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Everything posted by redruffensore
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Welcome to the '08 Nats Forum!
redruffensore replied to Steve Filak's topic in ARC at the IPMS/USA 2008 Nats
Man, that is so wrong! If that shows up, I'm going gay! :D See you guys at the Nats, but I am afraid because of the economy (at least mine), it will be an abbreviated stay Friday and Saturday like I did in '96. Not so much the gas as the ridiculous room rates, I'd pay the same for gas whether I went for two or four days. So I'll miss Two Bobs, but will try to touch bases with as many as possible and maybe make the ARC gathering Saturday night. Caz -
It's done, fini, throw away the box! I'm done too. Anyone really want some karma, rig a DeHavilland or Sopwith! There are 30 pieces of invisible thread here, inserted or attached to 60 holes or posts. Some may ask why I said building a biplane is a physical exercise, try it. Your body will ache in more places than you ever dreamed from the Japanese body arrangement one has to do to get to certain places for the thread and small parts. Today, out of the 30 threads attached, I bet I lost 12 to 15. Three broke (one twice) after I had them attached and cut. I had to build two new rigging eyelet
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Yesterday: I need to stick some tape belts to the seat, but the fuselage halves are going together. Paints used are Polly Scale: Dirty White, British Medium Sea Grey; MMAcryl: Wood, Leather, Burnt Sienna, all clear coats. Weathering was done with powdered pastels before the final clear flat. I had to narrow the channel at the rear of the upper combing, it was far too wide when dry fit. I'll still have to trim to fit in the rear of the guns as it juts out too far. Today: I have been a busy boy today and got the Strutter's fuselage and top decking on, cut, filled, sanded, and rescribed as n
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Here's the answer to all your problems. You'll probably never use CA on models again. Gator Glue Caz
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No back cushion, usually just a simple deep-seat aluminum bucket, deep seated because the pilot sit on his parachute, that was his cushion. No shoulder harness either, only lap belts. Yes, they had hand holds, which could double as tie-downs in an emergency. Caz
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You mean F4F-3 (Hard Wing, did not fold) Wildcat. If you have access to Model Master, use Chrome Yellow (FS:13538). Humbrol and XtraCrylics also makes this colour. Note from an experienced modeler, when any shade of Yellow is called for, one is best to prime with a coat of good white first. White works almost as well as black when used as a primer for silver or natural metal finishes too. As a rule, some early Wildcats had silver fuselages, but most all production F3F-3s had fuselages painted in Light Gray (sometimes called Silver-Gray, FS:16622). This paint was a high gloss paint. The un
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Tutorial for small figures (seated pilots in my case)
redruffensore posted a topic in Tools 'n' Tips
That's right, none of you do figures, so this is moot I guess! Anyhow, I wanted to give a little short tut on how I do it. It's real hard to align the arms to the control stick/wheel, throttle, etc. with nothing but a slick mount on each. I drill 0.017-in, #79 bit, to accept wire of the same size. Drill through the arms and CA a piece of wire to each, leave enough on one side to handle and manipulate and enough on the other side to give a good join to the figure. Mark and drill a hole in the figure for each arm and test fit. After doing so, I fit the figure in the seat and pit and manipulat -
Sure did Ross. Filled and sanded all the depressions (if that's what you mean) with Mr. Surfacer. Sanded away the overly done raised detail too. Molding is correct in the shape of the wings. They were two-piece affairs, joined where the braced struts are located. Caz
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This is a tried and true real-time "Commie" kit, the K-P (aka Kopro) BH-3, molded before the wall came down. The pilot is a PJ Production resin figure. I scratch-built the exhausts from 0.040-in styrene rod. Prop mount to plane on two sizes of brass rod, Paints used are Polly Scale Dark Italian Olive, US Khaki, Early Israeli Tan, and Russian Underside Blue (lightened with Reefer White). Decals printed by a man who ruined the hobby, checks in the mail mate, got 'em late Tuesday afternoon, and just was so bananas to finish the kit. I used Microscale Trim Film White in lieu of Miike's under
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Good job Lucien, The Marquette kit is much more difficult than ICM's and harder to get the result you achieved. I have both, but when time comes to build one, I'll take the ICM and use the Marquette for spares maybe. Caz
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Reading glasses are cheaper, come in a variety of magnification and nowhere near the hassle of modeler's binoculars.. I've used reading glasses since 1990, never will use another pair of modeling binoculars. Caz
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A Question Regarding the Drilling Out of Guns etc.....
