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General Grievous

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Everything posted by General Grievous

  1. Thanks for the info guys! A last question: is "activated charcoal" and air conditioning filters enough to trap all bad fumes from enamels and acrylic paint? GG
  2. I've found some bottles of "Modeler's decal fit" at sale, does any one know how good is it? Is it like Mr. Maker Softner? GG
  3. I will wear a mask all the time, I'm concerned about paint getting onto the furniture, books, computer, etc. I'm still not sure on what to do... Need to find where to buy "activated charcoal" filters, etc. I read in another thread about using a can full of water that would help trap paint particles... Maybe if I improvise a filter pointing the air duct into a sealed can with water and charcoal filters... GG
  4. Hey, I have the following problem: I'm improvising a spray booth, almost got it all together already BUT... the room I plan to use as a "paint shop" has only one window which must be closed most of the time (don't ask me why) and I can't make any hole on the wall, etc. My question: Does anyone know how could I improvise a "super filter" with readily available stuff from a hardware depot to use in such cubicle? I have a 125mm duct/ventilator/duct attached to the spray booth, but I don't know how to process the contaminated air safely. Thanks for any help! GG
  5. Are you referring to the regular Tamiya putty with an orange cap? I think it shrinks quite a lot, therefore I usually apply many layers letting each one dry a day or so. GG
  6. Isn't there any danger doing this? If someone puts the can inside water just below boiling temperature could the can explode or something? I know most people won't do this, but a child could read this and try with too hot water. Or am I being paranoic? GG
  7. I've only used lacquer thinner.... (low pressure, various thin coats (as the thinner will attack the plastic), airbrush tip close to the model)
  8. Hey, I'm encouraged to give that old bottle of Mr. Surfacer 500 another try! My first results were so disasterous, I just about pitched the bottle into the trash. I'll have to try thinning a bit more. I feared additional thinning would simply create a rougher surface with the paint drying "in-flight" to the surface. Thanks! I believe the important thing about Mr. Surfacer 500 is to thin it appropriately and spray it with the tip of the airbrush very close to the model, applying the primer in small quantities. Otherwise it will dry before reaching the surface and you'll get the famous "
  9. I've searched www.modelwarships.com but coudn't find the thread... I'm really interested in finding alternative high quality primers, since Gunze products are hard to find here... Thanks, GG
  10. I'd recommend using a very cheap model and spend some time just playing with the airbrush, as others have said. You can remove the paint from the model using bleach, alchool , etc and do many passes until you start to get the hang of it... You can use the same model to train/test painting schemes before painting that very expensive Hasegawa F-18 someday you will build <_<
  11. You guys airbrush directly over blue-tak? I thought it was used to adhere a mask on the model, with a very small vertical separation...
  12. I couldn't find this kit at revell.de ... is it an old kit? Or is it the same as Italeri's? Thanks, GG
  13. The "Testors white putty" you all are referring to... is that "Testors Countour putty"?
  14. There are some real painting jobs that look like they used some kind of mask, like the current Mod Eagles... I know that probably these were made free hand too (just more carefully as mentioned)... In some you can see the overspray clearly while in others the separation is very precise: I think with Mod Eagles and Mirages 2000 one could use a mask and get good results. Is there any magic product which could be used directly for masking precise spray patterns without giving too much straight edge? GG
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