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S K Loh

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  1. Sorry guys. Realised that the pics were too small. Tried to upload them with Google Drive. Hope you can view them. I will probably post more pics and details in the Article through Steve. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1xkfi7w_a7j559W5sR_MMEao7qtfUj8gZ
  2. A Happy New Year to one and all ARCers. I have finally completed my build of the P-40B Warhawk flown by Boyington when he was with the AVG Flying Tigers in 1941 and one of the F4U-1A when he commanded VMF 214 Black Sheep Squadron in the Solomons in late 1943. My special thanks to fellow ARCer, Milo for the valuable info to enable me to incorporate the correct antenna/cable run configuration. I was not able to implement a short post to the end of the pitot tube but glue the aerial cable directly to the pitot tube instead. During my search on Pappy Boyington, I came to know that he flew with the AVG Flying Tigers in 1941. I decided to built a P-40B Warhawk with the markings of his bird "21" of the 1st Pursuit Squadron "Adam &Eves". Glad that my LHS happens to have an old AFV P-40B kit. Unlike the Corsair much modifications/enhancements had to be done on it to make look reasonably correct. Today (03 Jan here in tropical Singapore) marks the 75th anniversary of Boyington's last engagement of flying with VMF 214. He was shot down over in Rabual that morning flying BuNo 17915 (came to know after I have done the preparatory work to build BuNo 17883). He remained a POW in Japan till the end of war. I remember the TV mini series "Baa Baa Black Sheep" in the late 70s . This is my tribute to him.
  3. Hi Milo. Thank you very much for the detailed info. It is certainly informative and useful. I had actually started to build 17883 based on the pic from wikipedia. Looks like I will have to do some re-work to get it corrected i.e. removal of the front antenna mast. Will also have to apply a new roundel on the underside. Noticed that 883 has its roundel place further away from the wingtip, closer to the cartridge ejection port while most Corsairs had underside roundel placed nearer to the wingtip and with the horizontal white bar over the red/amber/green identification/recognition light indicators. S K Loh
  4. S K Loh

    Platz 1/144 A-4 E Skyhawk USMC

    Nice. I like the one in Kiwi markings. Well done!!.
  5. S K Loh

    1/144 F-4S by SK Loh

    Hi Herb, Sorry for the late reply. Thank you for your compliment and glad that you liked the presentation. That's how I keep my builds from dust with these nifty display case which allowed me to have some simply short write-ups to help me reminisce them with a litte bit of history/background to it. Thank you and best regards, S K Loh
  6. Hi. I am building a AFV 1/144 F4U-1A Corsair and I intend to build it as one flown by Maj Pappy Boyington when he commanded the VMF-214 Balck Sheep Squadron. It was Bu 17883. In my research I came across several types of antenna configuration and aerial cable run for this bird. For example, the graphic picture depicted in Wikipedia shown it had both forward and rear antenna mast with no aerial cable run to the forward mast. It also depicted a tiny whip antenna on the belly just aft of the main wing. I have also come across "883" shown without the forward mast and a different aerial cable run and no whip antenna on the belly. Appreciate it if any of you ARCers can help to clarify the correct antenna mast and aerial cable run configuration for "883". I intend to have it built with the updated blue outline for the roundel markings. Thanks. S K Loh
  7. S K Loh

    P51 Redtails

    Hi freshnewstarter, You should be able to find numerous info of Redtails P-51D from net. Like you, I was inspired after watching the movie and that gets me searching for info on the Redtails. As I only built 1/144 scale it took quite a while to find one. Fortunately the LHS brought in a Hobby Model kit and so began my work on building it into a Redtail. This one depicts the P-51D flown by Capt Roscoe Brown, CO 100 Fighter Squadron, 332 Fighter Group in Ramitelli, Italy in 1943. There are several other famous pilots who were honoured too e.g. No10 "Lollipop II" 1Lt Spurgeon Neal Ellington of the same Squadron. The names of pilots and aircraft codes depicted in the movie are fictitious as I understand it. Any corrections are most welcome. P-51D has been one of my WWII favourites and I am glad to be able to build one. Hope you will be able to find the one of your choice. Regards S K Loh
  8. S K Loh

