Chuck1945

I’m resurrecting this thread with a spin-off question. I have a California Air Tools compressor and a long regular airbrush hose using QDs to connect with my airbrush. The brush has a male qd and the hose a female qd. I am in a relatively dry climate area and usually have no issue with water in the airflow, but ... Recently I have sprayed using the .4mm needle/nozzle combo with my H&S Infinity and have had what I think are water splotches (never noticed this using the .2 or .15mm needles) so looking at installing this between the current hose and brush, then adding an additional hose to connect the regulator and airbrush. I am unsure however, from the product description, just what additional fittings I will need to complete the set-up. I think all I need would be two more female connectors for the hose, but ... not sure.

I have both the H&S Evolution and Infinity but when I was having troubles with the H&S ones last year (the .2mm needle/nozzle was erratic) I got the PS770 and have enjoyed using it as well. Turned out the H&S issue was a nozzle issue that even magnifier viewing by a dealer was difficult to spot, so now I have three brushes with which I am quite satisfied. In all honesty, I prefer the H&S brushes simply because I can use a smaller paint cup on smaller jobs and can easily change between .15, .2 and .4mm needle/nozzles depending upon painting needs. As as the others have said, the PS 770 is like getting an Iwata Custom Micron for half price!

While lacquer thinner (I use Mr Color thinner, not the levelling version) works best before the putty sets, you can smooth it some with repeated applications, one it has dried. However unless there are details you are afraid of losing if you sand, sanding will definitely be the quicker option once it has dried.

I’ve never used X-22 in that manner, but I have sprayed other coats of Tamiya paint over it without problems

If you refer to WWII Olive Drab, it was OD 41 not ANA anything and it did vary from various manufacturers as well as fading/chalking in service. Larger aircraft such as the B-17 had sub assemblies arriving for final assembly already painted by the subcontractor so it is was quite possible to have these not quite matching even at time of production. Dana Bell even states in his booklet on OD and Neutral Gray that after the ANA colors were approved the Material Command (where actual USAAF paint orders and color approval occurred) that the companies were to to continue using 41 which was an acceptable substitute for ANA 613 and at least one company was apparently even advised to simply change the label on the paint cans to ANA 613! The emphasis here is to recognize that while a color standard did exist (OD 41), in practice there was variation in the actual color used and not to get caught up in trying to find the 'right' color since there were several.

Sorry, missed the 1/144 part😯

Not a deal breaker one way or the other I suspect, but the Airfix kit is the only 1/72 P-51D with correct main gear bays

Academy did a B-50, see https://www.scalemates.com/kits/academy-2112-b-50-d-superfortress--107377

Thick CA may give you the adjustment time you want

Another vote for Post-It notes or similar. I wont say Tamiya tape WILL remove decals but it definitely CAN since I have intentionally removed decals using it

Good, keep using the Testors Airbrush thinner for spraying Testors paints and use the lacquer thinner for clean-up

I have also found a couple of additional uses for those clear colors. The blue, orange, and yellow can be dry brushed on exhausts and exhaust collecting front cowl rings (Gladiator, Blenheim, etc) to help replicate the heat tarnished metal. Also if you do WWI aircraft with unpainted wood surfaces (Albatros), a light mist of orange or yellow can help give some depth to the wood's appearance.

I have used Tamiya's XF-86 clear flt on the last couple of models I finished and Tamiya's clear gloss for gloss coats, both thinned with X-20A. Haven't used any semi-gloss

Dont know about others' experiences with Aires, but the Aires cockpit sets I have attempted to use required extensive thinning of both the resin part and kit sides. Be prepared for lots of test fitting and take care

Everything I have seen says the new B-25 C/d is quite good, superior to the Italeri version.