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The preliminary report has been published. Interestingly, the pilot said he was still troubleshooting and not ready to eject, when the back-seater decided to initiate the ejection sequence: https://aviation-safety.net/wikibase/343511

No, Jennings Heilig is someone else. Jennings has gotten himself on trouble on a few sites due to his rather aggressive manner of posting, but he is actually very knowledgeable. Robertson is the "red lines guy" and posts, often using exactly the same material, on a huge number of forums. He used to post as Gaston Marty, but also uses Sherwood, Gen. Tlavok, wrathofatlantis2018, JeanStravinsky and various other pseudonyms. It usually takes only a couple of posts to recognize him since he reposts and cross-posts a lot of repetitive materal. Unlike Jennings, there is a geniune "Dunnin

I'm more interested in learning about the alien species that built and operated your sub for the 11.4 million years logged on the reactor🤣. What were they doing roaming the seas even before the first hominins appeared on Earth? Monitoring evolution? Must have been a very patient species.

John, since MRP and Mr Color are both acrylic lacquers, have you possibly considered giving the AKAN acrylic lacquers (6xxxx) series a go? I use both Mr Color and AKAN and find the behaviour very similar. Mr Color just needs a bit more thinning , but all of them work extremely well with Leveling Thinner. I have not had the drying out problem with their acrylic lacquers at all. What I do is use AKAN for all my Russian and Soviet colours - they are generally considered very accurate. For other nations, standard colours and metallics I use Mr Color (their Super Metallics are particula

I store mine in a drawer. No direct sunlight, no heat source, basically room temperature only. I live in South Africa, and it can be hot and dry here, but not excessively so in the house - I have no problem with any other paints or chemicals. The issue with older batches of AKAN acrylics (once again - NOT the acrylic lacquers) drying out, even in unopened bottles, has been reported by many. The bottles used for the later acrylic lacquers are different and, as mentioned in a previous post, I have not had any of those ones drying out. I don't really like using water-based acrylics an

MRP is an acrylic lacquer. AKAN also has an acrylic lacquer range - these are the ones labeled 6xxxx. All my AKAN water based acrylic bottles (7xxxx) dried out eventually, but NONE of my AKAN acrylic lacquers has dried out. Some of my bottles of AKAN acrylic lacquer are now about 6 years old and they all seem as good as new. Absolutely fantastic paint, right up there with Mr Color and MRP. Works great with Mr Hobby leveling thinner also.

I feel really blessed, since many of the aircraft that I always wanted done or redone in 1/48th scale have recently been done in excellent quality. For example, the GWH Su-27 and MiG-29 series, the many options that we have for F-4's and F-14's, the AMK MiG-31, ICM MiG-25 and many of my favourite WWII aircraft: Thanks Zvezda, ICM, Modelsvit, Tamiya, Eduard and some others for the many great recent releases. Frankly, since I am a slow builder, I'm probably good for a few years to come. However, there are two that would get me interested immediately: A new, accurate, modern M

Wow, that is even more similar than I expected, and very similar to Akan's 63060. It is now clear why they recommend the same colour for both applications. Thank you very much for that comparison: On normal photographs you would never see the two items next to each other like that - I think it is the first time that I've seen them like this. I have some of my own pictures of dielectric panels and wheel hubs from a MiG-21, but not together like this and they don't look quite as similar due to differences in lighting.

I use AKAN 63060 (which they also recommend for green radome transparencies). It looks very good to me. The paint chip shown top right on the link below looks very similar on my monitor to how it actually looks on the model: https://www.lindenhillimports.com/store/p290/AKAN63060.html#/

No, they are both stand alone clear coats. The difference is that the GX114 is a newer product with a finer flat pigment, resulting in a smoother finish. In fact, it says so on the product page that I linked - the original product was C182 and the improved product is GX114. In my experience they are both excellent products, but the GX114 is indeed slightly smoother. I think you are looking for some sort of additive to make the standard Mr Color paints flatter? I have never used those, but in their catalogue, Mr Hobby lists C188 as "flat base rough" and C189 as "flat base smooth". I

Hi Dog 1. GX114 is not something that you "add to your paint" - it is a standalone clear coat. You can thin it with Leveling Thinner. Here is the product page: https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product1/category_7/2580.html It includes a video that shows you its application and comparison to Mr Color C182, which is also pretty good.

That is from the buffable range and it is different from the standard Mr Color or newer Super Metallics paints (as I said, those ranges are very tough). Masking over it is very likely to leave marks unless you seal it. If you don't mind the fact that the lustre will change a little, you could try something like Alclad Aqua Gloss or Tamiya X22 thinned with Leveling Thinner to seal it. However, before doing it, make up a test piece (not on the model) and try it out first to make sure you are happy with the final effect.

