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Everything posted by dsahling

  1. I'm working on converting a Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ into an F-16A Block 15 and had a question about the triangular shaped panels just in front of the vertical stabilizer. I have a book that has something of a schematic drawing of this area that clearly shows these panels. However, I'm trying to find photos of this area to confirm it on the F-16A Block 15 on the interwebs but I'm not having much luck. Does anyone have a photo of this area? Or access to the Modern Viper book by Jake Melampy that shows this spot? Some help would be much appreciated. Thanks Dan
  2. Love the subtle weathering. Those grey jets can really come to life when you do the airbrushing well and add natural variation in color.
  3. Beautiful paint job there, what country does this scheme?
  4. I've used salt weathering before, Chuck Sawyer (Chuck540z3) has a great article on his technique. I've had similar problems to what you describe. Are you using acrylic paint for all the work? I recommend a really tough durable base like lacquer and then using acrylics on top of it. Some people put a clear coat on to protect the paint work a little too before applying the salt effects. Try using thinner paint and do it light passes or mists to prevent it laying thickly over the salt thereby entrapping it. Hope this helps.
  5. Filling it various panels, sanding off the circular antenna on the top of the fuselage, NSI inlet, P&W exhaust nozzle, smaller landing gear parts, earlier sidewinder rails, True Details F-16 cockpit, F-16A tail, etc. I didn't know that about the gun, I always thought they removed it to save weight? (Maybe I'm thinking of the A-4....) anyhow good to know before its all closed up.
  6. I used the KASL hobby 1/32 F-16A tail, however it was designed for aircraft using the parabrake housing and some portions of the tail were different than the Block 15 F-16As used for this aggressor. So I attached the main pieces for the kit vertical stabilizer and cut off the portion I needed, looking back I should've taped it or cut the portion and then filed it down to fit the KASL part but I was able to make it work with some CA glue, accelerator, and sanding/blending to make it look pretty good. Here's the finished (can't rem
  7. Here's some photos of the recent progress, I've been on "staycation" for the past week or so that allowed me to really accelerate the work required for this project (there's quite a bit involved in all of it). I won't be displaying it with the gun port off but since the Aggressors don't have the gun loaded my OCD got the better of me and I decided to detail up the empty gun bay a little more. There's another shot of the front fan face and intake ramp Here's the completed cockpit, luckily using an electric drill made the job of sanding/filing much easier
  8. There's a point where the horizontal stabilators attach to the fuselage that has several "panel lines" where various pieces meet up. Now mind you most of this won't show once they're attached, but I was wondering are these on the real aircraft or do they need to filled and sanded over? Thanks Dan
  9. 4/6/17: Not too much to update, been cutting more blocks of resin and I'm going to wait until I have some better photos of the exhausts with some paint on them but the fit is really good if you go slowly and carefully, which I admit are my least favorite modeling tasks. I gave the Stynylrez white primer a try for the white parts and I'm really liking this stuff. Some of the resin pieces have tiny little holes (pitting) in some of the pieces and I was worried about this new stuff not working too well and having adhesion issues. I was wrong. This new Stynylrez primer is fantastic, its self-
  10. Very nicely done, I thought the weathering was nice and subtle. Capturing the weathering these MiG-25s get can be tricky but you really nailed it. Solid work on the conversion.
  11. So this will be my first work-in-progress, it's going to be a 1/32 Tamiya F-16CJ kit, converted into the F-16A 3-tone Grey Aggressor used the NSAWC for training with the GT Resin NSI inlet, exhaust, as well as parts for the smaller gear and non-bulged doors, KASL F-16A tail (modified to remove the parabrake housing), Two Bobs F-16A Aggressor decals, and True details F-16A cockpit. Love this camouflage scheme for Black 56, and all the touch-ups and fading on it will make for some good airbrushing fun. Here's the cockpit to start and then with the back area removed
  12. What's the preferred type of CA? Thin, med, or thick? What would you say would be a good ratio (ball park?) Dan
  13. So I've recently re-discovered milliput and thought this stuff could have some wonderful application to filling seams and gaps, especially along fuselage halves, while my current project is curing overnight for an F-16A cockpit I thought I would ask see just how strong this stuff cures to? Can you easily re-scribe panel lines with milliput? My usual go-to for filling is cyanoacrylate with accelerator but it dries SO hard that unless you have almost the perfect size for the gap it takes a long time to properly sand down, but it holds up well to scribing and fixes. Thanks
  14. I feel like it must've been been an old enamel wash that I had kept, cause I remember dragging it out of one of the drawers and putting it on the shelf and thinking in the back of my mind like it was an old enamel wash. I was able to salvage it, and it just looks like a weathered helicopter, it'll do. But I guess the lesson is always just take the few seconds to mix up a fresh oil wash to be safe. Thanks for the input though. Dan
  15. So yesterday I had prepped a helicopter I've been working on as I usually do, mr color primer, model master and tamiya acrylics, with a coat of tamiya clear. Then on went the decals, waited a couple days, and sealed the decals with another layer of tamiya clear. Nothing new. I went to put what I believe was an oil wash, but it might have been an old enamel wash or an old oil wash (but I didn't detect the distinct odor of enamel thinner, I added a little more oil paint to it and then thinned it with mineral spirits. I applied the wash, and then went on to work on another project for maybe
  16. I was able to find a photo of the top of the rotor (slightly blurred) but it does appear to be a darker color than the Light Ghost Grey, as someone mentioned here its an opaque coating and understandably would get pretty dirty from use and probably causes the underlying paint to appear a darker shade as such, I decided to wing it (I suppose rotor t? is more appropriate) that one was REALLY bad I know, and just used Dark Gull Grey which looked good enough for me. Thanks for all the help though everyone! Dan
  17. Here's one, the problem is I can't tell if its just a continuation of the paint on the top of the rotor, or a separate coating, and if someone knows the answer if its a separate coating just an approximate color of it, like a darker grey, or light brownish (think Tamiya Buff).
  18. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  19. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  20. Kind similar to the real cost of the plane? :-)
  21. I know some blocks of resin just simply need to be cut with a saw manually, but for grinding and fitting does the dremel make it easier (in some instances obviously)? Thoughts? Dan
  22. One thing maybe some of the F-16 experts out there can help answer. I've noticed a lot of the F-16C Block 50/52 usually the one's assigned to "Wild Weasel" missions have a portion of the vertical stabilizer attachment that looks like a lighter shade of grey, maybe FS 36375, compared to the other medium grey FS 36270, although it could just be a fresh coat of paint? Any thoughts?
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