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Posts posted by sigtau

  1. 11 hours ago, Charlie D. said:

    For mainstream stuff I’ve been buying a lot from Scale hobbyist and hobbylinc. They often will beat Sprue prices. Also keep an eye on Amazon, I’ve gotten some great deals there as well. Most recently a Tamiya 1/48 F-14A to my door for $80. Sprue is $91.99 not including shipping. 

    Scale Hobbyist will beat SB on pricing 99% of the time.  But SB tends to have a better selection of aftermarket items and ships much faster.  I snagged two of the new Tamiya F-14A late kits from scale hobbyist for $89 each.  Shipping was $10. 

  2. I've had some disasters, but nothing I couldn't recover the build from.  Technically, I did bin several really old in-work builds from the early 90's that I found in my parent's basement when I was helping them move.   I salvaged a few and finished them for nostalgia sake.  But there was no hope for many due to missing parts.  They were victims of my mother's menopause cleaning frenzies, which often entailed going through model kit boxes to see if they still had the kits inside.  If it was a started kit, any remaining parts and sprues would get thrown away along with the box.  The decals and instructions might get left behind.  And yes, it's as messed up as it sounds.   

  3. Sounds like some people were salty that the guy would go buy up collections for pennies on the dollar before they could buy up kits for pennies on the dollar.


    I'll admit, I've done a fair bit of business with them over the last few years.  I've scored some great deals on Dragon armor kits in particular.  But their prices were going upward over the last year.  And their selection was total crap before they shut down last month.





  4. Back in the late 80's, I ended up building all the ordnance from the Hasegawa 1/48 sets.  They came out OK, but my skills were rapidly advancing and they eventually looked like crap.  Most never got installed on builds. 


    Now I only build ordnance in small batches for my current builds.  I'll do 2-4 aircraft worth at a time, especially if AIM-9/7/120 missiles will be used.  I also have become a bit of an ordnance snob and rarely use any kit ordnance unless it's well tooled stuff.  I use items from all the Hasegawa sets and a fair bit of aftermarket resin ordnance.  Biggest challenge is finding enough markings to feed my desire for a higher standard of realistic looking ordnance.

  5. I know this sheet is rare as hen's teeth, but I'm after the Miss Liberty II markings for an F-111F build.  I would prefer to buy the full sheet, but will consider a partial sheet if it includes the miss liberty II markings.  I'll pay whatever price, even Ebay prices. 


    I also have several F-111A, C, D, E, F, EF-111, and FB-111 sheets from Xtracal, Micro/Super scale, Two bobs, cutting edge, and Caracal I would trade.  Including several low and high-vis full stencil sheets from Micro/Super scale.  I'm only looking to trade for the Afterburner sheet, these sheets are not for sale/trade otherwise.


    PM me if you have this sheet available for a deal.




  6. After having extensive adhesion issues with Reskit resin parts, I found that Mr. Metal Primer works very well with waxy resin parts.  If you are using the version from the bottle, thin it about 65% with Mr. Color Leveling thinner.


    I've also had good luck with enamel primers, but I don't work with enamels that much anymore due to slow drying times.

  7. I've completed two and have three in work.  They look great when finished, but are a nightmare to get across the finish line.   Packing them with aftermarket everything is probably the best way to make your life easier.


