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Bushpounder

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Posts posted by Bushpounder

  1. Hi, all. I don't build WWI, so I need to ask questions. I am looking for a 1/48 Spad (found two at Eduard - regular and late - don't know which I need) and a set of decals for Captain Eddie's Hat In The Ring aircraft. Doing a search, I'm not finding anything on the decals. I don't know what decal companies are hiding out there for WWI. Thanks for any help you may be able to share.

     

    BP Don 

  2. Perfect!! Dust and red clay would be on the rockers. VERY nice work!! Adding Flash was a great idea, too!!! One almost has to detail the bottom of Duke models. Viewers usually saw the bottoms more than the tops of the cars!!

     

    Don

  3. Here is their email -

    "Hi Don,

    We are sorry for the disappointment this has caused you. The International Military & Figure Enamels were discontinued due to the lack of support for them in the marketplace."

    Yes, it just may be the time to head down a different path as well. Those International colors contain my RLM colors, and my 109s won't look good in FS colors! ;)

     

    Don

  4. I just read a GREAT review on the Mission paint. I never heard of them until I saw it mentioned above in this thread (by you!). I may grab some to try on one plane and see how it goes. My son uses Vallejo, and it's not bad, but I am not sure I like it yet for my go-to future primary paint. This Mission paint, according to the review, is almost as good as lacquer, which I really liked to read! I appreciate the feedback!

     

    Don

     

  5. Enamels and lacquers are both solvent based. If you are going to go over top of either one with the other, you need to put a water-based (acrylic) coating between them. Why the wash is acting as a debonder, I have no idea. You can make up or buy water-based washes and not have to clear coat them, but I do anyhow. Washes can stain areas you don't want stained without the clear.

     

    Don 

  6. Please leave us some room up front for some lead, OR include a lead piece for the cockpit so she isn't a tail sitter. There's a lot of tail and plane in back of those mains. Can't wait for this one!!! Looking good!!!

     

    Don

  7. Thanks for that, S K. I found an adapter from Paasche airbrush thread to 1/8 pipe, which is what that small trap is. I get water bad in the summer here, too, and like you, I mostly shoot enamel or lacquer. The trap I have does catch some water, but it all depends on the humidity what it does. The further along the line a trap is placed, the better it will catch the water as that compressed air is cooling and condensing during its travel in the hose. I think I am going to come out of the compressor with a 6' hose to my regulator / trap, then another 6' to the mini-trap / airbrush. That will give the air two opportunities to cool prior to the airbrush. I found some cool set ups where people used transmission coolers to cool the air. Brilliant!

     

    Don

  8. That's why I am going to go with the mini trap at the brush and I am also thinking of moving the regulator / main water trap midway between the compressor and the brush itself. That should get the air cooled down enough to condensate and accumulate  before it hits my model! I need to find some shorter lines to do this. That is today's project. Thanks all!

     

    Don

  9. Hi all. I am running a Paasche DA400R Airbrush Compressor with a moisture trap right at the outlet and a 6' hose to the airbrush itself. I am still getting water at the gun after running for about 15 minutes or so. Is there a better way to set up this compressor / hose/ brush to cut down on the water? Should I run a hose from the compressor to the moisture trap and then come off of the moisture trap with a shorter hose to the airbrush? I am wondering if the warm, compressed air isn't cooling in the hose after the trap and then produces moisture as it nears the gun when it cools. Any thoughts? Thanks for any ideas.

     

    Don

  10. Hi, all. I did a search for 1/24 / 1/25 scale rails. The search came up with a few, most of them from 30+ years ago. Is anyone making any modern top fuel rails like Brittany Force or other modern day drivers drive? Any info would be appreciated!

     

    Don

  11. Not right now! LOL! My wife would KILL ME if I brought another kit in. I need to grab up some COBRA stuff before I do anymore kit buying. Thanks, and I do appreciate the offer. Glad to see some still exist!

     

    Don

  12. I hope someone gets into the detail parts business. I was ready to order some side guns for the Huey from Cobra, and they closed up. :( Anyone hear anything or know of anyone else who makes the side guns? Thanks!!

     

    Don

  13. Are these kits still available? Many of these are 50s - 60's kits, with, I am sure, a re-release at some point, but how long ago? I haven't seen these for YEARS! Still cool though!!

     

    Don

  14. Thanks, all. Yes, I know the gauge is for the wire. That's why this is a little tough. I usually buy the wiring kits with the colored wire and a small piece of boot material. I am looking for that boot material and figure if I can find the right size wire, the insulation would work fine. OD on it must be 1MM, whatever gauge that would insulate. I am guessing 26-28ish.

     

    Don

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