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spaceman

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  1. Back to the Beginning of NASA's Space Shuttle Program Tribute to Challenger's Maiden Flight - STS-6 L-R: Donald Peterson †, Paul Weitz †, Story Musgrave, Karol Bobko Source: wikipedia.org Now it is time for presentation my Launch Pad 39A-Project in the ARC forum and I hope you'll be interested in. To the prehistory: After conclusion the NASA Shuttle program last summer with the last Atlantis-Mission (STS-135), I dedicate my first real space modeling project to the beginning the legendary space shuttle era before more than 30 years. I was inspired to this major project by similar space modeling projects in the German forum Raumcon. I decided for the STS-6-Mission with the Challenger (04.04.1983) as guidance version for my build, because I would like to build the tower version from the initial years of shuttle era with the red lattice windows and the partial red FSS grating structure inclusive hammerhead crane, which fascinated me somehow. The following picture shows the Challenger during the roll-out in the fog on their way to the Launch PAD 39A, source: NASA as well as with the lift-off to the STS-6-Mission. source: NASA To the project: To be built is the Launch Pad 39A with Launch tower, Shuttle stack, as well as Mobile launcher platform (MLP) and Crawler transporter (CT). Basic module for my project is thereby the Revell kit 4911 in scale 1:144“, in quotation marks and red, because one already is thereby for the cardinal problem of the actually mad Revell kit, the scale dilemma, to which one could be written its own chapter and said therefore some more must. For the addition of the launch tower FSS I procured myself the Detail Kits von LVM Studios. Since I decided for the STS-6-Mission with the Challenger, with the Detail kits of LVM one can represent thereby the elevator shaft of the tower in the original building technique with the red lattice windows, as it in the early years the shuttle era looked quite. In addition Detail kit No. 1 contains parts for the complete staircase in the tower, which is completely missing with Revell's 4910/4911. The LVM kits contain photo etched parts (PE) from thin brass sheet metal, with which very finely detailed structures can be produced as well known. For building MLP and Crawler I use cardboard-model kits by David Maier from EDU-Craft Deversions on scale 1:144. The kits consist in each case of 13 colored building sheets of cardboard (27.5 cm x 42.5 cm) as well as a building guidance on CD-ROM. To the scale problem: As most of you will know, Revell kit 4911 is seriously underscale and not true to scale 1:144, which lead inevitably to problems with the building. Therefore one has two possibilities, if one liked to use the Revell kit. Either one builds the kit Out Of Box (OOB), because in such a way the building groups FSS, RSS, shuttle stack and MLP fit to each other from the size, only stop is not everything on a scale 1:144, but only shuttle stack. Or one is compelling by partial scale adjustment to compromises and to scratch building, if one liked itself to orient halfway at the original. Of course one can do the build also without the Revell kit by overall scratch building. As way out of the scale dilemma I decided for a compromise settlement. Therefore I made myself first of all own assembly drawings, in order to receive a better overview. Starting point for my considerations was the following design of Gold Member Halbtoter in Raumfahrer.net forum, which shows a comparison between the Revell kit 4911 and the FSS/RSS in the true scale 1:144. source: Halbtoter The black design originates from the Revell building guidance, and the version drawn by Halbtoter by original plans of NASA is red in 1:144. It becomes clear one when exact looking that the red MLP (1: 144) does not fit no more into the Revell RSS. Since this line tangle can confuse one first however and in addition the mini MLP of the Revell kit is not with drawn in, I made myself in addition the following designs: This design illustrates clearly the descriptive scale dilemma of the Revell kit 4911, if one would build all OOB. The serious error is evenly the much to small MLP (1:200!!!) of the Revell kit, which does not fit somehow at all the total proportions. In addition it comes that also the FSS Tower (RSS probably similar) is too low approx. 7,6 cm thereby only one scale of approx. 1:168 corresponds. The image quality must accept your stop, because there two transparency sheets lie one above the other. :o The next design shows now a comparison of the RSS/FSS with MLP in 1:144 (with me black!!!) and in contrast to the Revell conditions in 1:168 and/or 1:200 (red). Considering this awkward situation I came to careful consideration in the long run that one does not come with the scale around a compromise unfortunately around, if one liked to use at least the FSS and RSS as main components of the Revell kit. And in such a way now past planning for my project looks as compromise settlement, with which I will build MLP and Crawler in 1:160 and in addition FSS and RSS in the height are supplemented around approx. 3 cm. I hope now that the result will then contently place me also to some extent. So, now however enough the preface and thus finally to the building and to the first parts and pictures. First part of my project will be the MLP platform, for which I procured myself the cardboard model kit of EDU-Craft Diversions on a scale 1:144, with which one the MLP-2 used with the mission STS-6 can build. Since I will build however MLP and Crawler transporter on a scale 1:160, first I went with the 1:144 cardboard sheets into the copy shop to reduced it to 1:160. Here is a small selection from the 13 MLP sheets. The two following pictures show now what then from it is to become, the MLP, first without source: EDU-Craft Diversions and here at the same time with shuttle stack as impressive comparison with Revell's mini MLP. source: EDU-Craft Diversions And in my next post I will show you first pictures of my building site.
