Chuck1945

Try on a test piece. My experience, quite dated, is that a buffable metallic is prone to lifting when masked over.

Try the one ones you have, mix in a separate cup not the airbrush in case one results in a gooey mess.

I’ve no knowledge of these, but if they behave at all like the Eduard and SH decals that have removable film make sure they are well set into any panel lines or other surface irregularities else removing the film will lift the unattached part of the decal.

We lived in Pullman WA, home of Washington State University, for 19 years, moving to outside Spokane when my wife retired at the end of 2019. We still have many friends there and attended a 70th birthday party for one of them on a Saturday night, my Pullman/Moscow IPMS club met the next day so I opted to stay over instead of making the 150 mile round trip again on Sunday. It was also the first weekend for students at both WSU and the University of Idaho as well as Pullman’s National Lentil Festival. What would have been a $140 room the week before was $300; fortunately I had enough points to c

I have one, it works well and stays put. I like that it fits my various sized paint containers from the 17ml drip top to the 23ml Tamiya bottles. It also has an automatic timer that will turn itself after x seconds so you can can start it shaking and leave it alone while you continue to do other ‘before actual painting’ preparatory steps. I have arthritis in both hands so hand shaking or stirring is something I try to avoid.

The only really old built kit I have an Airfix 1/72 Gladiator built in ‘71 or thereabouts, Humbrol enamels and rub-on decals. The reason it has survived with only one rigging wire coming undone is due to it packed away for most of the time so no sun exposure and no paint shifts. Except for perhaps 3-4 models including that Gladiator, all built ones were tossed when we moved from PA to WA in 2001.

If Fantasy Printshop is still around (it was for sale last time I saw) they used to have quite an assortment of WWII Luftwaffe letter and number sets in different sizes with and without outlines. Perhaps worth a check.

Buy one and find out

Another Flickr user here, you can store up to 1000 images in a free account. More would require Flickr Pro.

Simple Green and elbow grease successfully removed Tamiya XF series paint from a failed experiment on an Airfix 1/72 Swordfish several years ago.

I think your interpretation mixing silver and white is correct. I tried that several years using Tamiya XF series flat aluminum and white but was unhappy with results, too grainy. Tamiya’s XF flat aluminum has subsequ3ntly been redone and is smoother. Regardless, I would now choose their LP (lacquer) version. I don’t have any Gunze silvers so can’t really address that, but if the intent of their mix formula is to produce a flatter, not quite silver look, flat aluminum would probably work.

I discovered that too. I’m trying out a couple of other VMS products as well (flat coat and decal solutions) so shipment will be after they get a VMS resupply. I recently used Techmod decals on an Eduard Hellcat and the decals seem impervious to the softener solutions I tried so will check VMS’s offerings as well.

Thanks

US source?

I use Mr Color, Hataka Orange series, MRP, and some AK Real Colors - all are acrylic lacquers and I only use primer if I’m checking checking for construction blemishes.