Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Zombie_61

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 07/28/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern California
  1. Really Mike? All that time and effort, and that's what you come up with? Save yourself the embarassment of displaying that thing in your home--pack it all up and send it to me! :D Okay, seriously this time, that is truly a masterpiece! I've read and re-read this thread, so I knew it was going to be spectacular, but after seeing the results of your labors finally assembled as one piece I'm pretty much speechless...or perhaps awestruck would be a better word. And I have to agree with the statements that, if it was photographed under the right conditions (i.e., lighting and the proper background), you could easily convince almost anyone that it was the real deal. I could list every positive adjective in the book, and that still wouldn't adequately describe what I think of your build-up. Your attention to detail and paintwork are second to none, and you've really set the bar high for us ham-fisted modelers. Truly inspirational and aspirational!!! Al
  2. Y'know Mike, I look at the modifications you've made to your MLP, and all I can think is "Why couldn't Revell have done that?" Now, I've read and re-read your thread a number of times and I know how much work you've put into it, so I know the improvements you've shown in your photos look deceptively easy; believe me, I know better. And I'm sure Revell wanted to keep the costs down, keep the focus on the Shuttle Stack, blah, blah, blah, but I look at what you've done and can't help but wonder about what could have been. Needless to say (I hope), I'm blown away by the work you've put into this and the results you've achieved. Regardless of the compromises you've made (all of which were well-thought-out and reasonable, I might add), I think all but the most impossible-to-please, inflexible, anal-retentive rivet-counters would look at this and be very impressed, especially if they're familiar with this particular kit. Your work is truly inspiring and, as several have stated above, I'm really looking forward to seeing the completed build!!! Al
  3. Depending upon which length you believe to be accurate for the "JJprise" (1,200' vs. 2,379'), at 1:500 scale it would be approximately 2.4' or 4.75' long. Even 2.4' seems a bit large for a styrene kit with a price of 34.99 Euros. Now, if RoG is somehow proceeding under the assumption that this ship is roughly the same size as the Enterprise in the original series, at 1:500 scale the kit would be approximately 22" long, which sounds more reasonable. Al
  4. Most people probably wouldn't notice (or care about, for that matter) the extra work you put into this piece to make it more accurate, but a real Star Wars lunatic like me sure can appreciate the extra attention to detail! I think this is as good as it gets with the MPC kit. Seriously nice work!!! Al
  5. Y'know Mike, you and Manfred have really set the bar high for the rest of us when it comes to detailing such small-scale kits. I'm constantly amazed by the level of precise detail when I view your threads. Wonderful! Al
  6. Best. Scratch-build/accurization. Thread. Ever. I am constantly amazed at the level of detail you're able to achieve Manfred, especially in such a small scale. Simply incredible! Al
  7. There are also some recessed details on the outer surface of R2's "shoulders" set into a rectangular shape and two square shapes. Apparently, these change position from shot to shot as well; sometimes the rectangular recess is in the front and the squares are in the back, sometimes they're reversed. For us modelers, accurization occasionally means choosing which version we think looks best and running with it. :D Nice work! I'm taking notes so I'll know what needs to be "fixed" the next time I build one of these. ;) Al
  8. Regardless of the "compromises" you've had to make, your modifications have gone a loooooonnnnnngggggg way towards improving the heck out of the supplied MLP! If I have the patience to make half of the modifications you've made when I finally get around to building mine, I'll be happy. Al
  9. During the turn-around inspections they were definitely more focused on functionality than cosmetics, i.e. "We don't care how it looks, our priority is to make sure it and the crew get there and back safely." Interestingly, a Thiokol rep once told me they never had two fully functional shuttles at the same time; their focus was on making sure the one assigned to the next mission was sound, occasionally taking parts off of a shuttle that had just returned to put them on the shuttle that was on it's way to (or already on) the launch pad. Al
  10. Oh, right, I had forgotten about that. It looks like you've taken care of the problem regardless; good solution! Al
  11. Have you tried applying decals to a semi-gloss finish before? I've always heard you should apply decals to the glossiest surface possible to eliminate the possibility of silvering; semi-gloss might not be adequate. As for the decals themselves, even as a test print on paper they look terrific! Are you planning to build a pristine Orbiter, or are you planning to weather it? Al
  12. There's your problem right there. I've used spray cans exclusively throughout my model building career (more than 40 years now), and one thing I've learned is to build up your paint coats s-l-o-w-l-y using multiple light (and I do mean light) applications; if you miss a spot, and you will, cover it with the next coat. Also, always keep the can moving; never, ever, ever hold it in one spot. And, whether it's paint or primer, always heat the can before you spray. I soak mine in hot tap water for 5-10 minutes, shake them thoroughly (30-60 seconds), then spray. The heat does two things. First, it increases the pressure inside the can slightly. Second, it makes the paint slightly less viscous. Between the added pressure and the slightly thinner paint, it flows out of the can easier and lays down on the surface much smoother, which usually results in a better final finish. If it were my project, I'd strip the paint and start over. You might be able to sand it down, but you'd probably lose some surface detail in the process, either by accidentally sanding it off or by leaving it buried in paint because you didn't want to sand it off. For stripping paint I use a product called Purple Power that can be found in the automotive department of any Wal-Mart. Pour it into a container (preferably deep enough to immerse the entire kit) and let it soak overnight, then rinse it off with warm water. You can also scrub it with an old toothbrush if necessary. After you're done, pour it back into the container; you can reuse it several times before it becomes too contaminated with paint particulates to still be effective. Remember, it is a caustic chemical, so wear rubber gloves and eye protection to avoid contact if you decide to use it. Hope this helps! Al
  13. Meh. The tile detail is far too obvious for the scale. I'm kidding, of course. These eggplane kits are fun right out of the box, but you've taken it to an entirely new level! The way the Orbiter is "casually" holding the satellite cracks me up. Really nice work! Al
  14. I know exactly what you mean. I don't own an airbrush, so I've had to get pretty creative with masking tape and stencils at times. Time consuming, to be sure, but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and do what needs to be done if you want it done right. Al
  15. Now that's what I call paying attention to detail, expecially since only the die-hard fans know about it. Speaking of which, your Errant Venture is flawless! It's hard to believe it started out as the AMT/Ertl kit. I've seen build-ups of the kit that were greatly improved with some creative scratchbuilding and aftermarket parts, but yours definitely tops the list! Al
  • Create New...