  2. Hello everybody, well then, let's start 2019 with fresh power and full motivation. In the old year I had still registered in the Dental laboratory ChiliDent for another ultrasonic cleaning, in order to clean the Early LWT Intertank (FUD) of the support wax. Last Friday I visited the Dental lab, wherefore I packed not only the IT but also all Track Shoes and Main Sprockets, in order to speak about their still pending cleaning. The cleaning in the ultrasonic bath took place again under the same conditions as the first time with TICKOPURR 60 (20 %) at approx. 70 °C, whereby I turned the flat lying IT every half hour by 180°. In the interim, I've read further in Scott Phillips's book Remove Before Flight, which I can really recommend because it's easy , and was even provided by the nice guys with espresso and fresh soda. Here is an image of the IT after 2 h cleaning, on which unfortunately one can not see too much, at least but so much, that still some areas remained with wax residues, so cleaning was continued for a total of 4 h. After that, the IT had adopted the familiar white color, which is generally a sign that all wax remains are removed and the IT is completely cleaned, which can be seen very nicely in these images. And with this result, I was then more than satisfied and could ride home after appointment for the next cleaning. And here are a few shots of the clean IT after my return, on which one also can recognize well the details of the Close-outs. And even in the provisionally installed state, the IT looks really good. Here again for comparison the uncleaned tank after Shapeways' delivery, which this time, unlike previous prints, had strangely felt rather oily, which I was wondering about. Now this IT really fits to the original Lightweight Tank (LWT) ET-8, as flown for the first time during STS-6, which finally satisfies me absolutely - All's well that ends well.
  3. Hello everybody, in November 2016, my friend Thomas had told me of his pre-Christmas stress with a Christmas present for his wife, which absolutely should become finished before Christmas, which she had evidently been waiting for several years already ... After she had lived in London for a longer time, he wanted to surprise her with Revell's London Bus (1:24) as a remenbrance gift. Source: revell.de We got to know each other in our German Raumcon Forum, through our two Real Space Modeling projects. I'm building for years a model of the Space Shuttle Launch Pad 39A with Challenger STS-6 . And inspired by that he was building a similar model, the Space Shuttle Launch Complex 39A with Discovery STS-41D, for what we have constantly exchanged our experiences. But the completion of the bus project he had postponed over and over, because he was probably too busy with his beloved Launch pad ... And so it happened that he did not cope with it, because he had died in mid-2017 after a short, serious illness, which has shaken me a lot ... Therefore, his wife had asked me if I could not finish his bus, because supposedly only the outer decals (including advertisement, line, etc.) would be missing, which of course I could not refuse her. These are some pictures he had sent me at that time, what impressed me a lot, such as the Leyland Engine, which he was very proud of, as well as here in the engine compartment. Here is the underbody he was trying to age by using an oil paint washing, the staircase to the upper deck, the lower deck with its great seats, and here the driver's cab. And these were the assumed assemblies, including the remaining advertising decals for the body at the end of 2017. And about how it went on afterwards, I want to report in the following.
  4. Hello everyone, let's go on and try the same technique to the wheel rims. The overhanging foil was easy to separate off by holding the cutter blade at the outer verge of the ring and then slowly turning the wheel through step by step. But unfortunately, the inner verge did let not separate in the same way, because the cutter there has slipped away always and produced no clean cut. So I've modified the technique a bit by first cutting out a circle with the inner diameter of the ring with a cutting compass (but within a larger piece of foil), and then carefully placing this piece of foil with its hole onto the wheel rim. That was extremely tricky, because the foil is very thin and warps quickly when detached, but then with a steady hand I yet still succeeded finally and was happy. Then the overhanging foil was separated off as previously described, and after the foil ring was tenderly smoothed with my soft fingers and a Q-tip the result looked pretty good. So far for today, and thanks for still staying tuned.
  5. Thanks Jeff for looking in on me, yeah, it goes into the final round, I already can see the light at the end of the tunnel ...
