Chuck1945

I just used the 1/72 version of that sheet about a month ago (Gentile’s markings) and it was just fine. Don’t recall how long I’ve actually had the decals, but at least a year.

Even when I think I have adequately tightened the lid on Mr Color paint jars, the paint often thickens in storage. This is one brand of paint that can be thinned still in the jar without side effects. Mr Replenishing Agent will work miracles bring old thick paint back to life.

In the picture you just posted Gwen, the jar type on the right is what I’m currently getting albeit with a flat top. The last time I actually had any Gunze in the lids with a ‘handle’ was with metallics around 1990. I too wonder if it is different packaging for different markets? I bought the aqueous from the mid 80s through about 2015 when I switched to the Mr Color version and, except for some metallics as I just mentioned, all have had flat lids. That said I have some of the aqueous Gunze paints for 20+ years and they are still fine. The Mr Color tend to thicken but adding more levelling

Can’t say with authority but I’ve been buying Mr Color paints from USA and Chinese vendors for the past six years and all have normal (flat top) lids

I build 1/72, props mostly, no modern jets. I did build an Eduard Hellcat in a 48 hour challenge, spending perhaps 20-22 hours actually working on it. More typically total time is usually 20-30 hours, but spread out over days, weeks, and months. Last year I completed eight kits and had what I thought was a doable goal of 12 this year. However a severe case of summer doldrums as well as loosing a month to preparations for hosting a family reunion has meant I’ll need to scramble to get more than the four I’ve already finished done this year.

Very subjective. I went from a Badger 150 to an Iwata HP-C about 25 years ago and then got the H&S Evolution about six years later and haven’t used the Iwata since. For me the Iwata was a real PITA to clean compared the either the Evolution or my subsequent purchase of the H&S Infinity.

And in some instances both outboard guns were removed.

Size. My preferred scale is 1/72, but 1/144 makes the larger aircraft possible without adding a storage hanger to my house

Hannants is one source with their Xtradecal range https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X72036?result-token=KYlBy

The small bumps will be ok, but the larger heating duct fairing will require more stretch than many decals will have. I went through several roundels on a 1/72 scale Tamiya Spitfire before deciding to simply mask and paint the roundel. If you opt for paint, you could either use a roundel painting mask or just pre-paint the vent in the whatever roundel color will be over it and then hope for the best when the decal tears 😉

Yes, the Hataka Orange line are brushable acrylic lacquers, they need to be thinned for spraying . They have their own thinner, and while I have used it, they also look to work quite with Mr Color Levelling Thinner, my ‘go to’ for any acrylic lacquer needing thinning if sprayed.

If I am going to actually finish a model I need to stick with it. I can have a couple in process at a time, but so far I have never completed one I had previously set aside to start something. I have hope I can actually get around to finishing the Tamiya Mosquito IV being converted to a IX that I set aside early this year. I fear the Airfix Ju 87B will never get finished and the ones I set aside at least a year or more ago, some sitting there since 2001 and earlier, will never get pulled back out. Too many new kits grab my attention to think about the oldies. I had good intentions when each wa

Could be, IIRC MM used to bottle what they called neutral gray as FS 36270. I see several others are calling FS 36270 Medium Gray. Assuming neutral gray is Tamiya’s color callout, that is XF-53 and is lighter than at least the official WWII 43 (Neutral Gray) color. I’m a WWII era modeler, no knowledge of modern color usage beyond what is usually marketed as Neutral Gray 43 is lighter than the actual WWII standard.

WWII Neutral Gray 43 was a dark gray although based on many photos, there was a good bit of variability. FS 36270 Neutral Gray is a lighter color than its WWII predecessor. Whether or not Mr Paint’s gray is more like the modern or historical, I cannot say.

The question remains, why are you sharpening your airbrush needle? If the problem began occurring after you sharpened it, that is a good clue that perhaps sharpening isn’t a good idea. If you have an unsharpened needle, try using it and see if the problem persists. Compared with perhaps the needles in H&S airbrushes, the Iwata needle is not as pointy sharp but people use the Iwata without problems and without sharpening the needle