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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. I don't know of a specific aftermarket for the type of nozzle you're referring to (there could be), but when I did my SU-30MKI a few years back I used the regular Aires resin exhausts, but cut them from the casting block at an angle and then filled, sanded, scribed as necessary to accomplish the look of them.
  2. Good looking Raptor! Especially nice job on the weapons bay. I had a blast doing this one, did you find some parts a little "over-engineered" especially with the landing gear? "
  3. Since you're re-scribing I'd go with CA glue, if I just have to fill sometimes I'll use putty. The only problem is its brittle nature and its very tricky to re-scribe with putty. There's also milliput, you can re-scribe as it dries to make it easier.
  4. To get the best "match" get the 595 paint chip chart and compare it to that. I find that Model Master has usually pretty good colors, especially the grey. To get them to work best I use Model Master Universal Acrylic thinner and a slightly larger airbrush nozzle (about 0.4mm) and Vallejo "Flow Improver." The other thing I do if a color or "shade" doesn't look right is I find a slightly darker or lighter color that's similar and thinly "mist" it on to the color that needs correction. The beauty of airbrushing is if you do it in light misty coats its very easy to correct mistakes.
  5. So I was kindly given a set of parts for my F-16A OCU conversion by a member here, unfortunately it looks like the tires included were too big for the kit parts. Does anyone have a set of tires (actually just the main wheels for the smaller F-16C landing gear for the Thunderbirds kit? Thanks Dan
  6. Here's a few pointers: Use a primer, don't spray MM acrylics on bare plastic. Use some Vallejo "Flow Improver" *THIS ONE IS IMPORTANT* Use an airbrush nozzle of 0.4mm or larger. I find if I use the small 0.2 nozzle, at least for my Harder & Steenbeck it results in the paint either building up and then blasting out, or, to combat this problem one is inclined to add more thinner to prevent this. The only problem is the paint becomes then too thin for close in fine detail, mottling (think WWII Luftwaffe), or even in general it would take forever to cover things.
  7. For hard stuff like this that doesn't want to conform to the surfaces, use Walther's Solvaset, but go easy with that stuff and give it several minutes to work before applying anymore as it can easily attack the gloss coat.
  8. Yes sir, unless it requires a mask for hard edged camouflaged I try and freehand pretty much most airbrushing.
  9. Very nice work, I did one of these Hasegawa AH-64Ds back around Christmas time and thought it was a great kit, excellent fit, overall lots of fun to build. I'm still thinking of doing one of these israeli versions. I was hoping someone would do an new-tool AH-64D in 1/35th scale as a base kit
  10. its not really very noticeable, and theres simply no way to fix it now either. Every build has a few problems that usually only the modeler knows about...
  11. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  12. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  13. I find using the Model Master acrylics work good with their thinner, I also add in a little bit of Vallejo "Flow Improver" to prevent the nozzle tip from drying. Some of the issues I've had in the past using Model Master acrylics I've determined was due to using a nozzle size that was simply too small. I presently use a Harder & Steenbeck 0.4mm nozzle and I can still spray VERY fine and tight lines with great control but I have far less in the way of airbrush problems with it.
  14. Looks like when the forums were having trouble was when I was posting mid-update. Anyways. The project is still going, I had to wait a couple weeks for one of the paints I ordered to arrive. I used Mr. Hobby Aqueous H301, H306, H308 for the main colors, when I sprayed the H308 I thought it was too dark, but once I got the other colors on it mostly "corrected" itself, I still thought the H301 was a little too brown, and I'm presently in the process of "mottling" the base colors to break up the uniformity somewhat. Love these paints though, colors are really good, spray beautifully, and NO harsh fumes to contend with. I still have a little work to do with the bleaching and fading, but once that's complete I can adjust the color on the H301 so it has more of that dark gray/black hue to it, and then paint the base colors over where the crews touched up the paint. I'll take some more photos while I'm doing more of the weathering. Enjoy.
