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About Poppop

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  1. Just did a check on paint4models and they list Revell's Luminous Orange (32125) as a match for FS29813... worth a try.
  2. The Caracal Decal instructions call for FS29813. This is Fluorescent Red-Orange and is very close to the pictures I have. However, only Testors makes a paint with that match (at least in my searches). It is enamel. They have discontinued making it and it is out of stock everywhere I searched except Sprue Brothers. I ordered one and it does look good. Duh... I just checked Sprue Brothers website and they are now out of stock! Testors and Vallejo makes one that is close.. FS28915 which is Fluorescent Red.. not the Red-Orange in FS29813. If you have the FS paint chips you can check the difference..and paint4models.com is another source for comparison. Good luck.. tell Testor's to get back in the game.
  3. OK... I did not disappear completely. Lots of distractions. But progress continues slowly. Remember I am building two of these.. the one I post pictures of is the first one and the test model if you will. Lessons learned are being applied to number 2 as well. Most of the time since my last post has been cleaning up seams, eliminating steps between parts (especially the forward and rear fuselage parts), rescribing, test fit, test fit, test fit. I am modeling the plane in the picture in Cal Taylor's book on page 282... outside the hangar at Leopoldville, Congo. Pilot was my friend Bob Ginn. Aircraft appears to have International Orange markings and has the nice shiny new aluminum finish. No white cap on the fuselage. I am going to use Alclad Airframe Aluminum ... so the plastic has been sanded and polished with Micro Mesh up to 12000. When you get a mirror like finish.. you are there. You all know that even the slightest swirl or scratch will show through. I have applied a base coat of Alclad Gloss Black on the underside of the wing as a test. I have just completed the International Orange and the black deicing boots and exhaust panels on the port side. Both are masked off in prep for the overall gloss black base coat. I figured it was time to show the beat up beast before it hopefully looks like a near new C-133. I would suggest priming, sanding, polishing the plastic before attaching the wings. That is how number 2 is taking shape. The nacelles get in the way of a easy finish when wings are attached. If I have done enough sanding and test fitting, the wings should attach with minimal effort to eliminate the attach point seams. The circular windows on the fuselage have been masked using Tamiya tape on very thin white plastic sheet and then Waldon's #3 punch (the #2 was used for the rearmost smaller window on both sides). Hopefully this makes some sense.. over and out for now.
  4. I know everyone knows.. but after some of this build I knows even better... test fit, test fit, test fit.... Do as much to the fuselage as you can before attaching the wings. Eliminate the seams and clean up the join between the forward and rear fuselage. I chose to close the loading doors at the rear. The old drill.. putty, sand, rescribe, prime.. check.. putty, sand, rescribe, prime, check .. and repeat until everything looks good. The main landing gear required a bit of work. The locator pins on the side of parts 4D, 6D, 9D, etc are not much help. They need to be bigger IMHO. I worked one gear well at a time. I finished the interior of the wells, and the other parts that go in with Alclad Dark Aluminum before assembling. Glue those side pieces in and then quickly check the fit of parts 1D and 2D to determine how close a fit you have. On both of my builds I had gaps which required shaving the outside of parts 4D, 6D, 9D, etc to get a good fit. All the parts moved a lot until the fit was good.. so check the alignment of the internal parts carefully after you get a good fit and before the glue sets. I used a punch set to prepare masks for the small windows in the fuselage... I attached them after wrestling with the gear and before attaching the wings. I used bare metal foil to mask the cockpit windows. I hope this makes sense... More in a couple days. wings, etc.
  5. Use a very small drill bit to open a starter hole and then sharp #11 blade and patience.. clean out the two openings on each gear leg.. does make a difference.
  6. And then we close it up and most disappears! Cockpit Closed.jfif
  7. I copied pictures of the instrument panel, navigators, and engineers panels. Resized and printed my own decals. While not absolutely accurate, they do make a real difference.. Problem is that most of it disappears after the fuselage is glued together.. but I know it is in there (sound familiar). I did go back and touch up the back wall around the navigator station, but forgot to get new pictures.. duh It will take several posts to get the pics uploaded. Cockpit 3.jfif
  8. OK.. where do I start? I was asked to build a second C-133 for a friend, so I am now doing both in tandem. And trying to see if the lessons from the first build help... YES they do. Will start with the wings that started this thread... the second build had the same issue... port wing had no nacelle gap.. starboard wing did. Filled with sheet plasticard, putty, sand, check, etc. Don't forget to open the intakes on the top of the nacelles... I found it easier to open before gluing the halves together. Nacelle Vents.jfif
  9. Been sidetracked for awhile... some abdominal surgery that was successful and things about 90% back to whatever normal is nowadays. I've spent most of the time I had working the nacelles... putty, sand, check, putty, sand, check, repeat as needed! Mine did need a bit of work and I hope to rescribe tomorrow and then should be ready to move on. I did finish most of the cockpit. Copied some pics from Cal Taylor's book and resized them and printed on decal paper to get some detail on the panels. Also waiting for a response from a very good friend who put many hours in the cockpit of the 133.. I doing 40144 that was part of the UN Congo mission. My friends picture of 40144 on page 282 of Cal's book outside the hangar at Leopoldville is my goal. Waiting to see if he remembers the color of the headrests and armrests. The pictues of the C-133 restored at Dover show red, but several other pictues I've found would suggest either gray or maybe black... will see. I will try to get some pictures in the next week or so.. I'm not the greatest photograper.
  10. There lays the problem.. they are not a vertical wall. Most of it is.. from the bottom of the nacelle to the lower edge of the wing... that's the part that does fit relatively snug. Then it angles back (looking at nacelle from the side).. and that is where the gap develops. Easier to insert a piece of plastic sheet than to try sanding.. and since both nacelles on the other wing do fit reasonably well, you would end up with nacelles of different sizes on the wings. I had already filled the gap when I started the pictures or I would have tried to get a side view.
  11. Not really.. the way the parts are designed it's only the very top of the nacelle that is causing the gap. The rest of it does mate snug against the wing. As I mentioned, the nacelles mate snug all the way on the port wing. As you can see from the pictures, there is still filing required to get a completely smooth nacelle.
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