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arg

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Everything posted by arg

  1. 1 - Full-size measurement would be .385 x 48 = 18.48 in 2 - In 1/72 scale, 18.48 / 72 = .256666667 which would be approximately .257 in
  2. Kursad - Quick question: Is the tail number "11370" on the sheet? I see 11369, so maybe I'm just missing something. Also hope the 1/72 sheet will have both prototype tail numbers. Thanks -- the sheet looks great!
  3. Another question in this subject area: Sprue Brothers carries Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color GUNC181 Super Clear (semi-gloss) in a bottle. Could I use that with a brush to touch-up small areas that I wanted to apply a semi-gloss finish? Any recommendations of similar semi-gloss bottle (i.e. NOT spray) products? Thanks.
  4. Jon - I recently built this kit for an Electronic Warfare Officer (EWO) who had over 100 missions in the RB-47H (over 30 of those missions were in #4280, one of the kit's marking options). A few items from my experience and discussions with the EWO: - The opening in the anti-glare decal is slightly larger than the canopy, so the inner area around the canopy will need some touchup with black paint. - The black protrusion on top of the fuselage was a star tracker. The kit shows it on the aircraft centerline, but it actually should be slightly offset to the right. - The EWO told
  5. In Sept 1983 (40 yrs ago (!!)), an EF-111 (66-023) stopped at Wright-Patterson AFB, and base employees were allowed to come down to the flight line and view it. Here are a few shots from the ones I took that should be of some help 😉
  6. If only they could get the fuselage star-and-bar correct...........sigh......
  7. Memory is the second thing to go. I can't remember what the first one is...........🤔
  8. "It hasn't been all success stories." True. I had heard that around the time of the breakup of the Soviet Union, the Museum was offered a Tu-95 Bear, and the Museum turned the offer down. Maybe there's more behind-the-scenes that made the deal more difficult than what came out, but imagine the Bear displayed nose-to-nose with a B-52!
  9. I completed a build of the Tamiya 1/700 Iowa. The Scale Colors paints of Light Gray/Navy Blue/Deck Blue were used (Black and Gray just seemed too drab). Used the Gold Medal photoetch for details, and Master Models barrels for the 16-inch guns.
  10. Thanks! I will check into both Vallejo and Mr Color. (I tend to prefer enamel or lacquer if the color is available - hard to break the MM habit... 🙂)
  11. As my Model Master paints get used up, are there any recommendations for a paint line that's good for brush painting? I'd like to get some paints that are not 'pre-thinned for airbrush', to use for brush painting small areas, picking out details, etc. Thanks.
  12. The idea I had was to portray a hypothetical "rollout" scheme for prototype #1. Trim was based on the blue & gold scheme of the original F/A-18, but without the gold (figuring the press would have a field day on how 'gold-plated' the program was...)🙂 :
  13. While its not cheap ($12.95), Eduard makes the 131 (shallow) pod that would be appropriate - with a NICE set of waterslide decals. The pod itself is very sharp also. Item #648363.
  14. No aircraft is totally "invisible". Usually in analyses of 'when can it see me' scenarios, the phrase "tactically significant ranges" comes into play. If the F-35 (or any other low observable aircraft) flies close enough to a radar, it will eventually be 'seen'. However, if the aircraft can launch/release its weapon before it reaches that range, then it has the advantage. So if stealth reduces the radar's tactically significant range for tracking the aircraft to 20 miles (a made-up number), but the aircraft has a weapon with a range of 30 miles, the radar will not see the aircraft before t
  15. Another way to maximize space in a display case is to use acrylic risers. I get them at 'AT Enterprises', a one-man business that will make them to your custom specifications. I've bought a number of them over the years. I believe he was at last year's Nats.
  16. Though they may be found locally, I bought on Amazon a pack of 'half-pearls' that had diameters from 2mm to 10mm. They are exactly what they sound like: a solid plastic 'pearl' sliced in half. The flat portion may have a slight indentation that needs filled, but they can look pretty good once painted and with 'electrical wiring' glued into the back (round) side.
  17. I like that! With 1/72 kits of the F-35A and B out (ignoring the Orange F-35C kit for the moment), how about "F-35A & B - The Early Years" and have AF-01 and BF-01 included?
  18. "Memphis Belle II" would be awesome! "Classic SAC" scheme with nose art - and look at the size of the SAC shield!
  19. Notice how the wing 'star-and-bar' marking disappears in the second photo, and reappears in a lighter shade in the third photo!! Very interesting!
  20. That's what I think also. They must have had a relative of Mr. McGoo cut the stencil out! (How's that for a vintage reference!!)
  21. I liked its combination of markings: Properly proportioned star-and-bar (how did the maintenance crews mess that up on some of the other jets listed on the sheet?), Desert Storm mission markings, colorful (multi-color ribbon on the tail; nosegear door markings), easier to paint a single color on the top of the tail rather than trying to wrap a (multi-color) decal around it, and the wheel hubs (nose wheel hubs are red, main wheel hubs have an eagle decal).
  22. Sure! Your build thread inspired me to get moving and finish my build!
  23. These are great decals - you'll really like using them. I ended up making '892' from this sheet. Take your time with the interior intake decals - they can be tricky to position. I applied them one at a time in each intake and let them completely dry before putting the next one on.
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