Netz

I just use my finger to smear it on, you have more control and can "feel" the thickness of the putty. Another technique to remove ejector pin holes is to use a small curved blade and scrape away the divot, I did a video for Luis's Y/T channel, I'll post it if I can find it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8-NF_JV26s

The GWH 1st release of the F-15 had shape issues, it was corrected,and if buying retail you should be ok, if buying from a private seller you might research when the kit was corrected.

If you need intakes,send me a PM. Curt

I've learned not to put on multi layers of paint, most of our club members do the same. But once I'm finished applying my paint I do like to use a paper towel to smooth out/lightly buff the paint. Curt

You can get a good A/B in the $100.00 range, I wouldn't go much higher. My 1st choice would be a Badger Krome it comes with 2 tips and can be found in the $100-110 range. Watch Amazon, I got a Sotar 2020 (Badger) for $69.00 around November. Iwata HPcs is also a good choice. Brushes I have or used. Badger 100 side feed, 1st real A/B I bought 1982 and still going strong, I can do anything I want with this, it performs side by side with my Iwata HPCS. Note: parts are readily available if needed Iwata HPCS, solid brush, real smooth. Note:parts are readily avail

I just added a picture to my above thread from Photo Bucket, it seems to be viewable. Curt

Aeroscale's Early Aviation Forum is one of the best, most active sites I've found, I learned allot for that site. Curt

Hasegawa 1/48 A-7D, this has been on my to-do list since birth..... This kit goes together nicely, build it wheels up speed brake down, nice presentation. I did an "E" model this way, ran a curved acrylic rod up the exhaust, attached to a base. Curt

How did you download you "Bucket" ? I just tried using 2 of the methods provided (1) Download album and (2) Share Library to another source. #1 Download bucket did not respond, clicked on the "I'm not a robot" icon and hit download with no response, Method #2 was not used as I do not want to transfer this to FB. What's the trick? A few weeks ago I couldn't even view my photo's at all. Curt

Actually YES, any of your entries (ANY) are eligible for "Special Awards", Special awards such as the Theme award is NOT a category award. Theme falls in with "Best of Show" Best A/C, Best Armor, these are special and not a specific category award with a 1st-3rd award system. Curt

I have a 20 gal Craftsman compressor that's belt driven, I've had it longer than my kids...I like it allot as I use it for everything. But there are many different directions you could go. 1. Buy a new construction type compressor, belt driven (quieter). 2.Go the Co2 route, (no sound at all) 3.Buy a Airbrush dedicated compressor (expensive) 4.Convert your existing tank with a new silent (quiet)Just some ideas. Size of tank may have some bearing on the production of moisture but climate will be the #1 factor, just drain the tank on a regular basis say monthly. You can buy a inexpensi

I still have bulk parts stored in kit boxes... But now I like to keep my parts in sealable parts organizers, especially during a build so parts do not get lost. You can organize as you like keeping wheels tires in one compartment weapons in another, however you like to divide them up. I also use them to store paint. Curt

I'd avoid the sheet of glass for safety reasons, head down to any Floor Covering store and ask for a Marble tile sample from their discontinued lines, they will give you all you want as these are always available and actually become a problem if they don't throw them out quick enough.One advantage to the Marble as opposed to a ceramic tile is it will be flat, most ceramics are not truly flat and will have waves and imperfect surfaces, and the sample tiles will have some sort of thick signage glued to the back theat holds tile information, this will help prevent the marble from braking as marbl

A big Thanks to Pat for being able to attend, Mike and myself were unable to make it this year. No, the F-16 inlets have not bean released yet, they are kinda on the back burner for now. Were going through some changes right now, Mike and my schedules have been pretty messed up this past year and we never got back on the casting track after last years Nationals. I cannot commit on any time frames, but we will continue to sell, no products are being dropped, and we have more new items planned to keep us overwhelmed with Master set ups for awhile. Curt

I use Testors Dull Cote Lacquers exclusively, I like to add a bit of paint thinner (mineral spirit) to my mix which is essentially 70% thinner to 30% clear, I'll spray and keep adding lacquer thinner till the last cote is straight thinner, it gives it a nice flat sheen. Also if you experience the "Blushing" mine looked like snow, white dots, straight Lacquer thinner will melt is and the affect will go away. Curt

Mike laid out the Block table HERE on ARC. The wheels are different on Blk 40's,scab plates will depend on era,the A/B kits, well are, A's and B's and I'd use then on a different project. Curt

As Rob.w said, or go to the kitchen and get some baking soda. Curt

Why tab at all... just glue in short segments and align as you go, it'll be less headache. Curt

HERE you go.... Curt

I haven't paid more than $25.00 for my Hasegawa kits. Curt

Try adding paint thinner to the mix,it will act as a retarder, you could also keep thinning your gloss with lacquer till the final cotes are almost pure lacquer, it will melt and level the surface. If you'd like to try future, I would suggest just using it as a setting solution, dilute it a bit with water and apply it directly to the area the decal will lay, it works great that way, and no headache of trying to spray the whole model, I've tested it over a flat surface and it will work with no silvering. Curt

I'll 3rd the above, also what type of glue are you using? some glues like Testors will take a long time to cure and will shrink badly. Also ditch that Squadron Green putty, try Tamiya Grey. Curt

Not to steer you away from fishing line, but it seems your shopping for something local that will work. Try going to a Yardage shop (sewing materials) and get invisible thread, you can find it in 2 different sizes (I buy both) it is smoke clear and looks like steel wire in scale. HTH. Curt

Actually if you "Have to" gloss cote your metal finish, a flat will restore the natural appearance of the metal. Curt