    1. Wheel bays - go with Aires replacements.  Even with all the grinding needed, they are still easier to install than the kit parts.
    2. Cockpit - Again, go with Aires.  Kit parts are a joke fit wise.
    3. Intakes - May God have mercy on your soul.  To make these look right, you are going to have to do some major surgery and scratch building.  The ramps hang too low.  I've devised a procedure to correct them, but it's a ton of work.  The intake side walls need to be extended, tons of cutting of the lower fuselage ramp area, thinning of gear wells, etc. Just cover them up with intake covers/plugs if you still wish to stick with Hasegawa. 
    4. Wings - See the David A. procedure to correct the flaps for the flaps down config.  Not an issue if you pose them in the swept config.
    5. Afterburner nozzles - not bad as is, but Aires and now Reskit make some nice resin replacements.
    6. Wheels - There are three types of main wheel hubs.  Check your refs to know which is correct for the era of your subject.  The best early and mid model wheels are those from Eduard.  For late style wheels, Reskit seems to be the best option.  DEF makes a late style, but the rim diameter looks oversized to me.  Also avoid wheelliant wheels, the mains are far to wide.
    7. Ordnance - AMK makes some nice F-14 ordnance for a decent price.  There's also the Black Box bombcat conversion for the bomb racks, various other sources for BOL rails, LANTIRN pod, etc.
    8. Markings - The F-14 has a ton of unique stenciling that seems to always get missed with most AM decals.  Fightertown makes a nice stencil set, but there's also the old VF Decal sheet that is packed with good stuff (I snagged several sheets back in the day before they went away).
    9. Landing gear - There are some aftermarket options, but not worth the hassle.  I've messed with the G-factor set and I say don't.  The nose gear is nice, but the mains have fit issues.  The masters were based off the kit parts and one of the main struts was built up with parts out of alignment.

    So.....you might want to just go with the Tamiya kit unless you really like to put yourself through hell.

  8. Generally, I don't believe most modern tooled kits are overpriced.  I can remember getting my first Hasegawa 1/48 F-14A back around 1990 and it was in the $50 range.  That high cost was being driven by currency exchange rate and Marco Polo imports.  The Tamiya F-14A at $100 is within the range I would expect for a modern tooled kit.


    However, there have been a few more recent releases that seem to be off scale high as far MSRP:


    Hobbyboss 1/48 MV-22 - $240

    Trumpy 1/35 MLRS - $140

    Meng 1/12 GT40 - $450


    I'm quoting approximate MSRP, actual price you can find would be 40% below these.  But even after 40% off, that GT40 price is just crazy.  This hobby must be growing at a rapid pace for Meng to ask for that kind of price.  It's also possible that licensing fees are getting steep for some subjects.   

  9. Playing devil's advocate for moment, wasn't VAT due all this time even before BREXIT?  It just wasn't collected by the overseas seller.  I can remember placing my first Hannant's order 20 years ago and seeing the VAT tacked on before I created my account with my USA address.  It was a bit of a sticker shock since the rate was so high.


    My state of residence in the USA forces domestic online retailers to collect sales tax if they meet a minimum amount of annual business in the state.  Several other states do the same thing.  The funny part is you were always supposed to pay that sales tax, but no one ever did.  And flipping eBay collects sales tax on ALL my purchases, even if they are from overseas sellers.

  10. I took a 13 year break from 2004 - 2017.  Work, Life, and AMS caused it to happen.  Coming back was hard.  I had to start over and rebuild my skills to get back where they had been.  I'm sort of back there now, but there's still work to be done.  I would take a more aggressive approach to getting back into it.  I sort of eased into and it felt like I was slowly pulling a band-aid off. 


    Similar to what you mentioned about making notes, I did spend time thinking about how I could approach this hobby in a more constructive way.  The biggest issue I identified was build paralysis, which would cause me to stall out on a project.  Learning to really grit my teeth and power through my builds has been the biggest help.      

  11. 8 hours ago, jward said:

    I'm using the older CAM sheet that features VF-102 and VF-143 from OEF. 



    The original printing of that CAM sheet used the wrong color of red.  It will look pink on the model.  Get the fightertown sheet or find the special Hasegawa boxing that had the final VF-102 scheme markings.


    Back in the day, I used that sheet and actually over-sprayed all of the red portions with the correct red.  I also called out the owner of CAM on their mistake and he denied it was the wrong color.  


    Lastly, there's photos of the actual aircraft floating around the interwebs that clearly show that it's painted up in the 3-tone TPS scheme.  EDIT:  Looking again, it's not clear if Light/Dark Ghost gray were both used.  But the the darker Medium Gray is definitely applied to the top surfaces.

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