Chuck1945

I tried some blotch masks several years ago (10-15?) and went back to free handing a mottle camouflage. You need to have a jig to hold the model at the proper angle, one hand for the airbrush and another to position and hold the mask (or be quite dexterous and hold both the mask and model with one hand). The results looked nice as I best recall, but with one of the high end airbrushes you have, you ought to be able to free-hand the mottle - really thin paint and very low air pressure.

I’ve been spraying Tamiya paints using their X-20A for ten years and never a problem. Even though I use Mr Color Levelling Thinner when I spray Mr Color paint, I always use a Tamiya’s thinner for all the X/XF-series Tamiya paint including clear and clear flat. i did try using Mr Color thinner once with Tamiya paint, nothing bad happened, but didn’t see any improvement either so why bother.

As of my last order from Sealmodel, late March, they were able to ship a max of about eight 10ml Mr Color bottles by air, order took about 2-2 1/2 weeks

Ditto on Tamiya XF-86, Clear Flat. Do not get Tamiya Flat Base which is to be mixed with glossy paint to flatten them. Isopropyl will thin it if needed, or you could use Tamiya’s own thinner XF-20A. I apply with an airbrush but it could be brushed if desired

Like Chris, I would normally just go to Michaels and pick up a fine liner brush, but... Here is what Amazon has https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Fine+liner+paint+brush&ref=nb_sb_noss

Same thing with all my AKAN water based paints, all dried to a sledge, most bottles unopened. Add some Tamiya X-20A thinner and let it stand for a while, the paint will thin back out and be usable again. I bought mine at least ten years ago and was finally going to use them on the new Arma Yak-1b

Last year I completed five models, and that was an increase from the year before! I didn’t keep track but probably acquired at least 10, maybe 15, the stash is several hundred, so I suspect that at 75, even if I stopped buying new kits and ramped output up to 10/month, there is no way I’ld get through them.

I have a modeling friend who recommended Gunze’s Mr Color GX-100 Super Clear as the best for the gloss coat. After deciding to try it I ordered a bottle from Hong Kong (couldn’t find it from my usual US dealers). Once it arrived I just had to give it a try and to my dismay, the initial application looked more matt than gloss! Not sure what was happening, but as I continued to spray, it did end giving a nice gloss finish, but geez, the initial impression...

Should work, normally I use the manufacturers recommended thinners, but I have successfully used Mr Color Levelling Thinner with Tamiya paints. Do a test spray first if you want to be sure

XF-86 is currently my go to flat. I use it over Mr Color, MRP, and Tamiya. It thins just fine with Tamiya’s X-20A thinner

A friend of mine has his modeling set-up in the basement and also uses a roller cart and a Badger type booth that he can roll to the vented window when he wants to spray. Pretty simple arrangement so should be doable for you as well. Regarding your dining room window, would it be possible to cut a piece of plywood that will fit in the opening part of the window and mount your exhaust to that? The plywood insert could be made easily removable and only inserted when needed, so the normal window is usually the visible option

I really like my H&S Infinity. I’ve had it at least 10 years, and an Evolution for at least 15 years. Great brushes IMO, and very much easier to clean the the 1999 vintage Iwata HP-C they replaced. My one suggestion, and it is not airbrush brand specific, would be to invest in some Tamiya Air Brush cleaner (very effective dissolves most any paint I have tried) and spray 6-10 drops before you load your brush with paint just to ensure the brush is working properly and also do it as a final step after your normal cleaning process is complete. This way you know both before you start and after you are done, the brush is working correctly. I don’t use the stuff for routine cleaning, generic lacquer thinner works fine for that, but it does make sure all is ready as well as flushing out any bits the cleaning might have missed.

I’m resurrecting this thread with a spin-off question. I have a California Air Tools compressor and a long regular airbrush hose using QDs to connect with my airbrush. The brush has a male qd and the hose a female qd. I am in a relatively dry climate area and usually have no issue with water in the airflow, but ... Recently I have sprayed using the .4mm needle/nozzle combo with my H&S Infinity and have had what I think are water splotches (never noticed this using the .2 or .15mm needles) so looking at installing this between the current hose and brush, then adding an additional hose to connect the regulator and airbrush. I am unsure however, from the product description, just what additional fittings I will need to complete the set-up. I think all I need would be two more female connectors for the hose, but ... not sure.

I have both the H&S Evolution and Infinity but when I was having troubles with the H&S ones last year (the .2mm needle/nozzle was erratic) I got the PS770 and have enjoyed using it as well. Turned out the H&S issue was a nozzle issue that even magnifier viewing by a dealer was difficult to spot, so now I have three brushes with which I am quite satisfied. In all honesty, I prefer the H&S brushes simply because I can use a smaller paint cup on smaller jobs and can easily change between .15, .2 and .4mm needle/nozzles depending upon painting needs. As as the others have said, the PS 770 is like getting an Iwata Custom Micron for half price!

While lacquer thinner (I use Mr Color thinner, not the levelling version) works best before the putty sets, you can smooth it some with repeated applications, one it has dried. However unless there are details you are afraid of losing if you sand, sanding will definitely be the quicker option once it has dried.