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checksix214

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About checksix214

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    Glue Required

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  1. Thanks a bunch guys. That's very helpful.
  2. Hi guys, i need some help. I've been commissioned to build a Danish Leopard 2A5DK and the client want the Swedish-made Barracuda camouflage mats that were applied to the tank during the Afghan War. i cant find clear images on google of these mats. they seem to be fussy and don't show sharp detail. does anyone have images or know where to find some? greatly appreciated Kurt
  3. Hello to all. I'm new to this part of ARC so bare with me cause I'm an airplane modeler by trade. Anyway The Doctor I work for gave me the Pegasus Nautilus Sub from 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea to build for him and also provided a light kit from VoodooFx to install. the problem is i've never done anything with lighting so i don't really know what I'm doing, can anyone suggest how to get the lighting started or some instructional aid to learn how to do the lighting? the voodoofx instructions aren't too clear and i think they assume you know a bit about how to wire lights to a model. I've check
  4. Well I think I'll give Mr. Surfacer a try but I will definitely take a good look at Gator. Thanks a lot fellas.
  5. Gator glue? What's that? Where do you get it?
  6. Does anyone know if I can use Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 to fill gaps around clear canopies without crazing it? Cheers, Kurt
  7. Yeah I found that out and most of these errors were fixed but I'd like it to not happen. So I'd like to try a different clear gloss. Plus I can never seem to get it glossy enough that I don't get silvering. But thanks for the reaffirmation that all will be good Trojan.
  8. This is really more of a finishing question but I could'nt find a forum for it. I used Future for my clear gloss before decals on my 1/72 F-15E Strike Eagle. Now that i used decal solvent on the jet the future turned white. this seems to happen on all my models and i'm not sure how to fix it. Does anyone have a suggestion as which clear gloss you guys use that wont do this? Thanks guys, Kurt
  9. You may want to check out strikeeagle.com; I think that's the web site name. It's all strike eagles but may have some C model info. My guess is the J model is a Japanese license F-15 so it should be similar enough.
  10. Anyone have a good way of making 1/48 instrument bezels? I'm starting the Monogram P-38 which has a decal for the panel so i wanna scratch build one. Anysuggestions other than buying an after market would be greatly appreciated. Kurt
  11. Really? That's confusing cause i read that the sealer made by Testors for the metalizer doesn't change the appearance. if i seal it can't I mask over it then? i was under the impression you could.
  12. Hi fella's Does anyone know when I'm supposed to apply the sealer on MM metalizers? should i wait 24 Hrs or 10 minutes or so after i buff the buff-able stuff. also, apparently i screwed up & sprayed the metalizer first. now i need to paint the yellow stripe around the fuselage and the nose of my F-86. Anyone have a suggestion for masking this stuff without messing it all up? Thanks, Kurt
  13. Hi fella's Does anyone know when I'm supposed to apply the sealer on MM metalizers? should i wait 24 Hrs or 10 minutes or so after i buff the buff-able stuff. also, apparently i screwed up & sprayed the metalizer first. now i need to paint the yellow stripe around the fuselage and the nose of my F-86. Anyone have a suggestion for masking this stuff without messing it all up? Thanks, Kurt
  14. I was using a Brother printer w/their ink. No after market ink. Too messy. I cant remember if the paper was bought from Hobbytown (it would have been Testors paper) or older paper of unknown brand. But i do want get a quality paper since im putting alot of work into converting an F-86 into an FJ-3M Fury in 1/72. I want the decals looking great.
  15. When i have my graphics laser printed do i need a fixative & can i use decal solvents on them?
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