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About Netz

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    Where am I going, and what am I doing in this hand basket
  • Birthday April 7

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    So. Ca. USA

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  1. I have a 20 gal Craftsman compressor that's belt driven, I've had it longer than my kids...I like it allot as I use it for everything. But there are many different directions you could go. 1. Buy a new construction type compressor, belt driven (quieter). 2.Go the Co2 route, (no sound at all) 3.Buy a Airbrush dedicated compressor (expensive) 4.Convert your existing tank with a new silent (quiet)Just some ideas. Size of tank may have some bearing on the production of moisture but climate will be the #1 factor, just drain the tank on a regular basis say monthly. You can buy a inexpensive pressure regulator water trap combination, they work well, I have not experienced any water related problems with mine,I drain my tank about once a year and it will produce about a cup of water...I know I should drain it more often, but water has never been a problem with the water trap regulator I use. HTH Curt
  2. I still have bulk parts stored in kit boxes... But now I like to keep my parts in sealable parts organizers, especially during a build so parts do not get lost. You can organize as you like keeping wheels tires in one compartment weapons in another, however you like to divide them up. I also use them to store paint. Curt
  3. I'd avoid the sheet of glass for safety reasons, head down to any Floor Covering store and ask for a Marble tile sample from their discontinued lines, they will give you all you want as these are always available and actually become a problem if they don't throw them out quick enough.One advantage to the Marble as opposed to a ceramic tile is it will be flat, most ceramics are not truly flat and will have waves and imperfect surfaces, and the sample tiles will have some sort of thick signage glued to the back theat holds tile information, this will help prevent the marble from braking as marble is quite soft. As for removal of the pour blocks, if for some reason I cannot cut it off with a saw, I'll chuck up a drum sander into my dremel and grind it off, quick, messy and toxic... Curt
  4. A big Thanks to Pat for being able to attend, Mike and myself were unable to make it this year. No, the F-16 inlets have not bean released yet, they are kinda on the back burner for now. Were going through some changes right now, Mike and my schedules have been pretty messed up this past year and we never got back on the casting track after last years Nationals. I cannot commit on any time frames, but we will continue to sell, no products are being dropped, and we have more new items planned to keep us overwhelmed with Master set ups for awhile. Curt
  5. I use Testors Dull Cote Lacquers exclusively, I like to add a bit of paint thinner (mineral spirit) to my mix which is essentially 70% thinner to 30% clear, I'll spray and keep adding lacquer thinner till the last cote is straight thinner, it gives it a nice flat sheen. Also if you experience the "Blushing" mine looked like snow, white dots, straight Lacquer thinner will melt is and the affect will go away. Curt
  6. Mike laid out the Block table HERE on ARC. The wheels are different on Blk 40's,scab plates will depend on era,the A/B kits, well are, A's and B's and I'd use then on a different project. Curt
  7. As Rob.w said, or go to the kitchen and get some baking soda. Curt
  8. Why tab at all... just glue in short segments and align as you go, it'll be less headache. Curt
  9. I haven't paid more than $25.00 for my Hasegawa kits. Curt
  10. Try adding paint thinner to the mix,it will act as a retarder, you could also keep thinning your gloss with lacquer till the final cotes are almost pure lacquer, it will melt and level the surface. If you'd like to try future, I would suggest just using it as a setting solution, dilute it a bit with water and apply it directly to the area the decal will lay, it works great that way, and no headache of trying to spray the whole model, I've tested it over a flat surface and it will work with no silvering. Curt
  11. I'll 3rd the above, also what type of glue are you using? some glues like Testors will take a long time to cure and will shrink badly. Also ditch that Squadron Green putty, try Tamiya Grey. Curt
  12. Not to steer you away from fishing line, but it seems your shopping for something local that will work. Try going to a Yardage shop (sewing materials) and get invisible thread, you can find it in 2 different sizes (I buy both) it is smoke clear and looks like steel wire in scale. HTH. Curt
  13. Actually if you "Have to" gloss cote your metal finish, a flat will restore the natural appearance of the metal. Curt