redruffensore replied to Boywillie's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
I use a small sewing needle held in a pin vise. Caz -
Not that it'll be of any help, but here is a profile from the Wings Palette. Slovak insurgent B-534 profile Lots of good profiles found at this site. I use it for Repaints I do for FS2004. WINGS PALETTE Caz
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Enamels over acrylics present no problem, as you are shooting a cold paint over a hot paint. However, always test when shooting acrylic over enamel. Enamel is a cold paint and dries slowly and is flexible after curing. Hot paints like lacquer and true acrylics are hot paints and can cause a cold paint to crack and crinkle. Caz
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Diego, At the store you purchased your Model Master Acryl paint, there should be a product by Model Master called "Acryl Diluant Thinner Acryl". It is the best thinner I have found for MM or any acrylic paint. It contains glycerin, which helps retard acrylic drying at the airbrush tip. Also, you do not mention the air pressure you are using. For acrylics, never use over 15 psi, they shoot even better if thinned to at 10 -12 psi. Hope this helps, Caz
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Agree with Tancist and Mickey, I have both, no comparison, ICM is the kit you want. Caz
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You know, if you were to ask me, "Do I hate Fine Molds models?", I'd have to say yes. They cost too much and they do not do enough models of proper subjects. With that in mind, Dorothy Pace, Charlie Pace's wife, called me over to the vendor booth at Richmond and said Charlie sit this one aside just for you. Then she handed me the Find Molds 1/72 Curtiss R3C-0 kit. I could have dropped. At first thought I had envisioned converting it to the true R3C-1, but alas, the fuselage was too long and the tailplanes too small. So hey, being who I be, I say hey, they Navy needed a damn floatplane fighte
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Definitely a white prime Mike, I prefer Polly Scale Reefer White, a Model RR paint. It dries bone hard and is quite sandable. I can even polish it with auto polish, it's that strong. Caz
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You know George, I did a repaint of Herr Goering's all-white D.VII for FS2004 using Stuart Green's D.VII. I have done 6 repaints of the D.VII so far and of all the other complicated schemes, Goering by far has garnished the most downloads. Caz
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Polly Scale at one time made a PC10 and a PC 12. From most studies I have done, later F2Bs were PC12, while some earlier F2As were PC10. The best I can show are sim plane examples. This Sopwith Tripe is PC10, which had a brownish color. the Brisfit is PC12, which is a dark olive green. Caz
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Milo, here's a scan that I took the liberty of PSing and cropping of Don Greer's cover art for the Squadron in Action poblication on the D.VII. Also I have scanned two b & w pix inside of Lothar and his D.VII. HTH, Caz
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Don't care for Wing of War, nor the soon to be released Flyboys sim, both are online sims only and I do not care for those types of sims. OFF has quick combat, missions, and campaigns. Flying over the front on a dawn patrol is amazing with the artillery bursts. Nothing out there can touch OFF for a WW I sim at the present moment, period. Caz
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Not much more aerobatic, used the same Gypsy engine. I have an airline pilot biking buddy who had a Stampe once, beautiful to fly in, nothing like an open pit. He sold it and got a Beech Bonanza, needs to have his head examined! Anyhow, you guys forced me to steal this guy's Stampe and take off for a joyride. Caz
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Dave, most of those engine that are shown for the rotarys are actual 7-cylinder radial Rotec engines used in the flying models. Needless to say, rotary engines are no longer made, but radials are, so it's a natural choice when building a reproduction. The Dr.1s, the 1, the one and a half Strutter, and the Nieuport 17s were built to one to one planes. The smae fellow builf 3/6 scale flying models of World war I aircraft, here's one of his 3/4 SE-5 I saw this weekend at Dinwiddie. Here's a shot of two of the Nieuports used for the movie. Caz
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There's already a good replacement for RB-3D and RB-II, it's called Over Flanders Fields and it works off of the CFS3 engine. That's right, as bad as CFS3 might be compared to the Il-2 series, OFF makes its purchase all worthwhile. OFF is free, you can get it at Over Flanders Fields. Until WWI: Knights of the Sky is finalized and it's been ongoing for two years, so who knows, OFF is the best experience you ever had flying crates. Caz