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About as205

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  1. I've got the additional stringers added. Below is a shot of the work in progress. They are .3mm styrene rod glued on with Plasti-zap CA. It doesn't set quite as fast as thin CA, so I've got a few seconds to get them lined up properly. I use long strips to give me plenty of area to get my fat fingers in there to place them properly. After the CA sets then I can just snip them off with my X-acto. In the picture you can barely (on the right quadrant) see the that the depression for the systems tunnel is filled. I used some styrene sheet and then filler putty. I'm using the Airfix interstage. The Monogram interstage has a taper that is too big for me to ignore. The Airfix part is more straight. I've also removed the four ulage motors and the extensions of the second stage detail that appear on the interstage. I've got some filling and rescribing to do on this part. Here are a couple of shots of the S-IC. It is mostly done. Just need to do some filling where the systems tunnel from the main body meets the aft skirt. I've added all the PE to the S-IC. Both the aft skirt and the main body are from the Airfix kit. I'm now starting on the S-II stage. I'll be using the Monogram part for this. Since I have to remove all the molded on details anyway, I thought I'd use the Monogram part since it does not have that huge hump at the seam line in the stringer sections. At this point I've removed all the molded on details. I will have to remove some of the molded on stringers on the forward and aft stringer sections. They are too long. Time to make some measurements. I've also removed the resin parts from their pour plugs. I'm amazed that I didn't break any of them while removing the plugs. More to come... Randy
  2. as205

    Revell 1/96 Apollo Saturn V

    Let me add my vote to the list. That would be great. I've got a couple in the stash that could use the info. Thanks. Randy
  3. I've got all the PE attached to the aft skirt. Now I need to add in the missing stringers on the fairings and fill the slot for the systems tunnel. I will be using the systems tunnel from the Monogram kit since it is longer and comes closest the proper length, therefore I need to fill the slot. Here is a shot of one side with the PE and air scoops. You can also see the brass rod extending through the top of the skirt. I used some JB Weld to help hold it in place. The resin fins are from the New-Ware set and are just friction fitted to see how they look. I'll wait to actually install them until it is painted. Here it is rotated 90 degrees to show one of the sides where the stringer had to be rescribed after removing the large hump. Here is a view of the bottom with the brass heat shield in place. You can see the small amount of brass tube protruding that will be used to locate the center engine. That's it for now. Time to get back to adding the missing stringers. Randy
  4. Pete, Exactly. Building is most fun. Finishing and painting is where I usually get bogged down too. I've been known to have a build sit for weeks while I procrastinate over masking the model. Randy
  5. Wow. I've never been brave enough to overhaul a built kit. As my dad used to say "you're making a silk purse out of a sow's ear". He used to be a pig farmer. Fantastic job. I can't wait to see how this turns out. Randy
  6. Habu2, Thanks for the pointer. I studied the same pictures and came to a similar conclusion. By the time I noticed it I'd already started modifying the parts. At this scale I can live with the difference. Any bigger scale and I would definitely be adding the proper detail. I figured that rather get bogged down with my boo boo I'd be happier finishing the build. Most people who will see the model (other than me) will never notice the mistake. I'm fine with that. Randy
  7. as205

    Man in Space Saturn V

    Like Pete said, apollosaturn.com is a good resource. I've been using the David Weeks 1/48 scale drawings from RealSpace Models, but they will set you back $60 bucks. However, I have found that they are worth every penny! Also, the National Association of Rocketry (NAR) has a smaller set of Saturn V drawings on a flash drive for $20. It isn't as detailed as the David Weeks drawings, but most of the location/orientation things you need should be there, especially at 1/200 scale. You can find them on NAR.org by clicking on NAR Products and then on "secure online store", then on "Scale Data". The Saturn V drawings are near the bottom of the Scale Data page. Randy
  8. Since I am using the New-Ware batted nozzles I needed to remove all the detail from the Airfix heat shield. That got me to thinking about how I was going to attach the model to my display base. I'll be putting a 1/8 in brass tube in the center and drilling a hole through the center engine so I can run a steel rod up into the brass tube. That should make it stable enough to stand up. I used a similar technique on my 1/144 STS-31 Shuttle model. I ran a tube up each of the SRB's and it slides down onto two steel rods. It holds up very well and stands straight without having to prop up the orbiter. I added a couple of cardboard tubes to the back side of the heat shield and filled them with epoxy. Once that had set, I drilled through the center and through the top of the Aft Skirt. I used JB Weld to attach the brass rod. It sticks out a bit less than a quarter of an inch on the bottom to aid in mounting the center engine. I'll have about four inches of brass rod for stability. While I was at it I also epoxyed in some 1/8 in styrene tubes to act as mounting points for the outboard engines. I drilled through the center engine to pass the steel rod into the brass tube. New-Ware had a small raised area that fit the holes in the brass heat shield but they were small and ill defined, that was why I added the styrene rods and drilled a locator hole in the top of each engine. I test fitted the New-Ware brass heat shield and my holes lined up well. I also test fitted a couple of the engines to be sure my styrene rods were OK. I've also started adding the brass details to Aft Skirt. Onward and upward. Randy
  9. as205