  6. Hello everybody, in the same way, meanwhile I have also glued the windows of the lower deck into the body, and then all sliding windows on both sides were glued on. The installation of the lower deck with the complete chassis into the body was a similar difficult and stressful matter as with the upper deck and could be proceeded only slowly and very carefully, but has finally succeeded. Afterwards the inner connections between the chassis and the body were glued together in the same way as before with the upper deck. Thereby the hardest part of the job was done, and so I was able to turn to various decor details of the body. When looking at various photos, I've seen that there is a metal-colored guide rail on the driver's door, which is disregarded in Revell's construction manual. As a result, I've carefully removed the red paint there and painted it silvery. Source: londonseite.de Then there were still to paint and install the rearview mirrors and flashing lights, as well as the headlights on the hood and the taillights. For bordering of the lights as well as for the rings on the front wheel rims and the frame of the radiator grill, Source: londonseite.de I've used Chrome Bare-Metal Foil, but the application of which was not easy and required some practice. The trickiest part of it was the the bordering of the radiator grill, what one can see in the following images. At first I tried an application with narrow stripes, but what I've soon discarded, because this method is too complicated ... Then I've covered the entire grill surface with a foil piece, which was carefully pressed onto the grill, and then the contours were cut out with greatest cautiousness with a new cutter, and lastly all was gently smoothed using a toothpick and Q-tip. And with this result I was reasonably satisfied. Next will follow the rings on the wheel rims ...
  7. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Thanks Pete for the nice Tool show ...
  8. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Thanks guys, what that is, I also know, more helpful would be a link to the provider, but I think, that Pete can help ...
  9. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Hi Pete, what is this for a great tool, where did you get it?
  10. Hello everybody, the gluing of the upper deck in the body turned out to be the expected difficult matter, because it was very close, and especially at the rear end of the body the last inches could be pressed downwards only with difficulty, but still with the utmost care. Only then the inner connections between the upper deck and the body were glued together without ruffle or excitement ... So that all places glue together well, I have ballasted the body with two books and let dry everything for some time. Afterwards I have glued the cover onto the lower deck. Thanks for looking in.
  11. Hi Mike, the windows I have glued into the body some days before shipping, therefore I think, that the superglue had cured completely and there sould be no further fogging, hopefully ...
  12. Thanks Mike, then the panes should fog up no longer later, I hope ...
  13. Hi Mike, before packing the bus into the box for shipping, I've cleaned the windows again, after which they were shining. Then I have to ask Thomas' wife how the windows look meanwhile, otherwise she has to clean them once again ... BTW, how long does Micro Kristal Klear need to dry?
  14. Hi Mike, about this effect I did know nothing so far, do these fumes arise only as long as the superglue is liquid or even longer? Thanks Slartibartfast, good to know how to prevent this mishap.
  15. Thanks Mike for your tips on suitable window adhesives, I have also some of them in my stock, but I have used this superglue from Pattex, which worked well. First, I wanted to glue in the windows only in the upper deck, and then glue the upper deck with the seats into the body. Because the panes immediately have to fit exactly in the frame when gluing in with superglue, I've thought of a special method ... In order to be able to hold the panes when gluing in and simultaneously position exactly in the frame, I came up with this simple Tape-holder sitting on a piece of Balsa. For this I took up the liquid Pattex superglue with a paperclip and painted it into the window frame and then carefully pressed the pane by means of the Tape-holder into the frame, and then removed the holder softly. And this procedure has worked very well. Here one can see the body with the glued-in upper deck and the windows. Only the sliding windows are still missing, which will follow as next. That would get done and looks well so far.
  16. Hello everybody, yeah, to do it instantly better and more exactly is not tricky, if one knows, how the windos look actually. Accordingly, one should paint the strip with the latch on the large pane silver and for the sliding windows only the side guides, since the lower edge is frameless, and the upper edge in the closed state sits under the small roof and is invisible, as one can see clearly on this close-up. But afterwards one is always smarter ... Source: londonseite.de Strictly speaking, the lower window pane of all these windows, which can be opened, should only extend until just above the lower edge of the sliding window, which Revell probably did not carry out faithfully for reasons of an easier installation. And on this close-up one can see another window detail that looks a bit odd in the Revell kit, and also the decal is missing, which explains the window as an Emergency Exit. Source: londonseite.de On the photo one can see the inner locking device and the outer bolt handle. Since this window did not fit into the opening, I had to cut out the frame a little bit at the point of the handle and attach the handle additionally from the outside on the pane. With this knowledge, it should actually continue with the installation of the windows, but then there was the next unpleasant surprise. Unfortunately, during the test fitting of some windows, I realized that they did not fit exactly into the window openings, but were a bit too large. This was probably the consequence of multiple painting of the body, first with the Ferrari Red 34, and then with the clearcoat. Therefore, these windows had to be painstakingly sanded, until they did fit. In addition, I had to think carefully now in which order and with which adhesive I should the sensible windowpanes stick best into in the upper and lower deck, so as not to do any damage ...
