fool on the hill

I once wished to see builds of an F111 prototype in the gray white scheme. (so much more elegant than SEA camouflage) The response was quick. So build one! OK, so I've switched to 1/72 for modern jets and can now afford a passable F111. I read once the F111A prototypes were painted in gull gray, not Air Force (ADC?) gray. Might just as well paint it the right color. I've looked online, seen some bluish gray, some that Navy beige gray. The color difference might just be Kodachrome or Ektachrome film. Anybody out there really KNOW which color they were???

I need to print up some codes for a Spit XVIe. I know the USAF font is 'Amarillo' and I've downloaded and used it but does anybody know what font is used for WWII Brit fuselage codes and serial numbers?

Revell 1/48 F 14 - comes packed in gold nuggets? Revell 1:48 F-14D Super Tomcat Brand New $300.00 Buy It Now Free Shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-48-Spitfire-Mk-XVIe-Aircraft-NIB/390334701508?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

It happens to me often. My current solution is to put the thing away and come back to it later. Sometimes disasters later are just things to be fixed that don't seem near as catastrophic. My Achilles heel is using super glue that sticks to everything in a nanosecond - except the thing I'm trying to attach. ESPECIALLY GEAR DOORS !!! with their poor locating points.

I cruise the model listings on the bay regularly. I find neat stuff sometimes. BUT I often find ridiculous pricing too. I just saw a Monogram 1/48 Helldiver listed at $58.00! Are these people just really ill informed or do they do this deliberately to influence average pricing? ( I once had a boss who said he wanted to be the man selling $50 hot dogs. He said you won't sell many - but at $50 how many you gotta sell?)

http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABD-TC-18.html#.WYdiZrpFzIV I've been shopping recently myself. I'm looking into this unit. From what I've seen, some of the 'quiet' units are super expensive.

If you binge on 956's and 962's as I did for a while these might come in handy. Windshields, bodies, wheels & tires. seats, floor pans... all kinds of stuff.

The only place they're available is the Fujimi Carrera 2 or 928. I'll do wheels or a scrapped kit for parts. Need them to build my 1989 944 turbo S from the Hasegawa kit.

Thank you. I'm not having trouble finding the stuff, I'm recommending it. It is, however, an automotive specialty item. It's really 'hot' . I attached a plastic lab pipette to the nozzle with vinyl tape and after a couple days it melted the tape! P.S. Handsome woof!

Everybody's familiar with zinc chromate green but there's also (I think) a zinc chromate yellow. Where was it used?

Now that I'm retired I'm on a modeling binge. I've decided to build a Mosquito in an all black night fighter scheme and it's my first all black build. I need some tips on shading and weathering a black airframe. By the way, I've found a satin black paint that is exceptional. It's called 'BLACK SATIN' by Mar Hyde. It's an automotive coating for black auto trim. It's thin, so thin that any surface flaw shows through. It dries quickly. Only available in spray cans, but decanting is not that big a deal. It's available on the Bay or at many automotive outlets.

I incorrectly listed it as Hobby Boss and the site won't let me correct it. It's an auction, starting at a realistic price, but my listing mistake is keeping it from showing up in some searches. All parts bagged and still sealed, instructions and original decals for many nations. search 1/72 Caribou.

I'm a firm believer in using the mildest wash finish that works. The idea of ruining a finish by damaging it with an oil or solvent doesn't sit well with me. It still needs a thin gloss coat. Not fond of Future so I use Testors glosscoat. It's not needed to protect the paint, it's needed to even out the rough finish of dull paints so that they will not wick up the wash. My wash is made of a bit of lamp black water color from a tube, dissolved in tapwater, with a tiny drop of detergent. The detergent breaks the surface tension of the water so it disburses instead of collecting in droplets. Fina

Sounds to me like they're discontinuing the whole line, just one type at a time so they can sell off the back stock, then discontinue that line. I expect that eventually there will be a big clearance sale of the odd straggler stock - passion purple mango metal flake and dog poo sepia.

1) the plastic caps from most carbonated beverage plastic bottles kinda work as replacements for the metal lids on MM jars. You have to screw them down pretty tight - not death grip tight, but they must stretch a bit to seal. If they're not sealed, shaking the paint bottle is cause for nitrile gloves and blue language. They are cheap, however, and can be discarded and replaced regularly. 2) look these up on ebay 20pcs Sample Vials Clear Glass Bottles with Aluminum Caps Jars Small Bottle 5ml (item # 282498412470 ) Careful! 5ml is pretty small.

I've since discovered the difference between the two is the chemical reaction that cures the paint, so just using lacquer thinner is not a solution. That being said, I have years of experience using Model Master enamels with lacquer thinner and occasionally decanted rattle can lacquers. That's one variable I have pinned down with airbrush adjustments and thinning ratios andI'd just as soon stick with what I know.

'Instructions? I don't need no stinking instructions!' Well, I do. I am not moved to risk a $60.00 Tamiyagawaduard kit because I didn't know that had to go in before the wing was closed up. I've recently found Ludwig's Modeler's Library on the internet. Beyond my current praise, the pages can be saved and printed beautifully. I may print out some instructions that I have 'cause the downloaded sheets are larger and easier to read. Selling kits but no instructions? Here's the solution.

As a follow up ... about two weeks ago I received a full parts fret from Eduard with all the parts I'd requested. It took a while, but they came through for me. Thank you, Eduard!

I've just read on Britmodeller that the MM enamels are being discontinued. Is that true? Here in the US too? What is the difference in pigment between the acrylics and enamels? Obviously the carrier is different, but if I bought the acrylics and poured off most of the carrier when it settles, then thinned with my beloved lacquer thinner, how would it work? I suppose it's a long shot that anybody has tried that. I think I have a bottle of acrylic helo drab that I bought accidentally - I guess I'll try it.

Here's what I do. First, polish the canopy with automotive polish. Buff with a soft cloth. Mask and paint as others describe. When it's well dried, remove the masking. Now, if the paint has crossed past the mask, use a toothpick to chisel away the excess. The car polish will compromise the paint's ability to stick to the canopy and the paint will come off easily.

Well, three detailed emails to Eduard, no response. So, back to my original request. Anybody have an incomplete kit with the required gems intact available for sale?

Thank you all for the responses. As Murphy's law dictates, as soon as I received positive responses to my inquiry, the original instruction sheet magically re appeared amidst the magazine rack in the ... library. Thanks to all for intimidating karma to cause their reappearance.

I've been away for a while. While surfing ebay I've noticed listings for Model Master Lacquers. Similar bottles to the MM enamels but a lighter color on the label. People seem to play fast and loose with the term 'lacquer'. Are these real? Thin with lacquer thinner, fast drying, hard, go on really thin? And wasn't there talk of somebody re-issuing the old style Floquil paints?