Chuck1945

My first was also a Paasche H, purchased new in 1967 with one of my first payments as a brand new USAF ‘butter bar’. It is still around here somewhere.

Every couple of days, mostly to see if this is still here

Try on a test piece. My experience, quite dated, is that a buffable metallic is prone to lifting when masked over.

Try the one ones you have, mix in a separate cup not the airbrush in case one results in a gooey mess.

I’ve no knowledge of these, but if they behave at all like the Eduard and SH decals that have removable film make sure they are well set into any panel lines or other surface irregularities else removing the film will lift the unattached part of the decal.

We lived in Pullman WA, home of Washington State University, for 19 years, moving to outside Spokane when my wife retired at the end of 2019. We still have many friends there and attended a 70th birthday party for one of them on a Saturday night, my Pullman/Moscow IPMS club met the next day so I opted to stay over instead of making the 150 mile round trip again on Sunday. It was also the first weekend for students at both WSU and the University of Idaho as well as Pullman’s National Lentil Festival. What would have been a $140 room the week before was $300; fortunately I had enough points to c

I have one, it works well and stays put. I like that it fits my various sized paint containers from the 17ml drip top to the 23ml Tamiya bottles. It also has an automatic timer that will turn itself after x seconds so you can can start it shaking and leave it alone while you continue to do other ‘before actual painting’ preparatory steps. I have arthritis in both hands so hand shaking or stirring is something I try to avoid.

The only really old built kit I have an Airfix 1/72 Gladiator built in ‘71 or thereabouts, Humbrol enamels and rub-on decals. The reason it has survived with only one rigging wire coming undone is due to it packed away for most of the time so no sun exposure and no paint shifts. Except for perhaps 3-4 models including that Gladiator, all built ones were tossed when we moved from PA to WA in 2001.

If Fantasy Printshop is still around (it was for sale last time I saw) they used to have quite an assortment of WWII Luftwaffe letter and number sets in different sizes with and without outlines. Perhaps worth a check.

Buy one and find out

Another Flickr user here, you can store up to 1000 images in a free account. More would require Flickr Pro.

Simple Green and elbow grease successfully removed Tamiya XF series paint from a failed experiment on an Airfix 1/72 Swordfish several years ago.

I think your interpretation mixing silver and white is correct. I tried that several years using Tamiya XF series flat aluminum and white but was unhappy with results, too grainy. Tamiya’s XF flat aluminum has subsequ3ntly been redone and is smoother. Regardless, I would now choose their LP (lacquer) version. I don’t have any Gunze silvers so can’t really address that, but if the intent of their mix formula is to produce a flatter, not quite silver look, flat aluminum would probably work.

I discovered that too. I’m trying out a couple of other VMS products as well (flat coat and decal solutions) so shipment will be after they get a VMS resupply. I recently used Techmod decals on an Eduard Hellcat and the decals seem impervious to the softener solutions I tried so will check VMS’s offerings as well.

Thanks

US source?

I use Mr Color, Hataka Orange series, MRP, and some AK Real Colors - all are acrylic lacquers and I only use primer if I’m checking checking for construction blemishes.

I found it a few months ago (there was a thread on Hyperscale that included a link) in a shop in a Canadian shop. Shipping to the US was reasonable. No clue now regarding the name of the shop.

I had a silent-air for about 20 years and yeah, truely quiet. Mine was a direct connect to the airbrush hose with a moisture trap in between.

Looking on line, the ones I see come with a moisture trap and with an outlet to which your hose should directly attach. If not true in your case and it comes with a female quick-connect, you will need a corresponding male connection to attach your hose

Your choices leave some gaps/confusion. For example Tamiya and Gunze each have two series acrylic paints with one line that is alcohol based and one that is solvent based. Hataka has both water based and solvent based acrylics as does AK and MRP. If for example I choose Gunze and acrylic, does that count as solvent or alcohol acrylic?

I don’t use Vallejo often preferring the acrylic lacquers from Gunze, MRP, and others but when I do spray Vallejo I use a cocktail mix for thinning. There is a YouTube video here somewhere that explains it better, but basically the thinning mixture is approx 70% Flow Improver, 10% thinner and 20% retarder - all from Vallejo. Never tried Mission Models paint, read too many stories about problems with them.

I’m primarily a 1/72, WWII era single engine fighter model builder and find the large (17mm) tattoo ink cups invaluable for mixing the relatively small mounts of paint and thinner I usually need for airbrushing.

At least in my preferred scale of 1/72, trying to make the stripes appear less than perfectly masked and/or painted is quite hard. My default is to attempt perfect and it usually turns out ‘not quite’, so I figure it’s a win with either result😝

Any clear UV resin will work. It also can be used as a glue for clear parts. The mating surface for the opening part of this Meteor F.I was minimal and I couldn’t figure out a good way to brace while epoxy or CA dried so used UV resin. Easy enough to keep in place for the 10-15 seconds needed for it to cure.