    Another beauty by SK Loh

    Thank you, Herb. I am flattered. Best regards, S K Loh
  9. S K Loh

    Water Trap Placement

    Hi Don, I used to have the same problem as you until I added the same water trap as the one Andrew (Kaibutsu) posted above. I kept the main regulator/water trap as it is i.e. at the outlet of the compressor (am using a Badger compressor). I no longer has the problem of water coming off the airbrush, disrupting the paintwork especially if you use enamel. i find this type of water trap an advantage in that you can just screw it to your airbrush without having to splice the hose. But more importantly, you can actually see the amount of water trapped and make a deliberate flushing before it gets into the airbrush on days when the air gets more humid especially where I am from, Singapore during days of heavy thunderstorm. This type of water trap comes with a standard 1/8 inch end fitting. I understand that Paasche airbursh has a unique hose end fitting that is smaller than the standard 1/8 inch type. Your might need an adaptor to go. Best regards, S K Loh
  10. Hi Jackman, That's correct. That's the on that I bought from Giant and subsequently from NTUC too. I managed to buy the UK equivalent for Future they called "Klear" some years ago but am running low. That's when I chanced upon this product and gave it a try. As I have mentioned the Floor Care is much thinner and hence does not offer the same effect as well as shine as Future would. I have tried it on canopies but they pale in terms of shine and protection. Unless if you let it evaporate to reduce its volume significantly which I actually tired. But it's just not worth the effort. It's just a shame that SC Johnson (S'pore) is not bringing Future in.
  11. Hi Chuck540z3, The picture you showed of the Pledge Floor Care is not the same as the Pledge Future. Something similar to the one you have is available here in our local stores ( sorry that I could not attached a picture at this point in time). It is also called Pledge Floor Care with no mention of Future and has a citrus fragrance. I bought a bottle to try last year as Future is no longer available in Singapore. It is of a lower consistency in that it is very diluted as compared to Future. Hence, it does not offer the same protection as Future and is susceptible to decal softening solution like Microsol, Mr. Mark Softer or Humbrol DecalFix as I have tried all 3. I am building 1/144 scale and the undesirable effect shows pretty well and I can well imagine the horror of it in larger scale like 1/48 as you would be using copious amount of the softening solution. It is compatible with Future and I have mixed them to airbrushed my builds. I have tried using it as a base solution for acrylic paints and the results looked pretty okay with airbrush. You will need to thicken it by allowing it to evaporate to at least half its original volume to have any effect but it's just not worth the effort. Regards, S K Loh
  12. S K Loh

    Cleaning airbrush

    Hi Guys, From my experience the only cleaner if you are using lacquer-based paints is lacquer thinner. No other solvent can do. The down side is the extremely strong fumes and the danger of damaging the seals in the AB unless they are non-PTFE type like the Badger 150 that I have. If you are using Humbrol or Tamiya enamels or perhaps other brands of enamels, any turpentine that you get from the hardware shop can do the same but of course the original thinner will be preferred by some price notwithstanding. You can save the more exclusive (and expensive) thinners from Humbrol or Tamiya for thinning to airbrush your model. That was what I have been doing till I switched over to aqueous acrylics mainly due to the fumes of the turpentine when cleaning. Likewise for the lacquer thinner, you can use those equivalent from the hardqare shops. It has been some 3 years that I am using Mr Hobby/Tamiya acrylics. White spirit works with acrylics but not lacquer or enamels as far as I know from the kind that I get from the local hardware shops here in Singapore. Whatever type of paint used and the corresponding thinner/cleaner used to clean the AB, I have learnt that the key factor is keeping the paint chamber clear of any paint residue, however thin. This may entail the stripping down of the AB as per the manufacturer guide which in same cases can be pretty tedious and cumbersome. Recently I have found a way to circumvent this. I used water and Windex to clean my AB after the paint job by shooting them through and back-flush several times. This is followed by using a squeegee type air-duster with the brush removed to blow out any residue diluted paint left in the chamber. I first remove the needle from my Badger 150 and the regulator from the head. Then with one finger I close the end of the open chuck where the needle is inserted into the AB and blew the duster into the opening. Give it about two to three squirts. Next I close the opening where the paint cup fits into the AB and similarly gave the duster two to three squirts. The duster nozzle should be able to give a fairly good fit to ensure the maximum force into the chamber. So far with each session I noticed a considerable amount of diluted paint being forced out from the chamber. Just peer through from the end of the chuck opening and one could see the light through the nozzle opening. I have noticed that this was not the case prior to the blow-through with the air duster. This is in spite of the usual flushing by shooting through water of Windex earlier. I have not strip down my AB so far except removing the needle and regulator. But more importantly I have not experienced stuck needle or sluggish needle control. Thought I share this with fellow users. I believe the same technique can be applied to other brands of AB. It works for me. Best regards, S K Loh
  13. S K Loh

    Old paint

    Hi C2j I see no harm in trying to 'revive' these paints since they have never been opened before and hence should be as good as factory sealed. What is needed is your patience in giving them a good and thorough (I literally mean just that) stir. Having satisfied that you have done that thoroughly, observe the colour consistency and its run down the stirrer - no lumps or hardened bits. If it is good, you could try it out on your scrap work-piece or something and see if it still gives a good finish. You might perhaps want to thin it down a little before that - probably more if your intend to airbrush. I have had very old Humbrol enamels that I managed to revive and use them without any hitch when I re-started my hobby after a similar hiatus. You have got nothing to lose. Good luck. S K Loh
  14. S K Loh

    MM Acryl flat coat sheen.

    Does the MM Flat give a milky look after the stirring/shaking? Otherwise that could explain the semi-gloss of satin finish if your mixture appears more clear than milky. Do you brush-on or airbrush the flat? I have used Tamiya Flat Base as well as Mr Hobby Flat to mix with diluted Future as a flat coating before; and if the mix of flat base is less than I do get a satin kind of finish. I have also noticed that I do get a slight sheen if I paint brush it on as opposed to airbrushing it. You may want to try adding a little Tamiya or Mr Hobby(Gunze) Flat Base to your MM Flat and give it a try provided your MM Flat is aqueous type of paint and not solvent based. Hope you have better luck.
  15. S K Loh

    Future and being able to re polish it

    Well that being the case perhaps you can try another method. You can use clear polyurethane varnish. I get this from the local hardware shop. Thinned it down with turpentine and brush it on the black base to build up the levelling. They are much thicker than Future and so should be able to take of uneven levels. This calls for patience. Then sand it down and once a smooth surface is attainee, apply Future (in several coats at least with sufficient curing interval) to get the desired shine. Another alternative you may want to consider is to replace the styrene sheet red star with airbrushed red star or print your own decal red star. This way will enable you to achieve a smooth surface faster. For your consideration. Regards. S K Loh