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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. Yes sir, unless it requires a mask for hard edged camouflaged I try and freehand pretty much most airbrushing.
  2. Very nice work, I did one of these Hasegawa AH-64Ds back around Christmas time and thought it was a great kit, excellent fit, overall lots of fun to build. I'm still thinking of doing one of these israeli versions. I was hoping someone would do an new-tool AH-64D in 1/35th scale as a base kit
  3. its not really very noticeable, and theres simply no way to fix it now either. Every build has a few problems that usually only the modeler knows about...
  4. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  5. Can someone explain how to take good photos with just a basic set up? Like what kind of lights and their positions, background. I know cloudy days usually give the best natural light but I wanted to take some better photos. I also dont have a digital camera and just use my iPhone 6. Thanks Dan
  6. I find using the Model Master acrylics work good with their thinner, I also add in a little bit of Vallejo "Flow Improver" to prevent the nozzle tip from drying. Some of the issues I've had in the past using Model Master acrylics I've determined was due to using a nozzle size that was simply too small. I presently use a Harder & Steenbeck 0.4mm nozzle and I can still spray VERY fine and tight lines with great control but I have far less in the way of airbrush problems with it.
  7. Looks like when the forums were having trouble was when I was posting mid-update. Anyways. The project is still going, I had to wait a couple weeks for one of the paints I ordered to arrive. I used Mr. Hobby Aqueous H301, H306, H308 for the main colors, when I sprayed the H308 I thought it was too dark, but once I got the other colors on it mostly "corrected" itself, I still thought the H301 was a little too brown, and I'm presently in the process of "mottling" the base colors to break up the uniformity somewhat. Love these paints though, colors are really good, spray beautifully, and NO h
  8. Does anyone in the US have 1-3 bottles of Mr Hobby H308 (The aqueous version) I could buy from them and have it overnighted. The first time I ordered it from China (big mistake), then I ordered it from the UK and that was almost 2 weeks ago and I was told 7-10 days. Please send me a PM, PayPal for payment is easier. Thanks Dan
  9. Finding photos online of these areas and either close enough to make out the rivet work or high enough resolution is harder than one thinks. In fact, finding reference photos of the upper surfaces for doing the most accurate camouflage can be very difficult. I lucked out with the one I want to do and have photos of it from ALL angles. I just can't make out the detail.
  10. Well it's ready for painting, and took a lot less time than I anticipated, having a week off where I was able to get a lot of the conversion done certainly helped. Nevertheless, I suppose when you've developed and practiced certain techniques and have the right tools it makes things easier as well. I found the Stynylrez grey primer to be a little too dark and would make laying down the FS 36375 harder and require more paint. I decided against priming in all white though since I've found white in general can be problematic especially with larger surface areas. Since getting ahold of the Mr H
  11. Bump. If it's easier for anyone out there, my email address dsahling1@yahoo.com, I just need photos of the upper and lower fuselage and wings that show where the rivets are supposed to be, also on the front fuselage too if thats where some are. Thanks Dan
  12. I would use a combination of roughly fit plastic card (for strength) and CA glue with accelerator to speed up the drying time to about 3 seconds :-), but before you glue it make sure ALL the canopy parts fit and are level with the fuselage. This should save you much swearing and time (don't ask how I know). Then just sand the CA glue smooth with progressively finer grades of sanding sticks/paper and make flush with the surfaces. CA glue dries ROCK hard in second and is the best thing for scribing (you don't have to worry about shrinkage or pieces getting brittle and coming off and you sand
  13. Thanks so much! If it's easier, here's my email address dsahling1@yahoo.com
  14. This is a 1/32 Trumpeter A-4F (converted into an A-4E) I did a couple years ago. I painstakingly looked at various reference photos of the actual jet and freeze frames from the movie to get the most accurate camouflage scheme for Jester's A-4 (I believe its the same one Viper flew), the decal instructions aren't completely accurate with how they have it depicted. If you need more photos send me a PM with your email and I'll send you the reference material I used, however the link below should be the most accurate one you can find. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showt
  15. Would anyone out there that has the GWH 1/48 F-15C kit be so kind as to take some photos of the upper and lower fuselage with the upper and lower wings? I'm going to be starting a 1/32 F-15C soon and was looking to add more rivet detail to the fuselage and wings and I'm having trouble locating good close up photos of how the rivets are arranged and was hoping someone that hasn't built the kit might be able to post some photos here on ARC that I could use for a reference? Thanks Dan
  16. So I'm doing my first WIP here, and I can't figure out how people change the title when they update their WIP with the latest progress. Any tips? Dan
  17. Does anyone have a spare set from any 1/32 kit or decals sheet (or know of a decal sheet) that has those little "NO PUSH" red stencil decals with the dark grey background that are found on the exhaust petals of the F-16s fitted with the Pratt & Whitney exhausts? Thanks Dan
  18. So I decided since I was updating this WIP that I'd show some of those last parts I mentioned earlier tonight: Here's the little scoop/AC vent? inside the rear cockpit, on this particular aircraft (not sure about others) its painted a light tan color, I also made a couple painting corrections to the ejection seat. Now I'm contemplating doing the rest of the air seal rim, only thing is it was REALLY hard to fit the resin piece and have the canopy fit up or down so I don't know how to reliably test fit this since it will require bending a piece of styrene...maybe use thick lead wire
  19. One thing I'm working out is where to get ahold of those little red "no push" decal stencils that are on the petals of the P&W exhaust...any thoughts? I suppose I could get the photoetch airbrush stencils that might have it and I could airbrush them on? Does anyone know a decal supplier? I actually prefer decals because you can arrange the line up in a more even and equal fashion and make small adjustments, whereas airbrushing something like that you need to get right on the first try otherwise if you really mess up you'll have to redo the metallic paint finish.... Any help or thoughts
  20. Second part of the update: So while reviewing some Israeli F-16A photos as well as my NSAWC F-16A I saw that these appear to have more prominent rivets on the horizontal stabilizer than the F-16Cs do (those appear to not have rivets, at least from the photos I saw). Since the NSAWC F-16A I'm doing has a lot of touchups (I love weathering so this is a dream come true) these rivets are subtle but prominent feature to "backdate" this one. I swore I would only do the top...well about a week later I was up late and thought (this is going to drive my OCD nuts if I leave it like this, s
  21. A few updates from the past week or so, as it stands now, I'm just giving the canopy polishing medium a couple days to thoroughly cure as I've noticed sometimes its gets a little less clear after putting the masking tape on shortly after removing the seam and polishing it up, small detail but one that I think will help a lot. Once that's done I jut have to apply paint the canopy and add the hand grasps on the interior of it and then its ready for PRIMING which means my favorite part of modeling is a short time away...AIRBRUSHING! From the reference book I have I saw the F-16A has
  22. I like the work with the canvas covers, what does "MEK" stand for and where do you acquire and how do you use it?
  23. Couple more questions, on the panel between the fuselage and the wing on the F-16CJ kit there is a little "bump," is this something on the F-16A Block 15? And when these embargoed F-16As were used for air combat training did they have the chaff and flare dispensers loaded? If so was the chaff or flares on the left or right side of the lower fuselage?
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