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About gregax

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    1/48 WW2 airplanes, 60's jets
  1. Hi, not sure if thir is the right place to put this question. I am currently working on 1/48 scale deck diorama and as a part of deck setting i am planning to make/build the new version of the USN tow tractor. I have already modelled it in 3D software and i'm planning to print it, but i have big probem as I have no idea how big it should be. Does anybody know or is able to give me the measures of this beast? I would really appreciate any help - even the tire size is good enough for me to recalculate the exact measurments. Thank you in advance and Happy New Year to everybody! This is the tow tractor...
  2. Don't use oil based paint (testors, revell, humbrol) . Acryilics are the way to go. (Mr.Color, Gunze H, Tamiya). Also the clear coat should be acrylic.
  3. Just paint it like you planned to and then dip the canopy in the future....
  4. Roll it to the desired thickness, shape it. Then cover it with talcum powder just before you put it on the horse back. Wait until it hardens.
  5. Instead of putting down newspaper You should also consider putting damp paper towel over the newspaper. That way the dust will stick to it and not get blown up and over your freshly painted kit.
  6. What I do prior to any serious painting is: -vacuum the entire room -clean all level areas (desk, etc) with dust cloth - when painting try to keep your model as vertical as possible. - after spraying, I'd store freshly painted kit under a plastic box I guess the collection of dust also depends of the paint you are using. Enamels take longer to dry, so they will collect more dust. Lacquer paint dry almost instantly, so less dust will stick to the paint.
  7. I use windex (Ajax... anything ammonia based) window cleaer for resin parts. Surfacer 1200 for primer. Never had any problems.
  8. The best there is... I can't tell You how great this one is...
  9. It has been sanded and I had no problem with fitting them together...
  10. Good start and good luck. I am building the same kit with almost the same amount of aftermarket, so i know what awaits You. Don't cut the fuselage as you have already cut the resin parts because of warpage. Just add some copper wires to add detail. Sorry if I post the photo of my wheelbays during construction. I will delete them upon Your request. This is what You will have to do if You decide to cut the lower fuselage. Brass struts are glued along the lenght of the wing to straighten them as they are bent OOB.
  11. Oh, been there and done that. Don't use black. Use tire black instead. As Airea said.For weathering, I strongly reccomend Mig wash for black. It is fantastic product. Here it's how my Lancaster end up.
  12. I don't know about NEO's, but are you sure that you have bought the same size nozzle as the needle is? This exact thing happened to me with my H&S evolution when I mixed nozzle, needle size by accident.
  13. ok, i will repeat.... take a blob of milliput and make a roll out of it. Then sprinkle some talcum powder on the level survace (cuting mat) then place the piece of glass (4 by 4 inches is what i use )on top of the milliput and roll it with a piece of glass. You will end up with perfect roll of milliput.
  14. Well, Aires can be a bit troublesme to fit, they take lots of sanding and dryfiting to get a great result. But it depends - for example, detail set for Me-262 fits like a glove. In your case I can see the problem... You have to sand the sides of the fuselage so the wheeltub almost protrudes through the bottom of the fuselage.(make the hole for the wheeltub a bit bigger than the Aires part if You look it from the bottom of the fuselage) Then You will have to fill the gaps with putty and sand them smooth. I had the same exact problem with my su-27 wheeltub. I hope that helps.
  15. Piece of glass and some talcum powder...
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