales gimmick. Get ahold of some good quality artist oil paints (Rembrandt and Windsor & Newton are pretty good) (some hobby shops sell them just ask), but a local art supply store should be able to help you out then get some odorless mineral spirits (this should usually last you YEARS), then I mix up various washes in little glass or plastic bottles. The trick is figuring out the proper consistency (maybe check out some youtube videos on the subject?). Also either a Future or Tamiya Clear X-22 gloss coat is ESSENTIAL, and give it a solid 2 days to dry/cure; the will let the wash flow better into panel and engraved detail. If the wash is too thin it will run and you'll have a hard time getting it to stay in some of the detail (especially if your gloss coat was too thick, I always say that moment when you tell yourself "I should just add 1 or 2 more coats" is your signal to STOP! If its too thick it won't flow into the recess details via capillary action. Experiment on a scrap/test/old ruined model to see what works. Get a lot of makeup sponges from a pharmacy or makeup store (they're usually pretty cheap) and then q-tips both regular store kind, and having the smaller and more narrow and pointed ones specifically for modeling can help if you have funny corners, crevices, angles, etc. The beauty of working with oils is that what you take off is more important than what you apply, and you can always take the makeup sponge dip it in the mineral spirits and wipe it all off if you aren't satisfied and want to start over. For me, nothing beats oil paint washes when it comes to range of color, streaking effects, staining from rain and weathering, etc. In fact, its one of my favorite parts of modeling getting to remove the excess wash and see all that wonderful panel line detail come to life, it really makes the model "pop" and catch the eye. I know some of the purists will say "but its not on the real planes to such an extent" I would argue otherwise, it also is just a model and using a little artistic license can go a long way. Hope that helps
  5. I use Tamiya thinner for Tamiya Paints and Mr Hobby (The Gunze Aqueous line, NOT Mr Color!), for Model Master and Floquil I use a combination of their Universal Acrylic Thinner and about 10% or so of Vallejo 'Flow Improver.' Also, I use a 0.4mm airbrush nozzle when working with acrylics and find that really helps prevent drying at the tip which causes pressure to build up and "blasts" paint everywhere.
  6. Primer might help with improving pain adhesion, but the residue may still remain. I gave up blue tac and most other forms of masking paint jobs (with the exception of bare metal areas) in favor of just learning to freehand airbrush, it give you the best control, coverage, and detail. To me, I can frequently tell the difference between an airplane done by hand and one done with some type of masking.
  7. Beautiful, makes me want to pick up one of those 1/32 MiG-29 kits....although I have a slightly different idea for my project
  8. So my OCD got the best of me, and I've decided to add the rivet work to the Tamiya 1/32 F-15C. I have a variety of tools I use for riveting, I have the Trumpeter rivet wheel but have found it difficult to use at times, also metal templates. But I've heard some good things about the "Rosie the Riveter" tool and was thinking of getting one or two. For the F-15C it looks like using their "double wheel" tool would really make things easier and more efficient. I had a couple questions though. First, can you use the double rivet tool as a single? (In other words, remove just one of the wheels), does the wheel rotate easily? (The trumpeter one is very stiff to rotate and can make things tricky especially with curved surfaces). For people that have or use this tool what are your thoughts on it? Thanks Dan
  9. Sawing blocks of resin and masking canopies are two of my least favorite modeling tasks, I automatically just go with Eduard or whoever else makes the pre-cut masks, its just so much easier and sharper I find.
  10. WOW, beautiful airplane! Love the colors, I've been hearing good things about Mr Paint, maybe I'll have to try it when I get around to doing this one. Stunning!
  11. I use krylon textured (or other brand), they sell it at most hardware stores for other application, just be sure you have your area masked off well and the rest of the plane masked/covered as well because the stuff comes out fast and goes everywhere (rattle can). Others thin putty and use a stiff bristled brush and "dab" it over the masked areas. Google is your friend.
  12. I don't know of a specific aftermarket for the type of nozzle you're referring to (there could be), but when I did my SU-30MKI a few years back I used the regular Aires resin exhausts, but cut them from the casting block at an angle and then filled, sanded, scribed as necessary to accomplish the look of them.
  13. Good looking Raptor! Especially nice job on the weapons bay. I had a blast doing this one, did you find some parts a little "over-engineered" especially with the landing gear? "
  14. Since you're re-scribing I'd go with CA glue, if I just have to fill sometimes I'll use putty. The only problem is its brittle nature and its very tricky to re-scribe with putty. There's also milliput, you can re-scribe as it dries to make it easier.
  15. To get the best "match" get the 595 paint chip chart and compare it to that. I find that Model Master has usually pretty good colors, especially the grey. To get them to work best I use Model Master Universal Acrylic thinner and a slightly larger airbrush nozzle (about 0.4mm) and Vallejo "Flow Improver." The other thing I do if a color or "shade" doesn't look right is I find a slightly darker or lighter color that's similar and thinly "mist" it on to the color that needs correction. The beauty of airbrushing is if you do it in light misty coats its very easy to correct mistakes.
  16. So I was kindly given a set of parts for my F-16A OCU conversion by a member here, unfortunately it looks like the tires included were too big for the kit parts. Does anyone have a set of tires (actually just the main wheels for the smaller F-16C landing gear for the Thunderbirds kit? Thanks Dan
  17. Here's a few pointers: Use a primer, don't spray MM acrylics on bare plastic. Use some Vallejo "Flow Improver" *THIS ONE IS IMPORTANT* Use an airbrush nozzle of 0.4mm or larger. I find if I use the small 0.2 nozzle, at least for my Harder & Steenbeck it results in the paint either building up and then blasting out, or, to combat this problem one is inclined to add more thinner to prevent this. The only problem is the paint becomes then too thin for close in fine detail, mottling (think WWII Luftwaffe), or even in general it would take forever to cover things.
  18. For hard stuff like this that doesn't want to conform to the surfaces, use Walther's Solvaset, but go easy with that stuff and give it several minutes to work before applying anymore as it can easily attack the gloss coat.
  19. Yes sir, unless it requires a mask for hard edged camouflaged I try and freehand pretty much most airbrushing.
  20. Very nice work, I did one of these Hasegawa AH-64Ds back around Christmas time and thought it was a great kit, excellent fit, overall lots of fun to build. I'm still thinking of doing one of these israeli versions. I was hoping someone would do an new-tool AH-64D in 1/35th scale as a base kit
  21. its not really very noticeable, and theres simply no way to fix it now either. Every build has a few problems that usually only the modeler knows about...
  22. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
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