Chuck1945

I discovered that too. I’m trying out a couple of other VMS products as well (flat coat and decal solutions) so shipment will be after they get a VMS resupply. I recently used Techmod decals on an Eduard Hellcat and the decals seem impervious to the softener solutions I tried so will check VMS’s offerings as well.

Thanks

US source?

I use Mr Color, Hataka Orange series, MRP, and some AK Real Colors - all are acrylic lacquers and I only use primer if I’m checking checking for construction blemishes.

I found it a few months ago (there was a thread on Hyperscale that included a link) in a shop in a Canadian shop. Shipping to the US was reasonable. No clue now regarding the name of the shop.

I had a silent-air for about 20 years and yeah, truely quiet. Mine was a direct connect to the airbrush hose with a moisture trap in between.

Looking on line, the ones I see come with a moisture trap and with an outlet to which your hose should directly attach. If not true in your case and it comes with a female quick-connect, you will need a corresponding male connection to attach your hose

Your choices leave some gaps/confusion. For example Tamiya and Gunze each have two series acrylic paints with one line that is alcohol based and one that is solvent based. Hataka has both water based and solvent based acrylics as does AK and MRP. If for example I choose Gunze and acrylic, does that count as solvent or alcohol acrylic?

I don’t use Vallejo often preferring the acrylic lacquers from Gunze, MRP, and others but when I do spray Vallejo I use a cocktail mix for thinning. There is a YouTube video here somewhere that explains it better, but basically the thinning mixture is approx 70% Flow Improver, 10% thinner and 20% retarder - all from Vallejo. Never tried Mission Models paint, read too many stories about problems with them.

I’m primarily a 1/72, WWII era single engine fighter model builder and find the large (17mm) tattoo ink cups invaluable for mixing the relatively small mounts of paint and thinner I usually need for airbrushing.

At least in my preferred scale of 1/72, trying to make the stripes appear less than perfectly masked and/or painted is quite hard. My default is to attempt perfect and it usually turns out ‘not quite’, so I figure it’s a win with either result😝

Any clear UV resin will work. It also can be used as a glue for clear parts. The mating surface for the opening part of this Meteor F.I was minimal and I couldn’t figure out a good way to brace while epoxy or CA dried so used UV resin. Easy enough to keep in place for the 10-15 seconds needed for it to cure.

When someone decides the demand is sufficiently more than the kit kit design, tooling and production costs to justify the investment.

Totally off topic, but… I went on USAF active duty after college in 1967. This was before MREs and the commissaries would occasionally sell surplus C rations. We would tease wondering if any still had Lucky Strike greens.

My parents were subscribers to the National Geographic for many years, including from about 1943 through the early 60s. I used to look through the wartime issues and still remember the Lucky Strike ads that would something like ‘ Lucky Strike Green has gone to war’ and showing the new red label