Chuck1945

When someone decides the demand is sufficiently more than the kit kit design, tooling and production costs to justify the investment.

Totally off topic, but… I went on USAF active duty after college in 1967. This was before MREs and the commissaries would occasionally sell surplus C rations. We would tease wondering if any still had Lucky Strike greens.

My parents were subscribers to the National Geographic for many years, including from about 1943 through the early 60s. I used to look through the wartime issues and still remember the Lucky Strike ads that would something like ‘ Lucky Strike Green has gone to war’ and showing the new red label

I often use a Bondic set (UV curing clear resin and UV light) for attaching canopies. Takes about 15-20 seconds but you do need to keep the parts in place while you use the UV light to cure the resin. 5-minute clear epoxy is another alternative with the potential advantage of being able to clean up any smears with a Q-tip dipped denatured alcohol before the epoxy cures (let it set enough that the canopy holds in place, then gently rub any excess off)

I built a nice display cabinet using 3/4” plywood with glass shelves and sliding doors, that was more than 50 years ago so I don’t remember dimensions. I subsequently packed and unpacked models for three major moves, the next one we were probably going to have to help pay moving costs so I sold the case, that was in 1993. I’ve drawn up plans a couple of times to make a new one but so far haven’t done so. I can say from experience once models are packed away, unless there is new space available, they don’t see light of day again. I’ve ended up tossing almost all the models built from 1967-2001

Interesting video, thanks for sharing. Perhaps 20 years ago when Aeromaster folded there was an attempt to replace them backed at least in part by Eagle Strike called Color of Eagles(at least that is what I remember). The paint was produced by Vallejo and I got some of the colors to try. My initial impression was that these were the smoothest spraying acrylics I had ever tried. Digression here; I had been using Polly Scale and while I liked the paint, I could never do anything like a Luftwaffe mottle, tip clogging, no matter what I tried, always occurred. So the smooth spraying of tho

I’m one of those acrylic lacquer users, but… I find these links quite interesting and am now using water based acrylics more for interiors. Will Tamiya X-20A (the water/alcohol thinner) work with AMMO by MiG?

They spray just fine straight from the bottle using my H&S Infinity w/0.2mm needle and tip. They are not suitable for brush work, a single pass using a brush for minor touch-up will usually work. Also as mentioned it will usually take two coats, fortunately they dry fast enough that you can just keep spraying, no need to wait between coats. I’m expecting to use at least half a bottle when I get to my 1/72 Buccaneer in overall Operation Granby pink.

One suggestion would be to dip your mask if a glass of water just before applying. Strange as this might sound, it does allow some wiggle ability as you place the mask, the water preventing, or at least hindering, the mask adhesive from grabbing the plastic.

Depends on your definition of a deep clean. I always spray thinner through the brush after each color; if I’m doing more than one color and it is possible to do the darker one second, the spray through after the first color is all the cleaning I will do before doing the second, darker color. When a session is over, I’ll remove the needle and nozzle and clean thoroughly. I’ve kept the clear plastic tubes that the needles I use arrive in, and will always store the needle and nozzle/spray cap in those (a piece of foam separates the needle from the tip). Years ago I had problems with the needle ge

I use acrylic lacquers for spray painting and clean up with generic lacquer thinner. For last last couple of years I’ve also started any airbrush session by spraying 1/4-1/2 paint cupful through the airbrush using Tamiya (or Gunze) Airbrush Cleaner just to be sure everything is good to go.

MRP acrylic lacquers are airbrush ready, no thinning required, I don’t have any of their GPW colors so can’t comment directly but their WWII US, German, and RAF/FAA colors are all good. I’ve only used one MRP water based acrylic and it definitely require thinning to spray. Hataka also does VVS colors in their Orange line (again acrylic lacquer), they also have Red and Blue lines that are water based acrylics but no experience with them.

Is that corded or battery powered? The eBay listing doesn’t say, or at least I’ve missed it.

I too have the Dremel 8050. For years, at least 40, I used a corded Dremel with Dremel’s speed control unit that could slow it down to almost 0 RPM, my only gripe was the lack of torque at slow speeds. Perhaps five or six years ago I got the battery powered 8050, I’m not a heavy user of the tool so I have probably only recharged the battery twice. Like John said the slowest indicated speed is 5000RPM, although again, echoing John, it doesn’t it really is seem that fast and as I use it mostly just for drill holes or gentle grinding, I’ve not melted any plastic yet. Battery operated means no cor

Blu-Tak works too, in the US a similar product is Blu_Tack. Works well for camouflage masking, but so well for straight lines.

I had heard good things about Vallejo flat so gave it a try, it went on glossy and dried glossy. No clue if operator error or mis-labeled but since I had other choices that knew worked, out it went. I originally used Tamiya’s X-20A thinner with their gloss and flat. While it worked fine, I’m using Gunze and Tamiya acrylic lacquers for most of my painting thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner so am mostly using that for Tamiya X and XF series paints as well.

I’ll respond, you are using a product of which I’m totally unaware and I suspect this might be true for other readers as well. Over the years I’ve used Micro gloss and flat, dullcoat, Future, tried Vallejo flat once and threw it away, Gunze glosses, now mostly just Tamiya clear gloss (X-22) and clear flat (XF-86)

I’m a very happy 20+ year H&S user.The only issue I had was due to user error. I had upgraded from 20 years of using syphon feed brushes (Paasche H and Badger 150) to a HP-C, really liked the results but hated the the tiny nozzle and it’s bitty little wrench. Replaced it within five years with an Evolution w/.15 &.2mm needle/nozzle combinations), never looked back. In my use, there isn’t any performance difference and the H&S is much easier to clean. I did get a Procon 770 when the H&S was down for maintenance, it was new on the market and getting good rev

I think I got those from Sprue Bros a few years and agree with Helmsman and utley. I don’t do jets so no idea if they would work on intake interiors, but when I have used them it has been for pin point sanding.

Link?

I’ve used Mr Color Leveling twice on clear parts that had inadvertently sprayed with Mr Color paints. In both cases the parts were slightly fogged afterwards but I’m not sure if the paint or thinner caused the fogging. Buffing and Future helped restore them.

Since installing a paint booth I’ve gone to Mr Color, MRP, Hataka Orange, and the Tamiya LP range, all acrylic lacquers. As already mentioned, my impression too is that AK Real Colors is also an acrylic lacquer. Hardware store generic lacquer thinner for clean-up and Mr Color Levelling Thinner when thinning is necessary for spraying. Changing the topic a bit, is there a US source for individual bottles of AK Real Color? I’ve usually just seen them in box sets.

Currently my favorite to actually build are the Arma 1/72 Hurricanes. I have at least six built and close to a dozen more in the stash

For foam I use the packing foam Harry & David use in their fruit boxes but more often I just tear a piece of paper towel dampen it and fit it into the opening much like Arnobiz described with TP

I use the larger Pace booth, the Pacemaker, vented outside. It is probably too big but I use the large size to inevitably pile up painting supplies such as mixing cups, close-up glasses, nitrile gloves, etc.