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ausf

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About ausf

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  1. I'm impressed with what you guys do in terms of cleaning, I feel lazy in comparison. I've been using the same HP-BC2 for 30 years, original needle and nozzle and it still works as good as the day I got it. It's only been used for Tamiya acrylic, Vallejo and Future for the past 10 or so years, before then, all different mediums, ink, goache, artist acyrlics, etc. After spraying, I fill the cup with water to dilute, spray a bit (paint usually floats to the top) and dump. I stick the front of the AB in a vessel of water to flush further, pull the needle out (the back) and wipe on a paper towel.
  2. I have a HP-BC2 that is about 30 years old with the original needle. I spray all the same paints and mediums you do without issues at all different pressures and viscosities. The only time I've ever had any trouble similar to what you describe is if the nozzle cap gets clogged (very unusual). I'm not familiar with the Neo, but if it has a separate needle cap and nozzle cap, remove both and check for buildup. If there is buildup around the nozzle or inside the cap, try spraying without the needle cap.
  3. I've been using an acrylic binder (Bindex) to adhere PE for years. It has better shear strength than CA, slower drying time and you can clean it off the mesh with a wet brush before it dries. I've used it for PE on 1/16 RC tanks that are still on after 10 years of crashing through brush, etc. It's what artist's acrylic paints are made of, without the pigment. Bindex is the only one I've used (I've had the same quart of it since the early 90s) but any art store should carry a binder for the paint line they sell. Think of it as white glue on steroids.
  4. As I understand it, Tenax, Tamiya, ProWeld, PlastiWeld, etc are all MEK based. The only difference is in additives that slow evaporation. I've used straight MEK (good luck finding it now) on ABS and it literally evaporates as fast as you apply it, so the plasticizers and extenders just make it easier to use. You could try any of the many MEK based glues available to find one you like as much as Tenax or as mentioned, create you own. If you mix your own, you could adjust viscosity and evaporation times at will.
  5. Vallejo sells a retarder which works well, but I prefer using a wet pallet if I'm doing alot of fine detail or painting faces. If you're not familiar, it's basically a shallow box with a flat sponge and sheets of paper that can stay moist for extended periods, therefore keeping the paint wet. It seals well when not in use, I've kept colors wet for month or longer. For short periods, you could probably use heavy paper with a damp paper towel underneath. One tip for Vallejo: shake shake and shake again. They are great paints but are a bear to blend once they separate. Another paint company tha
  6. Exactly. Just like Vick, McNabb, Cunningham, etc, the 'new wave' always crashes in a heap of twisted knees and broken ribs. The option QB doesn't hold up in the NFL when equally gifted positional players are colliding with them. It's always the same, 'this guy is going to change the way the game is played' until opponents gets some film on them, divisional teams reorganize their defenses and the guy gets pounded. Once pounded, they start to stray from their reads and then relying more on their legs, making them more susceptible to injury. RGIII seemed like the ideal guy, but Shanahan couldn't
  7. I'm new to Aircraft modeling and the forum, but not to modeling in general (mostly armor). I'm surprised to hear issues with Future and an airbrush. I've been spraying it for at least 10 years now without the slightest trouble with clogging. I too only have one AB, the same Iwata HP-BC2 I bought in the mid 80s, still using the original nozzle and needle. I dump the remaining Future, refill the cup about halfway with Windex, shoot that through, attach a bottle with alcohol. shoot that for a few seconds, wipe the needle down, then a few more seconds with water and put it away.
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