    Man in Space Saturn V

    Nice. I've got a few of those in my stash. One day I hope to do a 1/200 scale set from Redstone to Shuttle. I your rescribed ribs on the interstage look pretty good to me. Randy
  10. I've started with the S-IC aft skirt. I'm using the Airfix and New-Ware parts for this. The New-Ware parts for the air scoops on the engine fairings were cast as recessed items and they are not. They are flush with fairing. So I decided to cut the scoops out of the resin part and glue them to some sheet styrene that I have added to the fairings. (Edited: Looking at some more photos, it appears that the scoops were actually slightly recessed from the surface of the fairings. My David Weeks drawings appeared to show flush scoops. Even though they were recessed they did have raised portions that projected from the fairing. The New-Ware parts are missing the raised portions. In the end I decided that I preferred the look with the raised scoops and I will forgo the recessed part.) Here you can see what the Airfix part looks like out of the box. And this is what it looks like after the sheet styrene. I'll extend the raised lines on the fairings into the sheet styrene areas with some .3mm rods after I add the scoops. Here you can see the New-Ware parts on their pour plug. You can also see one cut off the plug and how the part looks ready to be added to the model. I just didn't like the recessed look, so I cut one out and I like that much better. I'll attach it later after I get them all cut out. Below is a look at all the parts that will be going into the aft skirt. One item not shown is the PE heat shield that will go on the Airfix part after all the details are removed from it. I'll be using the batted F1's that are in the New-Ware set. You can see where I have removed one from its pour plug. Some of the parts may look fuzzy but that is just my sloppiness. I got some resin dust on them while removing the engine pour plug. They are actually quite smooth. You can see that I have all of the scoops cut out and I've sanded the backs thinner before I attach them. New-Ware includes an extra set of two just in case, luckily I didn't need them. More to come. Randy
  11. I'll be building a 1/144 Saturn V using some combination of Monogram and Airfix parts. I also have the RealSpace Apollo spacecraft resin that will be added as well as the New-Ware Saturn V upgrade set. I have Space Model Systems decals for this build as well. I'm not going super detailed, but I do want to correct some of the big flaws. Now I need go get the boxes open and start attacking this project. Randy
  12. This is the first time that I have tried to post with a picture. Let's see: Hopefully picture shows above.
  13. as205

    Planned Builds

    My plan is to build a 1/144 Saturn V using parts from the Monogram and Airfix kits. I'll also be using the RealSpace CSM, LES and SLA resin set. I've also just received the New-Ware Saturn V upgrade set that I will also be using. At least that's the plan. Randy
  14. as205

    eBay Craziness

    Good grief, I've got four of each of those in my stash. If they sell for prices like that, maybe I ought to get rid of one or two. Sometimes people be crazy.
  15. I've been a reader of the ARC forums for a while but haven't posted much. But, I have just started a Saturn V build, so sure I'll join a group build. I voted in the poll in the General Discussion forum. I haven't built a Saturn V since I did the 1/200 AMT version years ago. I've got the Monogram and Airfix kits that I was thinking about bashing together along with the New Ware detail set. I did the Airfix Saturn IB a couple of years ago. I added the RealSpace Apollo spacecraft to it along with some scratch built details. I think it came out fairly well. I'm sure there is going to be a lot of plastic dust created with the Saturn V build.