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Everything posted by Sebastijan

  1. Now I've found out that decals for Adria Airways are no longer available so... ;) Maybe I can still find them somewhere but it's gonna be hard... Maybe I'll finally try to make my own?
  2. I am thinking about joining in this GB, however I have never build the airliner before... If I'd join I'd build this A320:
  3. ok here it is... I glued the two parts together and this is how they look now... I'll have to cover up the gap somehow and then over paint the area (I hope I won't have to repaint the whole plane)... Maybe I'll try to putty it with MrSurfacer and then remove the excess putty with acetone...
  4. Today my Cutlass accidently dropped and broke in two, right after the cockpit... It was fully painted and preshaded... I wanted to give it a Future bath and now this... Are there any options to reattach the two parts together without noticing it too much? I can post pics if you like...
  5. Hehe I went to the shopping center today to buy some shorts for my fitness training and I left it without shorts and with a Revell 1/72 Su-27 which I'm gonna be build in Ukrainain splinter demo scheme... so put me up for both planes Su-27 in prize category and Su-47 in "Flanker any beyond" category ;)
  6. Just one question... Would Su-47 count as a valid entry or not? I know it's not a Flanker, but bears a lot of design from the Su-27 family... Unfortunately I don't have enough spare time to enter my Academy 1/48 Su-27 for the GB.
  7. When I first used preshading I was a bit scared to ruin a really good looking Tomcat - however it's a piece of cake... I used flat black and did what other guys here said and voila... My F-14 will be published on the ARC next week...
  8. I had a similar question in T&T a few months ago and it worked for me. Mask your canopy then apply the interior colour on the outside and overlay it with silver... You'll have green on the inside and silver on the outside... You can also apply a thin layer of dull coat on the inside where the frames are to enhance the effect.
  9. guys, zdenko showed me this on one of his models and I couldn't believe how simple it is and how good i looks!
  10. I was so happy with my Tiger F-16 but a disaster struck when I removed masking from the canopy. It looks like this: It seems like vapors from the glue made those wait stains on the inner surface of the canopy. However I have made 100+ models and nothing similar happened to me. I used Revell Pro (needle) glue and I applied a really thin layer of it, which I always do. The canopy was deeped in Future before gluing onto the model as I read that Future also protects the clear plastic from such happenings... I have succesfully removed the canopy a few minutes ago. What would be best treatment f
  11. There's a nice article about this in Tools 'n tips. It works for me and maybe it would work for you, too. http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/tnt1/001-10...kkel/tnt033.htm
  12. I'd like to know what's the difference between ModelMaster Thinner and Airbrush Thinner. I've seen a warning on a model of Thinner that it is not recomended for use with airbrush but I don't get it? The thinner's job is to thin paint, right?
  13. I have the following problem. I am not sure if it is called nitro based colour at all. I have a colour that is used for painting cars, and this colour melts styrene. I am building a model of a MAN XXL truck for a neighbour who has a transport company and has 25 of this monsters. I have the original colour he uses for the trucks and I'd like to apply it on my model. Since the original colour is hazardous to use on the plastic, I thought of applying a coat of Future first, to protect the plastic. Anyone has any similar experiences?
  14. I was thinking of this option with the Future, too...
  15. huh... thanks for the answers... Luckily I am not making a NM finish - the project in question is the F-16 exhaust where there are two layers, more aluminium like and burnt metal like... I think I'll spray one of the aluminium enamels first, mask it and then put on the metalizer... I think it's the best way with the resources I have at my hand...
  16. Are there any special instructions how to mask metalizers? I am using Model Master brand and I am afraid that I would peel off the pain if I mask them with Tamiya masking tape...
  17. Sebastijan


    corsair, there are both - RATO and JATO I've seen Blue Angles C-130 and French Mirage IV RATo takeoffs
  18. I guess I'll just go with the madmike's suggestion. The error in this kit is another good reason to close the canopy. Oh and that sprue leftover wasn't the cause of the problem. I was dryfitting it to see how it comes together and when I sanded it off, there was still the same gap. Thanks anyway.
  19. I am building a Revell 1/48 F-16A and I've decided to close the canopy. However, a problem occured. When I put together forward and backward piece of canopy, a gap occurs. Any idea how to fill that hole? Now I am thinking of opening canopy, as it would be the easiest solution but anyway, I'd prefer to have it closed.
  20. Thanks for the tips! I never painted the interior canopy if I closed it, but when I open them, I always do. I haven't thought of first applying the interior colour and then overspraying it... And that way with the flat coat on the inside is great too...
  21. Hello I am wondering what is the easiest way to paint the canopy on the inside? Any special techniques?
  22. Hey Steve, here are two pics of the Bravo's RIO pit. I hope they'll be of any help to you. Btw, I am looking for 1/72 VF-103 decals depicting recent markings (Yellow fintips, yellow stripes... high vis). Anyone got a spare?
  23. thanks, will try that tomorrow
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