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Hotdog

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About Hotdog

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    Not just one of them hotdog pilots, THE hotdog man himself
  • Birthday August 18

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    http://www.facebook.com/hdmodelworks

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    Male
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    Tennessee
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    IN THE STASH (unbuilt)...

    1:32 SpecialHobby X-15A-2
    1:48 Revell Mercury & Gemini Capsules
    1:48 Fantastic Plastic Manned Orbiting Lab
    1:72 Monogram SR-71 Blackbird
    1:72 Monogram Space Shuttle
    1:72 Dragon Saturn V
    1:100 MPC Titan IIIC
    1:144 Airfix Saturn IB
    1:200 AMT Saturn V
    1:200 AMT Man In Space Rocket Collection
    1:200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle w/ Boosters
    1:200 Revell Space Shuttle

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  1. Another alternative would be Niart17's 3D printed SSME's in 1/144. https://www.shapeways.com/product/MVGLP482R/1-144-scale-space-shuttle-ssme?optionId=42883260
  2. Manfred, The WSF might be the way to go. As you know, the ET is not smooth. It has a foam texture. So maybe the WSF intertank, once you have it covered in filler primer and all the final coats of paint, might be perfect. No need for the FUD to be smooth and wax-free then. Plus, WSF is cheaper! I'll be watching to see what you end up going with.
  3. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    Once they are finished and tested on my model, yes I will offer them. Stay tuned to this thread.
  4. It's not coming along LOL. It's going in my stash until I can finish the 5 other builds I have in progress first :)
  5. This is awesome!!!! Fantastic work! I would advise against trying to sand the White Strong & Flexible material. It's like a fabric, and will only shred, not making the surface any smoother. Your best bet is to spray it with a coat or two of Rustoleum Filler Primer and then sand, or brush the surface with Smooth-On XTC 3D. Come to think of it, the fabric-like surface might be just what you want, considering that the non-tiled surfaces of the nose are covered in thermal blankets. Can't wait to see how the parts come out.
  6. Today the postman brought me the 1/48 scale Collect-Aire X-20 DynaSoar. This is a rare and elusive kit that I've been trying to get my hands on for several years, and now I finally have it! I'm very tempted to halt all of my current projects and immediately start building it, but instead I will for now do a brief review of the kit now that I'm seeing it close-up for the first time. The box is dated 1990, but looks a lot newer. Everything is in fantastic shape, as if it was made just yesterday. The sales slip inside is dated 2007, so I'm guessing this is one of the later re-issues. The decal sheet appears to be in great shape. Here are all the parts you get. Five resin parts, an optional clear vacu-formed canopy, and a bunch of metal pieces. The DynaSoar is one big solid block of resin. I'm guessing it weighs about 5 pounds! I doubt the kit landing skids alone will be enough to hold this thing up. I'll probably have to consider using some type of clear support beam underneath when it comes time to display this thing. The resin parts include the rear bulkhead, instrument panel, canopy, and heat shield. There is an optional clear vacu-formed canopy, but you'd have to cut a hole in the top if you wanted to show the hatch open. That might be the way to go, seeing as how the hatch in the resin canopy is too narrow and would need to be widened. The metal parts are for the landing skids, doors, hatch and ejection seat. There's also a tall, skinny pilot figure who looks like he is about 7' 2" and could play in the NBA. The shapes of the rear doors are inaccurate, the the forward door is completely wrong. These will have to be re-done with styrene sheet. The shape of the bird is very, very close! The length and overall profile of the vehicle is correct. The vertical fins will have to be sanded to shape, as they're a bit too rounded off. There's plenty of flash to clean up, and there are panel lines that are incomplete or missing (mostly on the nose, flaps and fins). The bottom of the X-20 has plenty of pin holes that will need to be filled. The pattern of panel lines is totally incorrect, but probably not worth the effort to rescribe since the bottom will not be visible when displayed. The rear landing skid bays are too wide, and the forward compartment is the wrong shape entirely. Despite its flaws, this is still an awesome kit! One that I'm sure will be a lot of fun to build.
  7. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    Here's how the orbiter looks after getting her primer coat. I went with Tamiya Light Gray to help even out the contrast of the black and white plastic the kit was molded in. The primer made visible a few very small spots on the surface I'll have to fill in before I begin the final painting. So this is where I'm at so far. Thanks for looking!
  8. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    The next 7-and-a-half hours were spent filling in all of the unnecessary or inaccurate details, filling gaps, and sanding seams in preparation for the primer coat. Here's how she looked just before getting hit with primer. You can see in the last image where I had actually gone ahead and sprayed the belly with white. This is because of the awful way they made this kit, using both white and black colored plastic. I could not see the details good enough to trace the pattern for the belly decal, so I gave it a shot of white so I could see it better. The black you see is from heavy sanding after the fact. I've also begun the tedious task of detailing the SSME nozzles with these tiny bits of wire! I have only succeeded in finishing the details for one nozzle, despite having cut and shaped enough wire for two. Working at this micro-scale requires perfect precision, and I managed to drop a few of these into the carpet, never to be found again. I suppose I'll keep making them until I get all three nozzles finished.
  9. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    DAYS 5-6 9.25 hours 21.75 hours total Build cost to date: $47.32 While crowe-t had the ET for painting, I began the grueling task of cleaning up the SRB's. It took four hours to remove what was left of the attachment ribs, and sand and smooth out the seams. What makes the boosters such a pain is the extra care you have to take in sanding between the o-rings so as not to remove them. In the image below is a comparison of the boosters. The one in the foreground has been cleaned up, the other has not. The remaining five-or-so hours was spent detailing the port side SRB. This included the careful addition of missing ring detail around the various booster segments, scratchbuilding the missing separation motors for the aft skirt, and making the flame curtain out of Milliput. The photo below shows the port SRB with the added details next to the bare kit SRB. I still need to add the bands of insulation that go around the aft o-rings, but after over 5 hours spent just adding these details, I was burned out! It was time to take a break from the SRB's and start on the orbiter. DAYS 7-10 11.5 hours 33.25 hours total Build cost to date: $59.33 It only took about 45 minutes to assemble the orbiter fuselage and wings. This was enough to get me started on creating my own decals. The image below shows me in the early stages of decal testing and creation. They will be photo-realistic, and will cover the entire body of the orbiter. Here is the modified vertical stabilizer. I used Milliput to add the drag chute compartment, and sanded the angle into the tip.
  10. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    Since I am not yet ready to invest in an airbrush and learn how to use it, I asked fellow ARC member crowe-t if he would paint the ET for me. I shipped it to him, and about a week later, he sent me photos of the amazing results! I was completely blown away by the job he did painting the tank for me.
  11. Hotdog

