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Aussie-Pete

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Everything posted by Aussie-Pete

  1. If you want a set I have them and never used them. Instead I made my own hybrid F1 Engines and left them un batted. Why cover the beauty of those engines. As for failings of the dragon. It's huge an dlooks good in a case. Better engine made enough difference to the non rivet counter
  2. REsin will not need supports inside the bell. It's self supporting up to a certain angle. I might put a few supports through to the top but nothing more.
  3. Yes I have used it and it was good but try finding it? I searched high and low and had to go back to the old resin. There are other companies making eco resin too.
  4. Th eright stuff but they are no Bob and Mike. I got up early to watch the launch. Maybe I should have stayed in bed and it would have gone off.
  5. leaning is to allow resin to not pool on the print and causing deformed prints and yes to minimise suction but there's not much suction on an open bell
  6. No This is going to need a lot of clean up. Engine bells I always print sitting flat on the botton. You put supports all the way around. but needs none insideand use large or medium
  7. Original Photon and Fusion360. This is modeled in parts and assembled. 10 parts I think. Print time was 12 hours all up I think. I'm trying to reduce part count by saving assemblies merged. Largest is the engine bell currently in two halves that I want to print as 1 part. That's 11 hours.
  8. Just for Pete. This is at 1/72 scale. I was going to make an adapter to put 5 of them on my Dragon Saturn V
  9. I discovered spray welding this week. This looks a very similar method. Can't wait to see the completed model
  10. The forum could be easier to locate. I think I too stumbled on this gem. You will find a lot of helpful advice and some awesome modelling here.
  11. But we have 10 toes too 😮 No we don't have Royal with cheese in Australia. We have the good old qtr pounder
  12. I just googled RealSpace Models and Real Space models. ARC does not get a mention until page 3. It should be higher 😉 I have never found it ambiguous.
  13. Congrats on the purchase. now the fun begins. What thickness walls are you worried about? You can print thin unsupported to about .5 mm. (sorry metric here) You will be shocked at the detail you can achieve. Getting your setting right makes all the difference. Expect failures, expect to replace parts. LCD screens and the glass are considered consumables. I believe this has a slightly larger print area than my photon. You don't have to clean the vat after every print either. Really only if you have failed prints stuck on the FEP. You can leave resin in the vat as long as it's not exposed to UV light. It stinks. You might find you need to move it to the garage. Have fun
  14. I've been in awe of your modeling skills since I been lurking around here. Glad I have influenced you some 🙂 With 3D printing scale is king. the bigger the scale the easier to print. Having said that the details that can be printed still blows my mind. This model will throw up a few challenges but I think will turn out great. Resin when cured is pretty rigid. I look forward to seeing this printed.
  15. Hollowing is done via to slicing software if you have a solid model. You can determine wall thickness. But if you are going to buy a resin printer I would suggest even doing your own models. There is plenty of 3D software out there and much of it is free. I use Fusion360 which is free for home use.
  16. Software determines where it thinks supports should go. Often too many and you can edit them out or add more. Yes you have to remove with side cutters and sand to shape. Some models can be printed without supports. depends on what over hangs the model has.
  17. I used to print on Shapeways. they use deposition printers which is different to how DLP works. 2 issues with shapeways is cost and materials they offer. Most print in their nylon which is hard to print. The photon is capable of extreme detail in a material that takes paint well. But resin parts often require a lot of post print clean up to remove the supports. I have uploaded parts to Shapeways to see how much they cost compared to owning a photon. They want $20 to print a part I can do for cents.
  18. No.1 one issue people seem to have with the photon is zeroing the build plate. There are videos on youtube showing the paper method which I use. Also many users have sanded the build plate. They are not always the flattest they should be. Resin smells so I suggest keeping in either in the garage or a well ventilated room. Again some go to extreme lengths to reduce smell with building extraction systems. You can leave resin in the vat after each print. The only time I remove resin is if I had a fail which requires removing prints that are stuck to the FEP. Always strain the resin if you put it back in the bottle. I bought a stainless steel coffee strainer for that. Remember the LCD screen is considered a consumable. You will replace it and the glass sooner or later. Spares are found on Evilbay pretty cheap. As is FEP. Hope I've given you some info you were not aware of? Happy printing.
  19. Mine came with a 250ml bottle. Shop around for resin. They vary do get expensive at times. this resin is popular with some. Amazon wont post this to Australia so I've not tried it. https://www.amazon.com/Blu-Strong-Precise-Resolution-Printing/dp/B07X84C2FW
  20. Look forward to seeing what you do with it. The detail attainable with a home entry level printer is nothing less than amazing. I've been trying to print my latest version of my F1 but the cold plays havoc with resin.
  21. Unless you have used a 3D printer before be prepared to be frustrated. There is a facebook group for the photon where you will find a lot of help. Look for anycubic photon printer owners on FB.
  22. They look awesome. I have modeled the quad thruster at 1/32
  23. Spot ties were a nylon fiber. We used it up til the retirement of our P3 Orions Cable ties have to be cut using calibrated cutters which were not considered very reliable and would over tighten the looms. So hand tied spot tie was the go.
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