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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. What's the preferred type of CA? Thin, med, or thick? What would you say would be a good ratio (ball park?) Dan
  2. So I've recently re-discovered milliput and thought this stuff could have some wonderful application to filling seams and gaps, especially along fuselage halves, while my current project is curing overnight for an F-16A cockpit I thought I would ask see just how strong this stuff cures to? Can you easily re-scribe panel lines with milliput? My usual go-to for filling is cyanoacrylate with accelerator but it dries SO hard that unless you have almost the perfect size for the gap it takes a long time to properly sand down, but it holds up well to scribing and fixes. Thanks Dan
  3. I feel like it must've been been an old enamel wash that I had kept, cause I remember dragging it out of one of the drawers and putting it on the shelf and thinking in the back of my mind like it was an old enamel wash. I was able to salvage it, and it just looks like a weathered helicopter, it'll do. But I guess the lesson is always just take the few seconds to mix up a fresh oil wash to be safe. Thanks for the input though. Dan
  4. So yesterday I had prepped a helicopter I've been working on as I usually do, mr color primer, model master and tamiya acrylics, with a coat of tamiya clear. Then on went the decals, waited a couple days, and sealed the decals with another layer of tamiya clear. Nothing new. I went to put what I believe was an oil wash, but it might have been an old enamel wash or an old oil wash (but I didn't detect the distinct odor of enamel thinner, I added a little more oil paint to it and then thinned it with mineral spirits. I applied the wash, and then went on to work on another project for maybe about 3 hours and came back to remove the wash with make up sponges and mineral spirits. The wash hardly budged, I would get a tiny amount off as could be seen on the sponge and mineral spirits. But it wouldn't come off AT ALL, I tried applying coat after coat of mineral spirits to "soak it" for an hour, nothing, tried soapy water, nothing. Then when I was about ready to call it a day and start over I went and took my dog for a walk and thought it over and it occurred to me, enamel paints are oil based, and I wasn't entirely sure of which wash I used..... So I had a small amount of enamel thinner left over and tried it...and it worked, but was incredibly slow and required a lot of elbow grease to remove. I used an entire bottle of enamel thinner and a box of q-tips that I was able to pick up at the hobby shop at the last minute. Only tiny amounts of paint got stripped from the vigorous scrubbing, so its fixed, but looks like a very weathered UH-1Y which wasn't exactly the look I was going for as these are mostly clear but it'll have to do, and leads me to believe it wasn't an interaction between the tamiya clear and the wash because the decals held up beautifully and didn't rub off at all!! I've left oil washes on longer than 3 hours and while a little more difficult I have never had this kind of problem. I left the second gloss coat to cure for 48 hours, and like I said it protected most of the paint and I was able to remove the oil wash...The mineral spirits smelled funny, almost like B.O., does that mean they've gone bad? I'm going to toss that bottle and trying mix up some new oil wash. I noticed to that when I applied the wash it seemed "granular" like the oil paints were either old or hadn't dissolved. Anyone have a similar experience? Do you think I used an old enamel wash accidentally and then mixed in the oil paint and mineral spirit and thats where it got all messed up. I spent 6 hours removing this wash, which should've only taken about an hour...thoughts....ideas....????? Should you always mix up a new oil wash rather than save it for months on end? Thanks Dan
  5. I was able to find a photo of the top of the rotor (slightly blurred) but it does appear to be a darker color than the Light Ghost Grey, as someone mentioned here its an opaque coating and understandably would get pretty dirty from use and probably causes the underlying paint to appear a darker shade as such, I decided to wing it (I suppose rotor t? is more appropriate) that one was REALLY bad I know, and just used Dark Gull Grey which looked good enough for me. Thanks for all the help though everyone! Dan
  6. Here's one, the problem is I can't tell if its just a continuation of the paint on the top of the rotor, or a separate coating, and if someone knows the answer if its a separate coating just an approximate color of it, like a darker grey, or light brownish (think Tamiya Buff).
  7. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  8. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  9. Kind similar to the real cost of the plane? :-)
  10. I know some blocks of resin just simply need to be cut with a saw manually, but for grinding and fitting does the dremel make it easier (in some instances obviously)? Thoughts? Dan
  11. One thing maybe some of the F-16 experts out there can help answer. I've noticed a lot of the F-16C Block 50/52 usually the one's assigned to "Wild Weasel" missions have a portion of the vertical stabilizer attachment that looks like a lighter shade of grey, maybe FS 36375, compared to the other medium grey FS 36270, although it could just be a fresh coat of paint? Any thoughts?
  12. Send me a photo of it too, dsahling1@yahoo.com, I think the Flanker is a beautiful plane, and would be glad to try and offer some assistance with a way to try and fix it if possible. Dan
  13. I appreciate the input, I probably should wear a mask a little more, and I know acrylics aren't good either, its just those lacquer fumes are SO strong I just want to leave the apartment for a while, and acrylics leave much less of an odor and are easier for me to tolerate. Thanks though.
  14. Let me preface this by saying I have no background in engineering, and I'm a "math moron" but I know there are some really talented modelers and software engineers out there. I think the 3D printing technology will really be a great way to create parts, projects, and improvements and over the next 5-10 years will make some major advancements and could really revolutionize our hobby. But that's just my thoughts.
  15. Good point, my mistake on the drag been a while since I've flown😋
  16. I wasn't a fighter pilot (sadly) or maintenance guy, they could probably give you the best answer. But I did used to be a CFI-I and if I could guess it would be a performance issue, more weight and drag? Or they just don't do the mission types that other places use them for, like israel?, increased loiter time?
  17. Thanks guys, I was thinking to myself a couple days ago, if simply priming a 1/48th UH-1Y produces such strong fumes to ME, its got to be torture for my dog. Sorry little buddy! Although he usually sleeps nearby while I work and hasn't seemed to mind. And in no way am I try to bad mouth Mr. Color products, they spray BEAUTIFULLY and have a great range of color and I wouldn't write them off completely, and if you have a more heavy duty exhaust/spray booth it might be better. But spraying acrylics just doesn't leave me with such a headache and is easier in an apartment.
  18. Since it looks like it is physically possible that they could've opened (as long as they weren't bolted up), lets just say for my "OCMD" (see description above) that a "rogue sparrow" was suspected as a stowaway and the crew were looking for it? :-)
  19. So I moved away from Mr. Color lacquer because while it sprays beautifully the fumes are just too much even with a paint booth and mask. Plus I live in an apartment with my dog and I feel badly for the little guy :-( So I use them only for priming really now, but even that is just a bit muc. And I live Colorado which might as well be a frozen wasteland so spraying outside isnt an option plus hauling all the equipment doesn't work. When I've used some acrylics on bare plastic they don't adhere well and will often lift if masking tape is applied. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a good acrylic based primer? I like using Model Master and Tamiya Acrylics, and if I can get my hands on Mr. Hobby Aqueous I like those too. Just as an aside, since I've got an F-16CJ build coming up, who do you guys think makes the best match for FS 36270 and FS 36118? Appreciate the input Dan
  20. Thanks Jari, you have no idea how much you just settled my "OCMD" Obsessive Compulsive Modelers Disorder" :-) with that. I did an A-6A a ways back, and decided to pose the speed brakes open to show off some of the detail but knew they were disabled. Thanks! Dan
  21. I know the A-6A was originally designed with the fuselage speed brakes but do to pitch problems? I believe they were "disabled" and used the wing-tip ones instead. For the airframes that retained the perforated, albeit disabled fuselage speed brakes, would it ever have been possible to open them for either maintenance or inspection purposes? (Provided they weren't the bolted over kind)?
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