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Bushpounder

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  1. That model has been discontinued. They do have the Spad. Is there a company that specializes in WWI decals by chance? BP Don
  2. Hi, all. I don't build WWI, so I need to ask questions. I am looking for a 1/48 Spad (found two at Eduard - regular and late - don't know which I need) and a set of decals for Captain Eddie's Hat In The Ring aircraft. Doing a search, I'm not finding anything on the decals. I don't know what decal companies are hiding out there for WWI. Thanks for any help you may be able to share. BP Don
  3. Perfect!! Dust and red clay would be on the rockers. VERY nice work!! Adding Flash was a great idea, too!!! One almost has to detail the bottom of Duke models. Viewers usually saw the bottoms more than the tops of the cars!! Don
  4. Beautiful! I am currently building this kit, same markings. VERY nice job. Don
  5. VERY nice build! I build mine with the same look. In fact, I am building one right now! Don
  6. Here is their email - "Hi Don, We are sorry for the disappointment this has caused you. The International Military & Figure Enamels were discontinued due to the lack of support for them in the marketplace." Yes, it just may be the time to head down a different path as well. Those International colors contain my RLM colors, and my 109s won't look good in FS colors! ;) Don
  7. I just read a GREAT review on the Mission paint. I never heard of them until I saw it mentioned above in this thread (by you!). I may grab some to try on one plane and see how it goes. My son uses Vallejo, and it's not bad, but I am not sure I like it yet for my go-to future primary paint. This Mission paint, according to the review, is almost as good as lacquer, which I really liked to read! I appreciate the feedback! Don
  8. I wrote Testors about this. It took two weeks to get an answer back, but they did confirm the FS line is gone. First Floquil, now MM. I really don't want to go to acrylic! Too old school I guess. May have to! :( Don
  9. Enamels and lacquers are both solvent based. If you are going to go over top of either one with the other, you need to put a water-based (acrylic) coating between them. Why the wash is acting as a debonder, I have no idea. You can make up or buy water-based washes and not have to clear coat them, but I do anyhow. Washes can stain areas you don't want stained without the clear. Don
  10. Sorry, Zactoman. Don't know how I missed your post on the weights - picture and all!! I think I was scrolling too fast!! Can't wait! Don
  11. Back off on the lead just a tad!! LOL! Don
  12. Please leave us some room up front for some lead, OR include a lead piece for the cockpit so she isn't a tail sitter. There's a lot of tail and plane in back of those mains. Can't wait for this one!!! Looking good!!! Don
  13. Thanks for that, S K. I found an adapter from Paasche airbrush thread to 1/8 pipe, which is what that small trap is. I get water bad in the summer here, too, and like you, I mostly shoot enamel or lacquer. The trap I have does catch some water, but it all depends on the humidity what it does. The further along the line a trap is placed, the better it will catch the water as that compressed air is cooling and condensing during its travel in the hose. I think I am going to come out of the compressor with a 6' hose to my regulator / trap, then another 6' to the mini-trap / airbrush. That will give the air two opportunities to cool prior to the airbrush. I found some cool set ups where people used transmission coolers to cool the air. Brilliant! Don
  14. That's why I am going to go with the mini trap at the brush and I am also thinking of moving the regulator / main water trap midway between the compressor and the brush itself. That should get the air cooled down enough to condensate and accumulate before it hits my model! I need to find some shorter lines to do this. That is today's project. Thanks all! Don
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