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Everything posted by ojay

  1. Thanks for the link Silenoz, I have several links and a scale plan of the AA but can't be bothered to get too involved. This is just a basic build out of the box, as I have other models on the go at the moment. Just needed to have a rest while I sorted some problems out on them.
  2. Back in 1957 as an 8 year old, a neighbour who was in the RAF, showed me a model he had just finished. I had only been making models for 2 yrs and mostly Airfix/Frog/Lindberg aircraft, but I was in awe of this enormous army vehicle. Having asked my parents if I could have this kit for Christmas, they told me they couldn't afford it. . £1 10s 6d was quite a sum of money in those days, and at the time I was so disappointed, but I now realise how hard times were for them. Jump forward to 2014 and while browsing E-bay model sections, this model of my childhood dreams app
  3. Finally managed to get back to this after some major surgery (to self) Having now realised that when fully assembled that it wouldn't fit into my little car, had to have a rethink and decided to break it down into 3 sections. Bow/Centre/Stern, large heavy duty magnets recessed into the bulkheads help keep each section joined together. Doing this required the control runs and prop/intermediate shafts to be realigned. Not an easy change of direction, but necessary.
  4. Latest additions to the drive train area. Made intermediate shafts to connect the gearbox to the main prop shafts. This done by cutting 'SHG' supplied couplings in half, and inserting them into the ends of brass tubes cut to the appropriate length. The gearbox is mounted on a base made up from plasticard & plastic box section. Gregg
  5. Difficult to say as I had quite a few bits and pieces laid around from my S-100 Scnellboot build. The WTC, motors, shafts, props, seals, couplings etc come out around £100 The radio gear (Tx & Rx) I have had for a long time (from my R/C Flying days), but esc/mixers etc., made up and bought from 'ACTION Electronics' now (The Component Shop) Gregg
  6. Some of the recent work I have managed to get done. Stern area control runs trial fitted, to check for any obstacles. Gregg
  7. Little progress to talk of lately. Prop shaft 'A' frame and internal supports lined up and fitted. Stern planes control arm fitted. WTC trial fit in the hull. PE side plates trial fitted. Gregg
  8. Some of the work carried out recently. Diving planes area increased by 30% following advice from others who have done this conversion. Plasticard and green stuff used to enlarge. Mocked up the area needed to fit the electrics and propulsion. The WTC being made up by Marks Model Bits. Photo-etched decking fitted and primed to show up any areas that may need a bit of fettling. Gregg
  9. Done a little modifying in the rudder area. Cut away the kit receptacle to give room for the working rudder later Cutting out the hull in the tunnel area, hollowing out the tunnels & 'A' frame to take the brass prop shaft tube. Gregg
  10. Major cutting work done. Now I can get an idea of how much internal area there is, for all the gubbins that will be going in later.
  11. Carrying on from the previous post regarding photo etch decking! Temporary fitting of the PE to be sure it is supported enough.
  12. Having finished the very long Schnellboot build, I have just purchased the Revell Gato Class Submarine. As with the S-100 build I intend to convert to R/C, but only as a surface runner as I don't think I have the expertise to build a diver. As well as the basic kit I purchased the Eduard PE aftermarket accessories, although I may not use all as my fingers and eyesight are not good enough for many of the extremely small (miniscule) parts. On opening the very large box and examining the contents, I have found well moulded parts with virtually no flash evident. However I feel they have been
  13. The last pics! My next build, R/C as a surface runner! Gregg
  14. Calling it a day on this build. Will have to wait until next year to launch, as the parks authority have decided to drain our local pond for the first time in 25yrs. So I've decided to start another build, which hopefully will be completed by the time they refill the pond next year. URL=http://s1041.photobucket.com/user/ojayspbody/media/Italeri%20Schnellboot%20For%20Web%20Sites/DSCF1075.jpg.html][/url]
  15. Nearly there. Electronics fitted although may need adjusting position wise depending on water balance test results. Gregg
  16. What happened to this build, are there any updates as it was looking particularly interesting! Gregg
  17. As I had posted more than allowed here are some more left off. Gregg
  18. I have made a start on the hull & hull weathering, all 39 inches of it. I have used hairy sticks, sponges & cotton buds to apply the weathering. The materials are a mix of Vallejo acrylics and weathering pastels I used photo's of very abused vessels that were only taken off line when so badly damaged, or out of stores/fuel/ammunition as the basis for weathering. Gregg
  19. And the one I couldn't post earlier! Gregg
  20. Posted too many pictures on the last post! Gregg
  21. I decided at the start that I didn't want an 'Out of The Shipyard' Boote. I wanted to give my interpretation of a well used warts & all working vehicle of war. In may of the books I have read on working boats, I have seen many photo's of modifications carried out by the crews so decided to do the same. When in port crews didn't wear a particular uniform, mainly overalls and fatigues and often vests & shorts. So it opened up quite a choice for me as my model progressed. Using many AFV figures I modified them to my own aims, removing boots, carving shoes/socks and swapping arms, legs
  22. To be able to have access to the internals (electrical/steering) I realised I would need make some removable hatches. At the stern I opened up an area under the mine rails, so when in position the seams would be hidden. This provides access to the rudder area. The centre hatch for access to the motors/servo's incorporates part of the original kit opening, up to the rear of the bridge. The forward hatch incorporates the front deck area and the bridge cupola. All are secured using micro magnets fitted to the hatches and deck o cut-outs. The whole bow to stern decking can be removed for majo
  23. As this is to be a working model, many of the thin plastic railings etc. are being replaced with brass substitutes so as not to be as easily breakable. At the same time I am correcting the inaccuracies of the ones supplied in the kit. The forward Flak Tub is also incorrect, being of far too small a diameter so I cut out the decking and constructed a new tub. Gregg
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