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jbrundt

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Everything posted by jbrundt

  1. I've switched to Floquil's reefer white myself and love it. For big white jobs I use Krylon gloss white (in a can). I apply grey auto primer first in a very light tie coat (just to give the color something to stick to) The I apply many, many light, light, light layers of white. The key is too not try to do too much at once. I let each thin coat dry then shoot the next. And so on.... It produces excellent results. See th white stuff on my web page if you doubt me. Jeff
  2. Actually Windex with ammonia. Ammonia is the deadly enemy of Future. I'm surprised you got an uneven coat. I usually have great success with dipping clear parts. How did you set them down to dry? I'll place mine on an absorbent shop towel (like those found in the Rags in a Box from Home Depot). That way the excess Future won't pool and is given a way off the part. hth Jeff
  3. Be thankful you weren't using Bondo or two part epoxy. Both of these are exothermic in reaction and generate heat during the cure process. I've seen fires start from two part epoxy curing in a confined area due to the intense heat build up. Those of you using epoxy to hold nose weight in place should immerse the section on the model in water to help control the temp rise. As for squadron putty (and most automotive spot putties) these are solvent based and the solvents they use are highly reactive to styrene. That's why it's a good idea to apply them in thin layers so the solvent can out-gas.
  4. I routinely thin Floquil reefer white with lacquer thinner with no problem. I thin it to the consistency of milk. Most Floquil paints are thin enough already so not much is needed. I've found it dries faster using the lacquer thinner. Mineral spirits work as well but the drying time is a bit longer. You may want to check the pressure you're spraying at. It sounds like it might be too low. Try around 20psi (what I use). hth Jeff
  5. Ambroid Pro-Weld is what I use. I apply it with a variety of detail paint brushes when the included one with the cap is too big. Stuff works great and is fast. Also helps fill small gaps/seams as well. Jeff
  6. stored in ziplocks in a drawer unit in the basement workshop....totally environmetally controlled Jeff :)
  7. The 'radome tan' color you see is actually the natural color of the composite material (usually fiberglass) that the radome is made of. Actually it's the color of the resin. I seems that by the late 70's and early 80's most radomes were painted. I would think that certain radar systems had 'transparency' requirements on the radome which dictated if it could be painted. Putting a coat of paint on there could distort the radar signal. You see a lot of Phantoms with what looks like a black radome but in actuality it's the material the radome is made from. There are also di-electric panels on
  8. I've used a badger 350 for many years. Look in the gallery section for my Bf-109G-6, Fw-190F8, BF-110G-2, F-15, F-14, Sptifire Mk I, MH-60 helo or F-16 (look for the ones by Jeff Brundt). You'll see these were all done with a Badger 350. It is a fine airbrush and very well suited for a beginner on a budget. I had mine for over 15 years and still use it. If anyone tells you that you can't use it for models then they are flat out wrong! I'm attaching my B-17 done with the 350 (yes, even the post shading on the panel lines) Jeff :wacko:
  9. I've used Floquil's 'grimy black' before with good success. you may want to give that a try....... hth Jeff
  10. Just wanted to add Jerry Richardson to the list of good traders. I recently completed a deal with him for a 1/32 P-40. It was a pleasant experience. Two thumbs way, way up for Jerry! :blink: Jeff
  11. The only time a real thorough cleaning is necessary is before you spray white, especially from the color cup. Other than that a quick spray though of solvent after each color is adequate. Jeff
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