  17. Hello everybody, and now to the windows of the Revell Kit, which take a little getting used to and gave me some puzzles in the beginning. Initially, I've only followed the construction manual and only later realized that the structure of the windows compared to the original contains some discrepancies and errors that were not considered in the construction reports known to me either. In addition to closed windows with a continuous window pane, there are also windows in the bus, the upper narrow part of which can be opened. These can be seen in the model based on the silver-colored frame, while the other windows should have black rubber seals, which can be seen in the following image. Although this shot looks like a real outdoor photo, it is a model skilfully photographed by the builder (Alex2410) against the backdrop. Source: britmodeller.com (Alex2410) Here is a model by Guido Kehder, which I personally like especially because of its clean modeling and amazing design, on which one can see these silver framed upper windows too. Source: die-leitplanke.de (Guido Kehder) If one takes a closer look at the kit's windows now and compare it with the construction manual, one will see that these windows consist of a pane that is glued into the window opening, onto which the narrow upper window section is glued then. This lower pane has a silver stripe (C), on which a fire-red latch (H) should sit, but this is not existing on any original photo, because these parts are also metallic. Since this silver strip comes to lie directly above the lower silver frame of the upper window when mounted, that somehow would look strange in my view, which is why on these windows I masked only the latch and painted it silver, which was quite plodding. On the occasion, some of the reordered small parts I still have painted by hand. In addition, I was more and more in stress, because I really wanted to finish the bus before Christmas, to be able to send him in time to Thomas' wife, wherefore haste was required. Only later I've seen on photos like this one with opened windows, that these windows are executed differently, which I have not corrected no longer however due to lack of time. Accordingly, the upper narrow parts are sliding windows that can be slid down after unlocking. Source: londonseite.de Thereto, how one can instantly do it better and more exactly, will to be seen in the next post.
  18. spaceman

    1/24 GEMINI 9A part 2

    Great compliment, Pete, that's scratch-building at highest level. These tiny parts to handle, is an absolute masterly performance, for which one needs a magic touch! I stay tuned, and keep it up ...
  19. Hello everybody, after comparing the construction manual page by page with the body, I had noticed, that some other small parts were still missing, which I've re-ordered from Revell and received again for free. These were on Sprue I several handles (127, 199), on Sprue K the wiper (159), the rear-view mirrors (181/182), as well as a small handle and the latch on the hood (200, 211), and on Sprue P the addition headlight in front left (156), the smaller handrail at the entrance (179), and the fuel tank cap (198). Next are the windows' turn, but there are some bugs in Revell's construction manual regarding their paintwork, which have become clearer to me only bit by bit ... which I will explain in the next post.
  20. Thanks for your good wishes, Jeff, and a Happy New Year to you too. Your intent does not sound bad, then just start, that's really an awesome model. In Germany we say: Don't be afraid of Large Animals!
  21. Hello everyone, now I will come to the next step, the sealing of the decals with clearcoat, but previously, I still had removed the opening for the installation of the radiator grill. As clearcoat I used an Acrylic Gloss Varnish from Vallejo (Spray can 400 ml), that my friend Heinz Wagner recommended me, which is known as an Airbrush Guru over here. So that the car body stands free during spraying, I've put it on a substructure made of styrofoam onto a turntable, and of course, the hood was also there. And then the car body was sprayed several times from all sides and from above, after which it looked like that, with I was very satisfied. Before I started with the windows, I wanted to try on the finished radiator grill, which already fits quite well, but behind it's planed to install still a cooler. Next, the installation of the many windows will follow, but for that I still had to study the construction manual more exactly as well as evaluate some original photos in details, because the windows chapter seems to be a tricky matter.
  22. Thanks my friends and a Happy New Year to you as well.
  23. Thanks Pete for your compliments, I wish you the same for 2019, especially best health, and hope that we will have a lot of fun together. Regarding Thomas' skills I fully agree with you, he did really an awesome job, truly very impressive ... That's why I want to try to continue it the same way.
  24. Happy New Year to all of you friends! I had the same idea and I'm in! There will be some awesome surprises ... Offical kick off of the 50th anniversary of the first Moon landing!
  25. Hello my friends, it will not be long now, and we are writing the year 2019. In this spirit, I would like to thank you for your faithful companionship and wish you all a Happy and healthy New Year. Cheers!!!
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