ojay
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Posts posted by ojay
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Back in 1957 as an 8 year old, a neighbour who was in the RAF, showed me a model he had just finished.
I had only been making models for 2 yrs and mostly Airfix/Frog/Lindberg aircraft, but I was in awe of this enormous army vehicle.
Having asked my parents if I could have this kit for Christmas, they told me they couldn't afford it. .
£1 10s 6d was quite a sum of money in those days, and at the time I was so disappointed, but I now realise how hard times were for them.
Jump forward to 2014 and while browsing E-bay model sections, this model of my childhood dreams appeared.
I couldn't resist bidding on it, winning for the pricely some of £19-57.
What a shock I got when opening up the box, to find that model kits had progressed considerably since the 50's.
Masses of flash, ejector pin marks on surfaces that would be seen, moulded in detail that began from nowhere and ended nowhere.
Figures that wouldn't be out of place in the Twilight Zone programs, and as I found out later the actual plastic is to be believed.
It is actually possible to bend pieces of sprue into a knot , it is so flexible. This later caused problems with paint adhesion.
The model of my dreams (as a child) was a major disappointment, but Hey-Ho I've got it now, I just have to make the best of what I have got.
I started building back in 2014 but quickly lost mojo, then Illness and life took over. However a couple of weeks ago, I dragged it out from the back of my
model cupboard, only to realise several parts seem to have gone walkabout in the last couple of years.
Obviously the kit is long out of production so no chance of getting spares, thank goodness for plasticard and green stuff.
I couldn't be bothered to do lots of mods, so basically building out of the box with not too many changes.
I will post the progress so far in the next few days.
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Finally managed to get back to this after some major surgery (to self)
Having now realised that when fully assembled that it wouldn't fit into my little car, had to have a rethink and decided to break it down into 3 sections.
Bow/Centre/Stern, large heavy duty magnets recessed into the bulkheads help keep each section joined together.
Doing this required the control runs and prop/intermediate shafts to be realigned.
Not an easy change of direction, but necessary.
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Latest additions to the drive train area.
Made intermediate shafts to connect the gearbox to the main prop shafts.
This done by cutting 'SHG' supplied couplings in half, and inserting them into the ends of brass tubes cut to the appropriate length.
The gearbox is mounted on a base made up from plasticard & plastic box section.
Gregg
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Out of curiosity - not including the price of the basic kit - how much do you think you'll have into the cost of the R/C components and radio?
Looks like a great setup
:)/>
Difficult to say as I had quite a few bits and pieces laid around from my S-100 Scnellboot build.
The WTC, motors, shafts, props, seals, couplings etc come out around £100
The radio gear (Tx & Rx) I have had for a long time (from my R/C Flying days), but esc/mixers etc., made up and bought from 'ACTION Electronics' now (The Component Shop)
Gregg
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Some of the recent work I have managed to get done.
Stern area control runs trial fitted, to check for any obstacles.
Gregg
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Little progress to talk of lately.
Prop shaft 'A' frame and internal supports lined up and fitted.
Stern planes control arm fitted.
WTC trial fit in the hull.
PE side plates trial fitted.
Gregg
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Following on from last post.
Gregg
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Some of the work carried out recently.
Diving planes area increased by 30% following advice from others who have done this conversion.
Plasticard and green stuff used to enlarge.
Mocked up the area needed to fit the electrics and propulsion. The WTC being made up by Marks Model Bits.
Photo-etched decking fitted and primed to show up any areas that may need a bit of fettling.
Gregg
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Done a little modifying in the rudder area.
Cut away the kit receptacle to give room for the working rudder later
Cutting out the hull in the tunnel area, hollowing out the tunnels & 'A' frame to take the brass prop shaft tube.
Gregg
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Major cutting work done.
Now I can get an idea of how much internal area there is, for all the gubbins that will be going in later.
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Carrying on from the previous post regarding photo etch decking!