  15. Does anyone in the US have 1-3 bottles of Mr Hobby H308 (The aqueous version) I could buy from them and have it overnighted. The first time I ordered it from China (big mistake), then I ordered it from the UK and that was almost 2 weeks ago and I was told 7-10 days. Please send me a PM, PayPal for payment is easier. Thanks Dan
  16. Finding photos online of these areas and either close enough to make out the rivet work or high enough resolution is harder than one thinks. In fact, finding reference photos of the upper surfaces for doing the most accurate camouflage can be very difficult. I lucked out with the one I want to do and have photos of it from ALL angles. I just can't make out the detail.
  17. Well it's ready for painting, and took a lot less time than I anticipated, having a week off where I was able to get a lot of the conversion done certainly helped. Nevertheless, I suppose when you've developed and practiced certain techniques and have the right tools it makes things easier as well. I found the Stynylrez grey primer to be a little too dark and would make laying down the FS 36375 harder and require more paint. I decided against priming in all white though since I've found white in general can be problematic especially with larger surface areas. Since getting ahold of the Mr Hobby line of paints is difficult in the USA, I don't want to use more than I need. Mr Hobby sprays so nicely with Tamiya acrylic thinner and not having those brutal fumes from the Mr Color lacquer makes airbrushing much more pleasant. So I mixed up a custom batch of about 2/3 white, 1/3 grey which is pretty close to what Mr. Surfacer looks like. Now all I'm doing is waiting on the Mr Hobby FS 36375 that I ordered off of eBay weeks ago, however its now past due from when the shipper says it should arrive....since getting things mailed from China is dodgy, I went ahead and ordered them (and some other Mr Hobby paints) from a place in the UK a little over a week ago anticipating this, they seem more reputable; but watch they'll both arrive on the same day :-). I double checked pretty much everything in my references, panel lines, etc. while not perfect and I'm sure there's stuff that could also be done, it looks good enough to me. While I'm waiting for the paint to arrive, I think I'll start working on using Alclad for the GT resin exhaust. The next update will have more detailed pictures and descriptions about how I did the airbrushing of the camouflage. Once the whole build is done, I'll post a list of the major changes I did to convert the F-16CJ in an F-16A OCU.
  18. Bump. If it's easier for anyone out there, my email address dsahling1@yahoo.com, I just need photos of the upper and lower fuselage and wings that show where the rivets are supposed to be, also on the front fuselage too if thats where some are. Thanks Dan
  19. I would use a combination of roughly fit plastic card (for strength) and CA glue with accelerator to speed up the drying time to about 3 seconds :-), but before you glue it make sure ALL the canopy parts fit and are level with the fuselage. This should save you much swearing and time (don't ask how I know). Then just sand the CA glue smooth with progressively finer grades of sanding sticks/paper and make flush with the surfaces. CA glue dries ROCK hard in second and is the best thing for scribing (you don't have to worry about shrinkage or pieces getting brittle and coming off and you sand it. You could also try milliput as well, but I would go for CA glue with a gap that big, its strength will also make handling the model in the future easier and less prone to breaking if you bump it against something.
  20. Thanks so much! If it's easier, here's my email address dsahling1@yahoo.com
  21. This is a 1/32 Trumpeter A-4F (converted into an A-4E) I did a couple years ago. I painstakingly looked at various reference photos of the actual jet and freeze frames from the movie to get the most accurate camouflage scheme for Jester's A-4 (I believe its the same one Viper flew), the decal instructions aren't completely accurate with how they have it depicted. If you need more photos send me a PM with your email and I'll send you the reference material I used, however the link below should be the most accurate one you can find. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=52778&hl=
  22. Would anyone out there that has the GWH 1/48 F-15C kit be so kind as to take some photos of the upper and lower fuselage with the upper and lower wings? I'm going to be starting a 1/32 F-15C soon and was looking to add more rivet detail to the fuselage and wings and I'm having trouble locating good close up photos of how the rivets are arranged and was hoping someone that hasn't built the kit might be able to post some photos here on ARC that I could use for a reference? Thanks Dan
  23. So I'm doing my first WIP here, and I can't figure out how people change the title when they update their WIP with the latest progress. Any tips? Dan
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