Chuck1945

For foam I use the packing foam Harry & David use in their fruit boxes but more often I just tear a piece of paper towel dampen it and fit it into the opening much like Arnobiz described with TP

I use the larger Pace booth, the Pacemaker, vented outside. It is probably too big but I use the large size to inevitably pile up painting supplies such as mixing cups, close-up glasses, nitrile gloves, etc.

With no paint in the cup, will just air come out the tip when you depress and pull back the trigger? If air is coming out under pressure, there is probably nothing wrong with the airline and air flow from the compressor. If air is coming out but paint or even water in the cup bubbles back up into the cup, something is restricting the paint flow. I’m not familiar with the Talon, it’s been perhaps 30 years since I used a Paasche brush, so I can’t offer any Talon specific advice, but if air is flowing and paint is bubbling back it is most likely something in the paint flow system, nozzle that isn

I've stabbed myself more than once by accident with these. However if you have bent the tips of yours in normal use these may not be sturdy enough. The fine tips are really designed for delicate work not heavy duty stuff.

Does air come out the tip? If yes but you get bubbles back into the paint cup most often that is a result of the nozzle needing a thorough cleaning. https://www.midwestairbrush.com/patapa.html Part TT in the diagram is probably the culprit. Give it a good soaking in paint thinner and then clean it out, I use these dental brushes - 10 pack found in the dental section of groceries and drug stores.

How much do you want to spend. I have two pair similar to these

I generally use the PVA white glues although in the last year or so so I’ve been making more use of the UV curing clear resin, if you get too much on or in the wrong spot it will clean up with alcohol if you haven’t yet cured it. I’ve a friend who uses 5-minute clear drying epoxy so as not to worry about the canopy coming adrift during masking, painting, etc. That too will clean up with alcohol if wiped off before hardening.

I have ordered from them 2-3 times, but the most recent was perhaps early 2021. The ordering was process was a bit different; as best I recall, place an order, then get an email telling you the order was received and requesting a PayPal payment. I mostly just ordered Mr Color and the then new Tamiya lacquers. As both product lines became more available in the US, I quit ordering from Seal.

I had seen the advertisements and in 1968 I had orders to 3AF HQ in the London area. Since I was departing via Dover AFB, and had to drop my car off at Bayonne NJ, I looked up the Official outlet and bought a bunch of paints that I hand carried on the plane. I think I actually was able to paint one model with them before the entire batch turned to pudding. At least the Humbrol Authentics I subsequently purchased in the UK g AC be commendable service

I used to use Tamiya’s X-20A as a thinner for all the Tamiya X and XF series paints but since adding their acrylic lacquers (LP series) and Mr Color to my paint stash, I just use the Gunze Mr Color Levelling Thinner for all of them. No particular ratio although my starting point is about 50-50, then adding more thinner till the desired consistency is reached. In 55 years of airbrush use I’ve never had a set ratio, just whatever works.

The varnish is acrylic and water soluble so it should be no problem. I've used it a few times, but mostly just use Tamiya XF 86, Clear Flat. The W-N flat will appear approximately semi gloss when applied and it can take up to several hours for it to completely dry flat.

My CA purchase and use rules: 1) buy the smallest possible container to minimize losses if it goes bad 2) after use and before putting the lid back on, 'burp" the bottle ( holding the tip up, squeeze to bottle to bubble out any residue CA still in the tip). No guarantee the bottle will last longer, but it helps. I have one that I have been using for a year (opened in 2021 and last used about 3-4 weeks ago).

I just used the 1/72 version of that sheet about a month ago (Gentile’s markings) and it was just fine. Don’t recall how long I’ve actually had the decals, but at least a year.

Even when I think I have adequately tightened the lid on Mr Color paint jars, the paint often thickens in storage. This is one brand of paint that can be thinned still in the jar without side effects. Mr Replenishing Agent will work miracles bring old thick paint back to life.

In the picture you just posted Gwen, the jar type on the right is what I’m currently getting albeit with a flat top. The last time I actually had any Gunze in the lids with a ‘handle’ was with metallics around 1990. I too wonder if it is different packaging for different markets? I bought the aqueous from the mid 80s through about 2015 when I switched to the Mr Color version and, except for some metallics as I just mentioned, all have had flat lids. That said I have some of the aqueous Gunze paints for 20+ years and they are still fine. The Mr Color tend to thicken but adding more levelling