Temporary fitting of the PE to be sure it is supported enough.
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Having finished the very long Schnellboot build, I have just purchased the Revell Gato Class Submarine.
As with the S-100 build I intend to convert to R/C, but only as a surface runner as I don't think I have the expertise to build a diver.
As well as the basic kit I purchased the Eduard PE aftermarket accessories, although I may not use all as my fingers and eyesight are not
good enough for many of the extremely small (miniscule) parts.
On opening the very large box and examining the contents, I have found well moulded parts with virtually no flash evident.
However I feel they have been lacking in the welding/rivet department after looking at photo's of the real thing.
I would have thought that with such a
large kit, they would have provided a little more in this area.
The hull comes in 6 parts, port/starboard main hull, port/starboard bow & port/starboard stern.
When all joined together you have 53inches of plastic.
To start I taped all the hull parts together to be able to asses how to make the deck areas removable.
Using the kit side plate connecting pins/cups, I cut the cups to allow a sliding/locking fit, reinforcing the side plates as they would probably be handled regularly.
As I will be using the Eduard PE Deck Plates, the kit grated areas need to be removed and supporting ribs attached.
Gregg
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The last pics!
My next build, R/C as a surface runner!
Gregg
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Calling it a day on this build.
Will have to wait until next year to launch, as the parks authority have decided to drain our local pond for the first time in 25yrs.
So I've decided to start another build, which hopefully will be completed by the time they refill the pond next year.
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Nearly there. Electronics fitted although may need adjusting position wise depending on water balance test results.
Gregg
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What happened to this build, are there any updates as it was looking particularly interesting!
Gregg
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As I had posted more than allowed here are some more left off.
Gregg
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I have made a start on the hull & hull weathering, all 39 inches of it.
I have used hairy sticks, sponges & cotton buds to apply the weathering. The materials are a mix of Vallejo acrylics and weathering pastels
I used photo's of very abused vessels that were only taken off line when so badly damaged, or out of stores/fuel/ammunition as the basis for weathering.
Gregg
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And the one I couldn't post earlier!
Gregg
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Some recent updates.
Gregg
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Posted too many pictures on the last post!
Gregg
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I decided at the start that I didn't want an 'Out of The Shipyard' Boote. I wanted to give my interpretation of a well used warts & all working vehicle of war.
In may of the books I have read on working boats, I have seen many photo's of modifications carried out by the crews so decided to do the same.
When in port crews didn't wear a particular uniform, mainly overalls and fatigues and often vests & shorts. So it opened up quite a choice for me as my model progressed. Using many AFV figures I modified them to my own aims, removing boots, carving shoes/socks and swapping arms, legs & heads.
Gregg
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To be able to have access to the internals (electrical/steering) I realised I would need make some removable hatches.
At the stern I opened up an area under the mine rails, so when in position the seams would be hidden. This provides access to the rudder area.
The centre hatch for access to the motors/servo's incorporates part of the original kit opening, up to the rear of the bridge.
The forward hatch incorporates the front deck area and the bridge cupola.
All are secured using micro magnets fitted to the hatches and deck o cut-outs.
The whole bow to stern decking can be removed for major work, this is screwed down as per kit instructions, but will be sealed around the hull joint using car windscreen wiper rubbers siliconed to the hull internally. The screws will be concealed beneath crew figures & deck fittings/paraphanalia!
Gregg
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As this is to be a working model, many of the thin plastic railings etc. are being replaced with brass substitutes so as not to be as easily breakable. At the same time I am correcting the inaccuracies of the ones supplied in the kit.
The forward Flak Tub is also incorrect, being of far too small a diameter so I cut out the decking and constructed a new tub.
Gregg
Renwall Atomic Annie
in Cold War
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Thanks for the link Silenoz, I have several links and a scale plan of the AA but can't be bothered to get too involved.
This is just a basic build out of the box, as I have other models on the go at the moment.
Just needed to have a rest while I sorted some problems out on them.