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Mr. Engineer

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About Mr. Engineer

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    Canopy Polisher
  1. Hi, Skull Leader, the 1/100 scale looks do-able and if I am not mistaken, the overall height should be about 11 inches and so, the Solar panels are quite big. As I have not seen the model myself, here is my theory. Assuming the Solar panel is made of two pieces; one is the outer white piece and the other, could be a yellow clear part or a chromed gold part. So, my theory is, to get a lot of SMD yellow LEDs such as the 0805 and fix them on the inner edges of the white part. Then use the golden part as a template and cut out the shape from a clear yellow plastic sheet. Since the 'hole' pattern
  2. First, I must apologise for who those who are asking about the progress of this board. 2012 was not kind to me and so, I needed quite a lot of time to get back to where I was before everything went South. Its getting there and hopefully, good news will be announced soon. But as usual, don't hold your breath.... Anyway, here is a video which I have just uploaded.
  3. Woke up this morning and continued with the Plane. With everyone still asleep, I quickly cut out the silvery tint meant for the bottom of the acrylic. This time, I decided to cut out the square hole before applying the tint. Bad mistake. The tint is sticky and within minutes, I tore two corners. This time, I used a harder curved surface as squeegee and the bubbles was a lot less. Maybe, if I were to do this stand for another project, I'll leave it to the Professionals. To prevent the acrylic from scratching further, I punched some holes on these adhesive backed furniture foam pieces and
  4. I forgot to mention about the base's progress! Anyway, after two weeks of no activity, here I am again. I was a bit busy looking for work and also, working as a temp just to keep the bill collectors away. For the upper layer of the base, i opted for the dark tint to give it that solid shiny black look. So, this friendly chap got some for me at RM3.60 per feet. I got two feet just in case. I got the acrylic cut sometime ago too. The 8mm thick acrylic is nice and solid but like all acrylics, it is easy to get scratched. All I did was to tell them the thickness, gave them the piece of paper
  5. I just got this model kit from Modelland Workshop a few days ago. Although the pricing is a bit steep from a lot of feedbacks, then again, I suppose the only reason was the cost from licensing the characters from Disney. The model would be my very first Iron Man figure since I do not subscribe to Hot Toys despite the prices as in my previous job, I was shown how PVC,and vinyl deteriorates or breaks down over time. Or less than three years if you're unlucky. Anyway, I have plans on lighting it up but after looking at the figure, its going to be a bit of a problem. I will explain later on. Than
  6. @dsahling, Yeah, its very tricky. Thanks for the tips. Right now, I just came back from my temp job and there is no update. But I forgot to tell you that the base has came back to me, all nicely drilled I will take some pictures tomorrow as right now, its past midnight.
  7. @JMan Thanks. Unfortunately, time is not on my side and so, now I have to speed things up. Also, the weekend was hectic since I was juggling between looking for work and also, some slight problems with one of the two simultaneous electronic projects. No, make it three as my 1/9 Dragon Iron Man should be due tomorrow and I got the sound effects sorted out. Just can't decide if I want to use a light dependent resistor or an infra-red detector to activate them. So, I did nothing much over the weekend as I was busy with another dead project which suddenly, came back to life. Not only that, I wa
  8. @JMan Thanks. Its getting more and more difficult as the deadline looms and also I have to juggle my time with the Job Interviews and also, designing two new Lighting Systems for nuBSG models. So, Nothing happened over the weekend as I was looking for work. Unfortunately, this is the latest update. My 'extraordinary' airbrushing skills... I still do not have the hang of it yet. Now the Stealth Fighter looked more like some underwater sea creature. I still have not got the hang of getting the correct mixture for Mr. Surfacer Primer 1000. Its either too thin or too thick because the Airbru
  9. Tonight is very slow as I was late in coming out of the house due to some dinner issues. So, I only had time to spray the C-160 Cockpit floor and mask the F-117 canopy. You can tell I am starting to slip behind my schedule as I planned to complete the F-117 by the end of September, with its base and all. In actual fact, my original plan was to complete it BEFORE September so I can concentrate on the C-160.... sigh. This is my very first time doing masking. I only read about this in books and also from the Internet. I think I am doing this correctly. What I did was to tape the masking tape o
  10. Nothing much was done on the C-160 tonight despite my intentions. I was a bit late going there since I had to make sure my kid takes her dinner properly. Also, the whole evening was devoted to the F-117 instead. I am confused by the Assembly Manual which state to use Light Grey but from other reference photos, its not that kind of grey. So, I created a 20% matt black with 80% light grey mixture instead since I, uh, ran out of cash again. Yes, I think I overdid it. Tomorrow, I see if I can get some extra $$$ from the Wife and go for a proper Mr. Hobby Aqueous thinner for the wash... This
  11. Did nothing much today because I accidentally dropped the model part and the big side door broke. So, I am not in clear thinking mode. But in the meantime, I got some of my product ready. These are the circuit boards for the 1/32 Moebius Cylon Raider Lighting System which you can buy from Starship Modeller. If its out of stock, just click on the 'Pre-Order' and once I have made enough, I will ship it to John Lester. Just an experiment with Mr. Hobby Aqueos Black. I thinned it down with water and then did a wash over it. It was nice but once the water dried, the watermarks were horrible. As
  12. The LED master is great and from the mold, I think this is going to work out just fine. All I need to do now, is to perform test casting with the 2-part epoxy. So, when rayloke gave me these granules, I was amazed at its concept. Long ago, I bought some weird ones, which feels like custard except that after getting married and all that, I could not find it again. It was the same concept, which is to heat it until it melts and then you can use it as your mold. So, coming back to the granules again, the closest thing I can describe is the Shapelock as the properties of sticking to metal when me
  13. This morning, I have made the order for the acrylic shop to cut out the A4 acrylic sheet according to my specs and they should be ready by tomorrow (RM45.00). So, there is nothing I can do for the time being apart from buying some dark window tints (RM6.40) which costs RM3.60 for an area of 1ft x 2ft. They advised me to take double just in case and I believed them since I have never stuck these car window tints on plastic before. I also got the 4mm drill bit which helps me make the correct hole for the revolving LED light to come through. My idea is to encapsulate this in a clear resin. But
  14. Thanks, JMan. I just hope I can finish this in time too. Unfortunately, there is not much progress on the C-160 today as I was bugged by the F-117's Pilot helmet which was really my own stupid mistake. Its one of those days where your cover-ups made everything go stinky. With a few minutes left before closing time, I decided to airbrush some matt black onto the cockpit's floor. You can see that my hand/eye coordination is very poor and there is a sputter mark near the Pilot's seat. I think I will pretend its a coffee spill as I do not know how to remove this problem. <_< My airbrush
  15. After really looking at the helmet, it was really bad. I actually could not sleep last night. It just looked as if the pilot was wearing a loaf of bread. As advised by a member from my Local Forum, I am going to strip the paint off and paint it NATO blue.... Using the liquid mask again, I masked the visor and also the gas mask. This is all going to be very difficult as the pilot is glued very strongly to the seat which is glued very strongly to the cockpit which is glued very strongly to the plane. And I do not want to remove any of them as I know there is thin wiring underneath. Now
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