DrGlueblob

What kind of display do you envision? I'm currently on a in flight stand/hang from ceiling phase right now. Chip

I just read a review at another site of the Hobbyboss 1/35 Molch. The reviewer noted how large the actual box was in relation to the model parts inside. I have seen similar instances over the years of huge boxes (1/72 Forbidden Planet Saucer, anyone?) What do you hobby shop owners think? Huge boxes eat up display space -is this a problem?

Is this one the same scale as the "flight display" kit of the 1990s?

I guess it all comes down to what you like vs. what you can afford/are willing to pay. I myself don't mind extra work.. If I didn't like modeling, I'd buy a premade diecast.

I've gotta say.. I have been buying a lot of RM kits in the past few years. I cannot pay these 100.00 plus prices for "nicer" kits. It'll be sad to see the increases. Chip

I use heavy (12ga) brass wire attached to a small metal eyelet made from wire and epoxied to the interior of the model. The wire is then wrapped tight on both ends and another larger (approx 1 inch or longer) screw type eyelet driven into the ceiling. I paint the whole assembly to match the room.. In my case,white. Also, putting a good bit of lead in the lowest center of the fuselage keeps the model steadier. Chip

How about "Double Nuts" a Phoenix based firebomber back in the 90s. Or any firebomber, for that matter. I've got two ARII kits in 1/144 awaiting..

Thank you for covering this scale. I have two old Monogram bones that needed these, especially the refuelling markings which my old eyes can't reproduce. Chip

Big Respect given to the folks running the show! I'll dig a heli kit out and start ....right now. Chip

Kaman Huskie HH-3 Pelican BK-117 TH-55

Sounds to me like too much humidity. Using a separate tank or moisture trap should do it. Be aware though that most airbrushes have replaceable seals, and they give all sorts of hassle when they wear.

That's a neat little plane.

If you look around, you can find the "VL Set" for around sixty bucks. I've used mine since 1970. It's an excellent tool.

Homemade tool here.. Take a small nail (Forget what size) and cut off the point. Chuck it in your moto-tool.. Get a cheap handheld paper punch and a strip of 400 wet or dry sandpaper. Using double sided tape, place the sandpaper on one side, then start punching out discs. Now you have a neat little tool for removing ejector pin stubs. I find a cordless Dremel Mini-Mite at low speed does the trick.

Keep in mind that plaster generates heat as it cures. Might be enough to damage the vacuform. I'd pack the inside of the vac with clay too.

I mix napatha (lighter fluid) often when I want a dead-flat enamel finish. I mix usually about 30% napatha to 60-paint. Works with MM and every other enamel I've tried (Humbrol, regular Testors, etc.)

Saul, have you got a link to the Grief squash molds? I'd like to get that.

..Could it possibly be made of ABS? I'd use epoxy then.

Then, there's this, http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=5586 Make your own with a hex wrench and a hammer. UMM is a ARC sponsor, too.

Plasti-Kote in the bug-bomb, and If I can't get to the auto parts store, Krylon.

On cars, tinting windows, tail lights, neat paint effects over color coats (Try it over bright Orange!)..

..Pleh. I'm not feelin' the love for this movie. I still have several Godzilla kits to build. I learned diorama basics as a kid with the Aurora issue.

I've sprinkled baking soda over CA.. Sets it right up.

There used to by the products sold by MV lenses, but they're long out of business.

That's the best stand-up apology I've ever heard. Good onya, Six.