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About as205

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    Tulsa, OK

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  1. Thanks, those details came out better than I expected. I've seen posts by another modeler that did the 1/32 scale one and he used brass wire. It looked beautiful. I didn't have any on hand of a proper size and I wasn't sure I could get the standoffs all drilled perfectly in line, so I used the styrene rods that I did have. They were a bit more forgiving than the brass rod would have been.
  2. Thanks Geoff. One day I may pull out the Special Hobby X-1A or the X-1E and give them a try.
  3. Davidf888: Sorry for the late reply. I purchased the stand from Amazon it was item "SkyMarks SKRWSTAND Large 4.5 x 3.5 inch Wood Stand For Large Body Airliner". Believe me, it took a lot of searching to find the right stand. When I originally bought it I thought I was going to have to buy a threaded insert to make it work. I was very pleased that it came with one. It was not advertised that it came with it. dekon70: Thanks for the kind words. It turned out better than I thought it would when I started.
  4. Pete, Yes, he definitely compensated me for the work. (More than I expected.) He is a high power rocketeer and a fan of the X-15, he is really into it. And, I agree, it is hard to imagine the upcoming generation doing something like this. Maybe the projects of SpaceX will inspire them.
  5. Thanks, crackerjazz. Yes, this was a build that I finished back in September (started in May), I just never got around to posting the build until now. Thanks on the info about the weathering masters. I'll try that next time.
  6. Thanks, I wasn't sure about it until it actually went down. There was just enough difference between Tamiya NATO Black and the Vallejo Black Gray. I forgot to mention that I did add a light rub of Tamiya Weathering Master Gunmetal on a few panels but it just about disappeared with the matte coat.
  7. This is the home stretch on the build. Just a few minor things to do. First was to finally remove the masking from the underside of the plane. There was very little bleed from the black over spray. It was easily touched up. You can also see that at this point I’ve added the two underside antennas. I left the masking over the screw hole so that the upcoming clear coats will not gum up the threads. There is also some small rectangles of masking tape that are covering the area around the alignment holes for the external tanks. Those will provide a glue surface between the exte
  8. I started painting by covering part of the bottom area with Vallejo White from the ventral stabilizer and up to the nose gear door. Then another white area from wing tip to wing tip near the flap hinge line. I then masked off exactly where I needed the white stripes to go. I used 1/8 inch wide tape for the wingtip to wingtip stripe and two strips of 6mm tape slightly overlapped for the stripe from the ventral fin to the nose gear door. With that done I sprayed the model with a base coat of Tamiya NATO Black. I decided to mask off some of the panels to paint
  9. Back on the X-15 itself, I glued on the dorsal fin/rudder with Tenax. There is a gap that will have to be filled where the fin meets the fuselage, but it is not too bad. I also glued on the resin helium tank box. It will require a bit of filler to make it properly meet up with the air brakes. There are also a few small pinholes on one side that will need filling. I then glued on the ventral fin. It too has a gap at the fin/fuselage joint that will need filling. It also had a much larger gap at the base of the air brake on the right side. I couldn’t use fille
  10. I wrestled with how to get the piping painted without messing up the paint underneath for a while. Trying to mask it would have been a pain. Then a little synapse fired and I thought about brush painting the pipes with slips of paper slid underneath.
  11. I have the external tanks primed and the first color applied. If I was doing it again, I'd wait to install the resin part that represents the tank jettison rocket. I got ahead of myself and installed that before painting. I painted the rest of the tanks. All that is left is to paint on the final few details and then spray them with a clear coat prior to adding the decals to them. I’m sure that I will have to run a drill bit through the small holes to remove the bits of paint and clear coat so the 0.015 rod will pass through. The external tanks w
  12. Pete, The kit came with the resin parts. Much of the resin is for the ground dolly. I didn't build that since he wanted this to be an in-flight version. This version did not have any PE. Randy
  13. I’d been procrastinating on doing the windows for the cockpit. The windows have to be cut from a supplied square of clear plastic. I started by cutting out a rectangle of the approximate dimensions and then I carefully sanded the rectangle into an oval shape that will fit the openings in the cockpit canopy. It actually wasn’t as difficult as I was imagining. It did take a while to get a shape that fit, but careful sanding slowly created window that fit well into the opening. In the picture below if you look closely you can see the window in place. I used Plasti-Zap CA glue. It does not fog cle
  14. Habu2, Yes, I saw that post and it confirmed what I found in my reference material. Thanks.
  15. I moved on to the external fuel tanks. I glued them together and used a bit of filler putty to cover the seam. I also glued the pylons to the tanks. The standard model would pretty much have you stop there and have you add a few resin details. 1/48 scale is large enough to allow modeling of the piping that ran along the top of the tanks. The 1/32 scale kit includes the parts to do just that. For this model I needed to scratch build the piping. Beside the piping there were some standoffs that kept the pipes off the surface of the tanks along with some hardware that assisted with ej
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