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mogin

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About mogin

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    Melbourne, Australia

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  1. Love that paint job. Thanks for taking the time.
  2. Think it's the CJ boxing. Thanks for great info and picture. The CTAM 9, isn't just a normal AIM 9L panted blue?
  3. Thanks, I will be doing it oob, doubt I will be able to spring for extra cockpits too. I happy with having a slightly incorrect airframe but I wouldn't mind getting the load outs approximately right. Cheers.
  4. Thanks very much for the great replies. Im doing them in 1/32. In my stash, I already have an Academy 18A+ and the Tamiya F-16. Sadly neither of these will do what I need OOB so I will follow your suggestions and look online for aftermarket stuff. It looks like I also have most, if not all the decals I need for an arctic aggressor F-16. The F18 is destined to be done in VFC-12's 'Ambush' splinter pattern, I can get masks for that but will need to handprint some of the decals. Thanks very much for the help.
  5. Hi there, Im looking at building two of these birds as splinter camo and arctic aggressor, respectively. Im not expert so I wanted to know what is usually mounted on such aircraft, and where could I get the necessary aftermarket pods etc.... Thanks B.
  6. Hi there, If anyone has one of these magic sets that are not going to be used, please let me know how much you would want for them. Ta B.
  7. Hi There, Would anyone here know if there is a cockpit detail set for Revell's 1/32 Mig-29 UB/GT. I cant seem to find anything at all, not even photoetch. Its a woeful pit. Looks like they sanded it almost flat before boxing. If anyone has any suggestions that don't involve tons of scratch building, Im all ears! Thanks Ben
  8. mogin

    Weathering

    I'm starting my first black based bird. Seems like a more controlable method.
  9. Ok well I have reached a conclusion. Getting that first intake off was hard. The second is well stuck down and it's a complicated job. Both the external edges of the rear nacelles have come free on their own. The intakes hold the wheel bays in position, if I stuff around with that then I also risk compromising the stability of the finished product. However, if I push the rear nacelles out by a mm then I will effectively push the engine mountings back from their required position which is a lot better then pushing them in. If I correct the rear nacelles I reckon I can do it with a hair dryer
  10. Yes the fit is indeed horrible. I can choose to correct the front parts which could give me grief with the wheel bays or correct the rear which give will impact the engines.
  11. Yes the fit is indeed horrible. I can choose to correct the front parts which could give me grief with the wheel bays or correct the rear which give will impact the engines.
  12. Awesome, I remember seeing this in the Ike shop again and again. Saving up my pocket money and almost buying it but it just never quite did it for me. And here it is again 35 years later. Still not quite doing it for me. Thanks for nostalgia.
  13. Re freezer, I've gone as far as I can with that. It's helped, for sure but these parts are really on tight. I'm just struggling with which part to correct, front or back.
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