MiG Hunter

Holly molly...what a dilemma! By nozzle I think you mean tip. I never used micro airbrush kit to clean my Paasche(VL). I know that the brass tip is delicate and you can easily dent or deform it if dropped or in your case force a brush through it, I suppose. In my opinion, get a new tip and forget about salvaging your old one as its integrity is most probably compromised anyways.

I just noticed that the Testors lacquer flat coat partially damaged the TAMIYA acrylic paint which was protected under Future! What the hell?! How can I fix this mess? I can't catch a break here. Problem after problem.

viper730, I am done with Future too. This was the last time I use it for gloss coating. It was a nightmare from get go with pools and runs and everything. Now, as for your suggestions, can I airbrush X-22 and XF-86 straight or should I thin them? I will not sand the model. I am a newbie and I am sure I will ruin the whole model with decals, ordinance, gears and everything on now but thank you for your advice.

This is what happened to my Tomcat tonight after the final flat coat. What am I doing wrong? FYI, I airbrushed the model with TAMIYA acrylic, then airbrushed the whole model with Future, then applied decals, then again airbrushed Future to seal the decals and finally sprayed the model with Testors lacquer flat clear(rattle can) to finish it up but look how mottled the final look has become. Any idea? Please help!

Oops...duly noted. Thank you.

WOW...thanks a million, crackerjazz for the great photos. Now I know how to fix mine. You guys are the best. How would I survive these modeling disasters without you on this forum? p.s. How do you get to upload such hi-res photos on this forum? I doesn't allow any larger photo than 0.1mb!!!

The landing gear of my 1/48 Tomcat broke off last night while decaling. Please see photos below. https://ibb.co/b4ucAm https://ibb.co/cwNm36 https://ibb.co/b9NKO6 What is the best way to fix it?

I am happy to announce that after stripping the paint off the doors and starting all over again, I am much happier with the final result. I ended up airbrushing the edges red first and after a day, I masked the edges very carefully and patiently with thin strips of masking tapes I cut out myself and airbrushed the interiors with white and today after removing the tapes, voila! It is not picture perfect but for a guy who is building his only 6th model, I did well. Thank you guys for all your help.

Thank you, Kurt H. for your reply. I am done with Future too. I just have to fix and finish this model properly. I will start using X-22 before decaling as of next project. Do you airbrush X-22 or hand brush it?

@dsahling, So you hand brush the x-22 instead of airbrushing?! This is the disaster on my almost finish Tomcat. I am so frustrated now. I tried to gently dissolve the dried Future pool but look what happened. What should I do now? https://ibb.co/ieRJfm https://ibb.co/dZ9h6R https://ibb.co/bue4Lm

Hello? Anyone? Please help!

Thank you guys but still...how can I fix the dried pool after the fact?

WOW...that was a hell of job! Thank you, Captain Obvious for explaining how you do it. I have to work on my patience as much my masking skills then.

I hate Future!!! No matter how I do it, I always get Future pools here and there on the model. I always airbrush it straight from the bottle without thinning. I tried low psi and a few misty passes but I still get it. What is the best way to fix Future pools? I have a few dried pools on my Tomcat now. I airbrushed Future last night to seal the decals. I even tried to gently dissolve the dried pool with a Qtips dipped in Windex but it immediately damaged the underneath paint. Now I have to fix the pain too Please help!

After spending hours and trying both methods(Sharpie and masking), I decided to strip paint off all the doors as I was not happy with the final product. I wanted a clean and straight red on all interior edges but I was unable to produce it. Bleeding was also an issue. I am back to square one again. Any other way to do this? Mind you that this is a 1/48 scale and gear doors are big enough to show details.

Aussie_superbug, what do you mean by +2? I am leaning towards ultra fine sharpie now.

Hello guys, As I am building the 1/48 F-14A, I need to paint the wheel well cover edges red. See actual photo. What is the best way to have this edge painted nice and clean? I'd appreciate your tricks and suggestions.

Hello?!!! Anyone can help?

Hello guys, I had to remove a one-week-old roundel decal from the wing of my 1/48 Revell F-14A Tomcat(IIAF) to relocate it but look at the silhouette it left on the wing. How can this be fixed? Also, I had to remove another decal strip but as you see there is some film residue. How can this be completely cleaned up? FYI, the decals were applied to glossy surface( with Future) but not top coated yet. I used microset and microsol to apply decals and removed it with vinegar(microset wouldn't do much to remove it) See photos

I have airbrushed it so far but had pooling issue here and there. Any suggestions?

Do you guys airbrush Future or hand brush it? If airbrushed, how many coats? What psi?

Thank you all. Mission Models seems to be the best as it is odorless and cheaper than Mr. Paint. Has anybody used Vallejo Air here? Any feedback?

Hello guys, What is the best airbrush ready paint that does not need thinning? I have only seen Vallejo Air. I believe it is acrylic. Never tried it. Any insight and suggestion is appreciated.

I use TAMIYA XF-85, Rubber Black. Very happy with the final product and real like.

WOW...that F-4 windshield is amazing! Well, I am a newbie and this is my 5th model in total so I have a lot to learn. As for the amount of tint, this is what I am planning to build and as you can see the tint is quite green: