sigtau

To be fair, I only said the fit was "mediocre" - not bad, but not great. As a block 15 and up plane, it's not bad. The A and ADF tail base shape is the only significant error in the kit. As a block 52 plane, it's pretty much good to go. I have two more kits coming and have stacks of block 25 through 52 decals that need a home. This kit will work fine for that range of blocks.

The photo I posted in my last reply was BEFORE I modified the tail base to have the correct profile. But the step is a minor issue compared to the shape of the tail base parts. The cross sections of all three vertical tail base types (A, C, ADF) have the EXACT same rectangular profile in the kit. I took the leftover C and ADF front bases and the rear C and parabrake housing and lined them up in this photo. They will completely interchange with each other in the kit, which is not the case on the real plane. The A and ADF tail bases form an isosceles trapezoid cross section at th

I didn't capture photos for all of the issues before corrections. a) Right forward insert part D67 must be shaved down to avoid sitting proud of the surface. Not really an issue if you are filling it smooth, but it takes work to clean it up and not obliterate all the panel detail that are supposed to remain. b) Gun port insert D3 (I used the early version) also doesn't sit flush. I had to carve away part of the aft edge to get it to seat right. Came out OK in the end. c) Intake lip part E10 flares outward along the mating joint to the main intake assembly

The Reskit nozzle for the Hasegawa kit, part number RSU48-0119. I managed to rework it to fit into the kit shroud, but it also includes a resin shroud that comes pretty close to fitting the Kinetic kit.

Calling it thoroughly enjoyable is stretching the truth. It looks great in the box with the sprues still wrapped in their bags. Open those bags and you are treated with very mediocre fit with nearly every part. The fuselage and wing components were badly warped in my kit, requiring a fair bit of bending, checking fit, repeat. I had to shim up the rear fuselage joint just behind the wings. The upper fuselage was ~1mm narrower than the bottom in that area. I enjoy a little bit of a challenge, but I wouldn't expect it with a retooled kit that's supposed to be new and improved.

I took a stab at fixing that vertical tail base. I sawed/carved a trough from the main fin slot all the way aft to nearly the trailing edge. I forced back together with a heavy duty clamp and lots of CA and kicker. I mostly succeeded in my end goal, but it's still too wide at the thickest point. I also rounded over the shelf formed by the base since it had very sharp corners. It could use some more blending, but I didn't feel like having to re-scribe all the detail.

Here's mine mocked up with the plain A tail. It does look a little wide where the tail section attaches to the front.

I built my tail up as a pure A model tail and it's not nearly that thick. Did you use the correct parts for the rear portion of the base? It almost looks like you used the C tail parts, which are thicker than the A parts.

Speaking of cockpit decals, I can confirm that the Quinta decals originally designed for the old Kinetic kits will fit this kit with very little modification. The cockpit is more or less the same size and shape as the original tooling. That being said, if you are trying to build this kit as an non-MLU F-16A, you are going to have to modify the instrument panel if you want it to be accurate. There is what appears to be an A model panel in the kit. It's really just another C/MLU model instrument panel that has a partial attempt at replicating A model details. The problem is it l

As far as corrections you mentioned: - Dmold made nose corrections for both Monogram and Hobbyboss kits. They are on hiatus due to the Russian banking situation. - Quickboost makes a ventral fin correction set - Reskit is working on a new vertical fin for the HB G model (they also make a nice afterburner set for both kits) - Phase hanger released a new pylon set, external tanks coming soon. - Flight line resin has a few ordinance bits, including a standard missile and launch rail. - Aires makes cockpits and wheel bay sets for all four versions

I considered the Quinta / Aires fusion for the Revell F-15E. But the physical sizing differences, mainly with the aft cockpit instrument panel, made me decide against it. I'm curious to see how it came out for you and where you cut down the Quinta decals to fit.

If I recall, many of the SG parts could be used to upgrade the Revell kit to the current active duty F-15E configuration. How about remix of the necessary parts into a Revell F-15E update set?

The trailing edge issue.....we're talking about ~0.3 mm of sweep from the root to the tip of the horizontal stabilizer. When I overlaid a square box over the drawing, sure enough the trailing edge has a slight sweep to it. Also, the dimensioning line for the span is perpendicular to the root cord line. But the drawing isn't correctly defining the angle with the proper number of decimal places and doesn't call out the trailing edge angle. That probably had the manufacturing engineers asking "but, why????" Here's mine cut down and reshaped to fit the Kinetic kit.

I received the first of my three copies of the F-16C kit and dug into it immediately. My goal is to build a block 10 bird from the NY ANG during Desert Storm. Most of those block 10 mods of the kit parts went fine, but I still have to pick through references to make panel line and smaller detail fixes. There are two aftermarket horizontal stabilizers replacement sets that you could try to start from, Quickboost and Wolfpack. I happen to have both, and to make a long story short, neither is a quick solution. Neither appear to have properly reduced the cord length. And neither o

Bump, I would also consider the Fightertown 48-064 decal sheet. I also have a very large decal collection, so I'm willing to trade for one of the two sheets I'm looking for.

I'm in search of markings for a 3-tone gray US NAVY F-16N. Two old decal sheets have this particular scheme on them: Fightertown Decals 1/48 1:48 Adversary Ghosts #48-064 W&D Studio 48-001 F-16N decal sheet (or partials) I'll take either sheet, full or partial. PM me if you have a set to sell.

They are supposed to be re-issued soon, along with the folding vertical tail. https://www.facebook.com/wolfpackd/posts/pfbid0pZ4V5koBYXPPhhUSpLpiMo8zD5B3S4czF9GUgPgyF1gmdDjDskgCD6hfZaK3JWThl

For the Block 15, are there MLG mounted landing lights buried in the sprues somewhere? I wasn't able to identify them from the available sprue shots online.

Same, including some from 2003, 2004, 2005....

I'm looking for a kit to model a USAF block 10 Desert Storm plane from the NY ANG 79-0403. After scouring the photos of the sprues, it appears to be a really good starting point. I'm no F-16 expert, but here's the rough list of big ticket items I know I'll need to mod if using the Kinetic kit: - Remove beer cans, IFF bird slicers, and GPS antenna from upper fuselage - Rework horizontal stabs to be shorter early versions - Use early A instrument panel (part #D33 in kit) - Early vertical tail base w/o parabrake housing appears to be included - Use li

I would use Alclad Steel or Magnesium.

The saw toothed pattern on the B-2 was done to improve low level penetration capability. The USAF wasn't convinced the B-2 would be stealthy enough for high level penetration, so they wanted to ensure it could still fly low level profiles. The B-21 only has a payload of 30K lbs, half of what the B-2 can carry. Notice the main gear only have two wheels each. Gross weight will probably top out around 200 - 220K lbs, making it a medium bomber. Cockpit is VERY narrow compared to the B-2, looks to be single seated or perhaps tandem like the B-47 and B-58. Likely only twin

Meng doesn't have the best track record as far as the accuracy of their ordnance. I own two of their Super hornet kits and all of their older ordinance sets. Some of them look great, some are cartoon renditions of the real thing. Their GBU-12s and AIM-54s are terrible. AIM-7s are great. Aim-9s are OK. Markings are pure fiction on most of their sets.

There's currently no aftermarket sets to fully update any of the 1/72 kits to current standards. In particular, the sniper/lightning pod pylons are badly needed.

I've had issues with Aires parts being undersized due to excessive resin shrinkage. But in this case, I assume the engine cover fits the length of the finished (yet short) nose correctly. Given the differences in surface detail, it's possible Aires recycled/adapted an older set meant for a different kit.