mogin

Love that paint job. Thanks for taking the time.

Thanks ... Heaps :)

Think it's the CJ boxing. Thanks for great info and picture. The CTAM 9, isn't just a normal AIM 9L panted blue?

Thanks, I will be doing it oob, doubt I will be able to spring for extra cockpits too. I happy with having a slightly incorrect airframe but I wouldn't mind getting the load outs approximately right. Cheers.

I got some too... Let me know if you need more.

Thanks very much for the great replies. Im doing them in 1/32. In my stash, I already have an Academy 18A+ and the Tamiya F-16. Sadly neither of these will do what I need OOB so I will follow your suggestions and look online for aftermarket stuff. It looks like I also have most, if not all the decals I need for an arctic aggressor F-16. The F18 is destined to be done in VFC-12's 'Ambush' splinter pattern, I can get masks for that but will need to handprint some of the decals. Thanks very much for the help.

Hi there, Im looking at building two of these birds as splinter camo and arctic aggressor, respectively. Im not expert so I wanted to know what is usually mounted on such aircraft, and where could I get the necessary aftermarket pods etc.... Thanks B.

Hi there, If anyone has one of these magic sets that are not going to be used, please let me know how much you would want for them. Ta B.

Hi There, Would anyone here know if there is a cockpit detail set for Revell's 1/32 Mig-29 UB/GT. I cant seem to find anything at all, not even photoetch. Its a woeful pit. Looks like they sanded it almost flat before boxing. If anyone has any suggestions that don't involve tons of scratch building, Im all ears! Thanks Ben

I'm starting my first black based bird. Seems like a more controlable method.

Ok well I have reached a conclusion. Getting that first intake off was hard. The second is well stuck down and it's a complicated job. Both the external edges of the rear nacelles have come free on their own. The intakes hold the wheel bays in position, if I stuff around with that then I also risk compromising the stability of the finished product. However, if I push the rear nacelles out by a mm then I will effectively push the engine mountings back from their required position which is a lot better then pushing them in. If I correct the rear nacelles I reckon I can do it with a hair dryer

Yes the fit is indeed horrible. I can choose to correct the front parts which could give me grief with the wheel bays or correct the rear which give will impact the engines.

Yes the fit is indeed horrible. I can choose to correct the front parts which could give me grief with the wheel bays or correct the rear which give will impact the engines.

Awesome, I remember seeing this in the Ike shop again and again. Saving up my pocket money and almost buying it but it just never quite did it for me. And here it is again 35 years later. Still not quite doing it for me. Thanks for nostalgia.

Re freezer, I've gone as far as I can with that. It's helped, for sure but these parts are really on tight. I'm just struggling with which part to correct, front or back.

The difference is greater than the thickness of plastic. I can flex the parts from what I can see, to get a flush fit. The question is, which side needs correcting?

Hi. I bought a part built trumpeter tomcat of someone. It was a bargain. Problem is that the underside intake parts don't go together very well and have been assembled as is. I am reluctant to pull all the bits off as it would be traumatic for the plastic and would rather leave it than bugger the kit. Underside of fuselage, the curved parts and intakes that house the engine are in two peices which don't line up. What was your solution? Is it the intake part that needs correcting (pushing down /in) or the back half (pushing up/out) and filling the gaps?

This

Hiya, Title says it all. The kit is boxed, unstarted but not bagged. AUD $135

Thats an interesting idea. Thanks

Hi I have a received a part built kit. I want to undo some of the decision making of the previous builder and correct a couple of faults. However, the builder has used poly cement and I can't easily separate the pieces. Any strategies here? Thanks Ben

Yep, looks like italeri. Thanks guys.

Typical delivered price of a gwh fulcrum 9-12 down here in Australia is about AU$85.

Hiya, I'm struggling to find build reviews of the academy 48th hornet's. Does anyone know if they go together ok or are they full of gaps etc. Thanks Ben

Thanks.