    1/200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle

    The aft end of the tank received a lot of detailing as well. In the image above, you can see where I added the manhole covers. I beefed up the attachment struts with some styrene tubing, and used a plastic toothpick for the crossmember. Styrene rod was used to add the ends of the feed lines, and a strip of styrene was wrapped around the circumference of the tank. There's a couple other bits in there as well. You can also see where I drilled out the holes for the rods that will eventually connect the SRBs. I added detail to the backside of the tank as well. These were also cut using the Silhouette cutter. Here is the tank, with all the details added and ready for paint!
  12. Somewhat recently I began building the 1/200 scale Hasegawa Space Shuttle kit, which I originally purchased in 2014. I'm building it to represent Atlantis STS-135, and will eventually display it with the rockets from the 1/200 AMT Man In Space kit. The orbiter comes very nicely detailed and will need very little work to make it look the part. The boosters and tank, on the other hand, are a different story. They are very basic and missing a lot of key features. The worst part is, the boosters and tank are molded together as one piece, fused together by these horribly inaccurate ribs! Yikes! What were they thinking?! DAYS 1-4 12.5 hours Starting build cost: $35.32 I began by cementing the two halves that make up the ET/SRB hodge-podge together. Once the cement was thoroughly dry, I sawed the SRBs off down the rib line to separate them from the ET. I sat the boosters aside and focused on the tank first. Here's how the stock kit tank looks after spending a few hours removing what was left of the ribs, filling the seams, and getting her all cleaned up. Now it was time to start adding details. I drew up a stringer wrap for the ET intertank, along with various other details, and used my Silhouette cutter to cut them into a sheet of .010" styrene. Here's an image of the intertank wrap going on. Some styrene strip was needed to extend the feed lines into the stringer area. It's not perfect, but still a big improvement over the bare surface of the kit plastic.
  13. I'm wondering if the wax could be melted off by dipping it in boiling or semi-boiling water? Maybe test it on one of the prototype intertanks.
  14. Hotdog

    My Dragon Saturn V build.

    Looking great so far, Bill! Have you seen the fairings that Michael Key has added recently to his Shapeways shop? I had asked him awhile back to make them for me, as I am attempting a similar 1/72 Dragon/3D printed Saturn V build. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/aerospaceplace?section=1%3A72+Scale+Dragon+Saturn+V+Upgrade+Parts&s=0
  15. Hotdog

    Space Shuttle tiles question

    Hi Liam, the 1/72 shuttle tiles are still a work in progress.
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