Poppop

OK... the Tamiya kit has been on the shelf for awhile and it's time to move it to the bench. I would like to build the Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ and a Block 40 F-16C. I believe that I read some time ago that the Black Box cockpit set would do that, primarily by providing the WAR HUD. I have searched the web for an answer, but so far one has evaded me! Any one have any comments on the Black Box cockpit, or how to obtain the WAR HUD in particular? Thanks to all of you in advance! Charlie L.

Does anyone know where I can find color photos of Nieuport cockpits (preferably the 17)? Or, does anyone have guidance on the colors inside the cockpit? I have tracked down information on the fuselage walls, but nothing on the floor, seat, etc. Thanks in advance for your help! Charlie L.

On the D sprue there is a part D8 (at least on mine). I have compared it with part D7 several times and I'm sure there is a difference.... why would Tamiya provide both of them? But to my feeble eyes, I cannot tell the difference between them. I have looked at them side by side from every angle. So, maybe D8 will work instead of a whole new sprue? Or, someone can point out the differences?

Anyone have any experience using MM Metalizer Sealer over decals? I was wondering if it is "too hot" and may damage the decals. As usual, thanks to all in advance. Charlie

Any suggestions for blending colors using an airbrush? I do not need a soft demarcation line, rather I need to actually blend one color into another. On 1/48 scale, there isn't a lot of surface area to get this done. Thanks again in advance for any help! Charlie

Does anyone have any experience decalling over MM Metallizer Sealer? Thanks in advance! Charlie

Problem solved! I am building both a SB2U-2 and a SB2U-3 at the same time. For some reason I suspected that the problem might be related to that. It turns out that upon close inspection, the AM instruction sheets have the part numbers reversed for the cowling tops. The instructions for the -2 call for the part number for the -3, and vice versa. Dumb me... I followed the directions and was using the "wrong" upper cowling. A little cutting and prying removed the insert from the wrong cowling. It fits just fine in the correct cowling! Now on to some filling and sanding. Regards, Charl

A little hard to describe this issue, but I'll give it a try! I'm building the AM SB2U-2 Vindicator kit. Question is about the part that fits inside the air scoop on top of the cowl (I don't have the kit in front of me right now, but I think it's part number 115 or 116). I have searched for a picture that shows the placement of that part on a real airplane without success. The box art shows the front of the "V-shaped lip" on the part flush with the front of the scoop on the cowl. However, if you fit the part into the scoop opening, the "lip" is about halfway back inside the scoop. If any

Has anyone been in contact with Real Space Models in the past month or so? I have sent several emails with no response. Thanks, Charlie

Anyone have an FS number that is close to the yellow used for USN WWII life rafts and life vests? Thanks in advance, Charlie

I've started my AM SB2U-2 Vindicator. I'm wondering if anyone can confirm the areas of the aircraft that were covered in fabric? From reading and photos, the fuselage area behind the cockpit is definitely fabric. I "assume" the areas on the elevator, rudder and wing that have what appear to be "attachment strips" (my terminology) were also fabric? Thanks in advance for your time and responses. Regards, Charlie

Liberator24: Open this URL and then click on the "Spirit of Disneyland" link. (Sorry, couldn't get it paste as a direct link.. cut and paste!) http://www.alaskaair.com/as/www2/company/fleet/fleet.asp The blue is lighter than the blue in Donald's hat, etc. Any help is appreciated, even if it's only a comment! Regards, Charlie

Does anyone have any information on what "blue" Alaska Airlines used on their Disney 737? Regards, Charlie

Received my Accurate Minatures SB2U-2 Vindicator today, and Cybermodeler got it right. Contrary to what is posted on the Accurate Minatures web site (and repeated by suppliers like Squadron), there are no Eduard masks and no Barclay scheme info in the kit. I guess you can always order the Eduard masks seperately for approximately $8 USD. Disappointing! Charlie

Does anyone know of an on-line source for Skyline Models (specifically the new 737 kits) in the USA? Regards, Charlie

Thanks to everyone who replied. I was able to retrieve the sheet from the Eduard site. I had visited the site and was searching on "P 400" and "P400" instead of "P-400". My searches turned up nothing. And a search of 1/48 Limited Edition kits turned up nothing since the kit is now listed as "Cancelled". Now off to the airbrush. Thanks again!

Does anyone have a painting/decal instruction sheet from the Eduard 1/48 Air A Cutie kit (# 1110)? A scanned email copy would be fine, or if you want to mail I would appreciate that also. I have mislaid mine and have reached the painting stage. Attempts to get one directly from Eduard have been unsuccessful so far. Thanks in advance.... Charlie L.

Can Alclad's Black Base be used as a primer on brass photo-etch? Or should I apply the Alclad Primer, and then the Alclad Black Base, and then Alclad Aluminum? I'm trying to minimize the number of coats to preserve the detail. Thanks in advance for you response!

I need to apply MM Metalizer to some brass parts, and then mask off part of the surface with Tamiya tape. I will use Metalizer sealer before applying the tape. Does anyone have any experience masking over Metalizer? Is it likely to lift the Metalizer, and if so, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.... Charlie L.

I have rubbed dry transfers onto clear decal film, sealed it with a thin coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film and then used them on 1/48 aircraft. Worked just fine.

I love the different terminology used for the same products in different countries. Are mineral spirits the same as white spirits? TIA Charlie

I have been unable to master the airbrush and Seamless Suckers. I have tried too many times. I gave up and got myself a good quality 1/4" brush and Polly Scale Reefer White. I paint the insides with thin coats of paint, allowing a day between coats. The final result is a very good finish without brush marks. I finish it off with a several thin coats of semi-gloss clear.

I know this topic has been answered before, but a search doesn't turn up the replies. I'm trying to remove some large decals and not having any real success. I have tried the masking tape (even went out and bought a new roll of "high adhesive" tape). Placed in on the decals and pulled quickly. Almost no decal came with it! These suckers are really sticking to the Future surface. I would like to retain the painted and Future'd finish under the decals. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!