A question on the Mr Hobby silver that you used: Which one was it: - Standard Mr Color silver (C08) - Mr Metal Color Silver (211) - Mr Color Super Metallic (SM201 or SM206) Among these, the only one that I would expect to have a problem with masking is the Mr Metal Color Silver (211). This is a buffable paint that must be polished and although I have not used them, I suspect masking will be a problem if left unsealed and that any mask has the potential of changing the final effect. On their leaflet, they also warn that you can lose the metallic effect if you seal it,

AKAN makes a water based acrylic line, but even though I tried it, I don't like it (like all water based acrylics) and in the beginning they had some sort of quality control problem in that some of the WWII colours came out too dark compared to their modern line of acrylic lacquers. However, the AKAN acrylic lacquer line (6xxxx series) is fantastic and right up there with Mr Color and MRP. Not only are their colours well researched and now also consistent (see what I wrote above about the early production water based acrylics) but they also seem to have also solved the problem of t

Great, great pictures! Thanks for sharing.

Dog1, apologies for not responding after your pictures, but I think ElectroSoldier covered most of it. In short, if you want to equalize the finish across multiple parts or materials, the secret usually lies in equalizing what goes underneath. Primer is the one half of preparing dissimilar materials, sanding is the other. So, basically, before putting my paint on, I sand with gradually finer sand paper or sanding sticks or sanding sponges. Usually by the time I get to 1200 grit, I will apply a coat of primer (my favourite is Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500). For something with a gloss finish, like

Well, I'm looking forward to see more builds from you. I've always focussed on military aviation myself but I very much enjoy watching what people do in the other genres of modelling. Civil aviation has always intrigued me due to those very intricate and interesting colour schemes, and there certainly is something very attractive in those glossy finishes. I'm yet to actually build an airliner though.

Siba, I now looked at the video in your original post and after seeing the size of those decals I'm even more impressed! That type of thing still scares me despite my 40 years of building models. I found some pictures of the original aircraft in that scheme on Airliners.net, and I think you nailed it. I also had a look at some of your other videos, like the Red Wings Tu-204 - отличная работа! You do some great work. I hope you will make more videos like that. I've subscribed in the meantime. You almost convinced me to try an airliner... almost... but not quite yet😉

Wow, fantastic model! It appears that you looked around for the hardest possible colour scheme to do, and then decided that is the one that you would do.

I have also done quite a bit of introspection over the years, very much driven by the fact that I went from building a model a week as a kid, to one or two models a year now, 40 years later. However, my conclusion has been quite different, and I suspect it comes down to what you personally enjoy doing. You shouldn't do anything in a hobby that you don't like - unless you are into some weird form of masochism. In my case, I have found that my own improvement in skills actually resulted in me enjoying things that I did not enjoy in earlier years, and therefore used to avoid at all costs. For exa

Can you post a picture? Your descriptions of the problem are not always very easy to follow. The only reason I can think of why a paint would appear duller on one type of material than another is if the surface finish was not the same (in other words, one material is smoother than the other). In that case, a primer followed by light sanding should equalize them. I usually use Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500, but even then I tend to follow with a very light sanding with micro mesh before painting. I tend to go down to at least 6000 grit wet sanded (again, this is after priming and before painting),

Try to use Google translate directly: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fsoyuyo.main.jp%2Fp40b%2Fp40b-1.html

I've never seen a Su-27 model that was a tailsitter, even when adding resin exhaust nozzles. It really shouldn't be necessary to add weight to the nose. My Academy Su-27 is a bit "nose heavy" due to the Quickboost resin nose, but even then the load on the nose wheel is relatively low. On the GWH kit with a plastic nose the load on the nose gear should be positive (i.e. not a tendency to fall on its back), but very low compared to the main gear. I doubt there would be any problems unless you dropped it directly onto the nose. The main gears are much more critical and with the included pins in t

Haneto, I just want to say: Those parts are amazing, but your painting skills are even more so! Really incredible job getting them to look like that.

South Africa was lagging way behind, so being in the under-50s group (just...) I only got my first Phizer shot a few days ago. No side effects except a very dull muscle pain on the arm the night after the shot - it was gone the next morning. Same with my wife. My father got Covid three weeks after his second Phizer vaccination - a so-called breakthrough case. However, despite his very advanced age his only symptom was a runny nose. He would not even have known it was Covid if he didn't get tested "just in case". On the other hand, a friend's father who was not vaccinated, just pass