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About Hotdog

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    Not just one of them hotdog pilots, THE hotdog man himself
  • Birthday August 18

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    IN THE STASH (unbuilt)...

    1:32 SpecialHobby X-15A-2
    1:48 Revell Mercury & Gemini Capsules
    1:48 Fantastic Plastic Manned Orbiting Lab
    1:72 Monogram SR-71 Blackbird
    1:72 Monogram Space Shuttle
    1:72 Dragon Saturn V
    1:100 MPC Titan IIIC
    1:144 Airfix Saturn IB
    1:200 AMT Saturn V
    1:200 AMT Man In Space Rocket Collection
    1:200 Hasegawa Space Shuttle w/ Boosters
    1:200 Revell Space Shuttle

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  1. Pete, Were you able to get your printer issue resolved? If not, I can print them for you on my laser printer if you want. Let me know.
  2. Thank you for the nice comments! That's the part I got stuck at. I was really dreading tackling those seams (they seem impossible to me, as seams are my kryptonite), so I bought a RealSpace Saturn IB kit on eBay. My plan was to attempt to build the first stage from that kit instead and see if I could get a better result. I then got distracted by other projects. I'm hoping to get back to this build later in the year. I think the RealSpace kit is available again if you want to give it a shot. Good luck and be sure to post pics of your build!
  3. Yep, just be advised that those fairing and fin hoists are removed before flight :)
  4. Or, you can save yourself the time of re-inventing the wheel and buy the marvelous 3D-printed 1:144 scale parts by Michael Key
  5. The SIM books are awesome, but you'll want the David Weeks drawings if you're going to try and CAD them up. They can be purchased here:
  6. The New Ware detail set will get you most of what you need: The 3D printed parts were purchased before the New Ware detail set was available. You may decide that the New Ware parts are sufficient enough for your build. If not, you can go crazy like I did and purchase all the 3D printed parts below. APOLLO SPACECRAFT Command Module Boost Protective Cover Launch Escape System CM-SM Umbilical Connector Service Module Aft Heat Shield & Engine SECOND STAGE S-IVB Thrust Structure SLA/IU J-2 Engine FIRST STAGE Hold Down Struts (x2) H-1 Engines
  7. I feel your pain. I've been battling the same issue in planning my 1/72 Sat V build. I have all of the stringer wraps made and the heat shield file ready for Ponoko laser cutting, but i'm in the same spot on the engine fairings. Can you 3D-print one in really nice detail with all of the stringers and everything, then cast them and make resin copies? I'd do that, but I don't have your 3D skills, and I have no experience casting with resin.
  8. CultTVMan has it in his shop if you don't want to buy it from New Ware
  9. Don't forget the New Ware detail set. It's made for the Revell shuttle kit, but most of the parts should work on the Airfix.
  10. That's because they don't want to be responsible for the decal film coming off inside the printer and ruining the machine when you accidently print with the wrong settings. As you said, decal paper is 45# and heavy gloss is 52# so you can get away with it, you just have to be meticulous and be sure to get your print settings right. It's all about keeping that sheet of decal paper from getting too warm. Follow my guidelines above and use common sense with the mindset of keeping the paper cool and getting the sheet to go through the machine as fast as possible, and you'll be fine.
  11. Amazing work, thank you for sharing! Glad I could inspire you. Hopefully one day I'll dig mine back out and finish it. It's still boxed up from when I moved a couple years ago.
  12. You're welcome! Glad to be of help.
  13. I print them all the time with great results. I use a heavy duty office Xerox copier, model 700i. I use only high quality Beldecal brand laser decal paper. It costs a little more, but it runs good and never wrinkles or rips. The trick to printing model decals on a laser printer is to get the sheet through the printer as quick as possible, before the sheet gets too hot. Here's some tips on how to do that: Use a plain paper setting. Do not use the copier settings for labels, glossy or heavyweight stocks. These settings move the sheet at a slower speed to prevent jamming. Thin model decal sheets should run just fine on "plain" and never jam. Feed the paper through the bypass tray instead of one of the drawers. This helps cut down on the time the sheet is inside the printer. Use the "face up" print setting. This keeps the machine from flipping the paper over and running it through another set of rollers inside the copier, greatly speeding up the print time as well as preventing smudging while it's rolling along inside the printer. Turn the power off and let the printer cool down completely before running a decal sheet. Sometimes if I print a decal after my copier has been sitting "on" all day, I get smudging or flaking. If you try all of that and still get smudging, try putting the decal sheet in the fridge for awhile to cool before printing. That may help offset the heating problem.
  14. Very nice! I'll have to pick up one of these, too. Fingers crossed for the Titan.
  15. Wondering how you're going to make the wraps on your Silhouette cutter. I had thought about doing mine that way, but how would you handle the stringers? Will you be applying each one by hand?