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Thadeus

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Everything posted by Thadeus

  1. Awesome Hornet! Nice touch with the gun door markings. Great work!
  2. Every time I see such nice Tomcat, especially Tamiya Tomcat I think I have to get myself one of them. What a lovelly Tomcat!
  3. Wow. Extremely well done paintjob. And it glows! Wow. Love the effect in the cockpit too.
  4. Awesome paintjob. I don't care it's a Tamiya, the paint and weathering makes this model. Wow.
  5. Awesome Scooter. The 'C' does look the best, nose not too long and all. Great looking model.
  6. Nice Kfir. Them Mirage III/V's are really growing on me. And the Kfir is indeed an amazing plane. Lovelly model, great paintjob.
  7. Very nice Super Etendard. You can clearly see the difference between Heller and Academy kits in the down pointing nose. Of course I'm biased towards the Hornet 😉
  8. Looking very good. Despite modelling jets armed, ready to go I've never added that gun door writings. Nice touch.
  9. I've had similar issues on a few trumpeter/hb builds. I seem to remember the 1/72 Su-27. A piece of front fuselage, by the gun port, would not accept plastic glue. I had to use super glue, which was fine. It wasn't symmetrical, /happened on one side of fuselage and not the other. But I haven't had anything like that since I started to sand surfaces before glueing. And I built a Flanker since - no problem. But I never degrease a kit.
  10. Great looking Flanker. Always a pleasure seeing one built.
  11. That's a nice Scooter. I nearly forgot mk.81's even existed. Didn't know they had a SE variant 🙂
  12. Nice little jet. Love the paintjob.
  13. So, Academy, huh? I remember when this kit was released. The excitement, joy and everything. A Hornet kit to end all Hornet kits. After 14 hours and 45 minutes, I'm ready to paint this beast and go forward with the build. So. The kit is indeed awesome. Great detail, nice panel lines and such. Obvioustly, lacks the wingfold option. So wings were cut. And profiled. Why I don't just copy this in resin? It takes about 2 hours to do the wingfold. It's simplier than Hasegawa, plastic is softer. I've never done intakes on Academy Hornet. But figured simple tubing would be ok. So I cut it from 0.1mm plastic. As I wrote earlier - lesson was learnt. So I took a 0.5mm plastic and cut a circle, painted it to represent the turbine face and voila. I tried to make the joint as strong as possible. I was going to insert the intakes in a completed fueselage. So upper and lower halves were completed. Front lower section was going in after the aft lower section. Some wall detaiks on cockpit walls. So this is how intakes looked prior to installation. I added plastic so the turbine faces would have some help stopping. Wouldn't want my engines falling out of intakes, right 😉 I was really hoping for a better picture, but it shows there are minor gaps around the turbine face. All filled now. This time i took a shot of cockpit. Not much to see, really. Main fuselage assembly. Some minor steps were created. And now for something that almost made me sell all of my Academy Hornets. For this I have to go way way back. Please take note, I've not measured real aircraft, didn't check any plans, didn't check how the known diameters scale to 1/72. But I compared my pictures, models in three different scales (hasegawa 1/72 and /48, Kinetic 1/48, Academy 1/32). Long long time ago, in an apartment I still live in, I was trying to become more sentient modeler. Some detailing work and such. So naturally I started with Hornets. During the proces, something was odd about the canopy placement. I was checking pictures and what struck me was that with gear up, the problem was non existent. So I took out a next best thing, a Hasegawa Hornet, and took a couple of comparison shots. Here they are. Both models are placed in pretty much the same spot. Based on these two shots You can clearly see something's really off about the front section of Academy Hornet. If the NLG is in the right spot, this means cockpit is too far placed. What they also clearly show, is Academy botched the relation of ejection seat and NLG. On a Hornet it isn't under the pilot, but a bit aft. Hasegawa got it right. It seems that the NLG attaches to the bulkhead behind the pilot. You can also see the difference in nose appearance and the nose to windscreen transition. Hasegawa nose droops down too much to my eye. Academy nose is a bit too pointed up. So the second set of pics was taken. This time aligned by the nose wheel. As You can more or less see, the Academy kit seems to be longer. So this might cause the difference in perception of cockpit placement. But these are some old pics I took, curious what's up. I'm going to take some more measurments, but right now I can tell You where the problem seems to be placed. Nose wheel well placement. But first... Radomes are almost identical in length. Nose wheel wells are almost the same size. Check how similar they are in shape and size. Nice. And ding ding ding. We have a winner. Too short by about 1mm. But I'm still not convinced. Cockpit placement is similar. Academy seems to have missed the ball on the alignment of the wheel well. By how much? Here is the close up. Sorry for my clumsy fingers. That's OOB. See the panel lines - the first vertical one, by the ecm bump, is in line with the front of the wheel well and the begining of the LEX. This is wrong. This panel line should be more aft, by about 1 mm. I'm not going to fix that this time. But if entire lower nose section would be placed aft... Exactly what I was after. It's just 1 mm. But it makes a lot of difference. Also, with centerline tank attached, the wrong placement of the nlg well is even more obvious. See what I mean about the tank? On a Hornet the fuel tank almost touches the landing gear cover. So there's that to deal with. I chose two spots for the extension. 0.5 mm each, to make sure everything is pretty much where it should be. There's also one more quirk to this kit. You can check the comparison pictures regarding the main landing gear (Do You see the pattern here?). Academy main landing gear looks nice, but is a bit too squarish. So I adjust the angle of gears. Small rod, if I remember correctly 8mm in length. With some details made of masking tape. Huh. I know I know. But it works 😉 You'll see. So this is my Academy Hornet. I checked all the seams, and I'm ready for painting. I actually shot some white paint already on the models. Currently I'm going to take some more measurments, perhaps some comparison shots once again. Thanks for stopping by! Cheers!
  14. So, contrary to the other builds I've actually built the Hasegawa kit to this standard before. Once 😄 Despite habing built it at least 30 times already. Here's my last attempt. So kicking it up a bit I decided to deepen all the panel lines, and make slight adjustments in the cockpit. First order of bussines are the intakes. I've a template to build them. Took a 0.1mm plastic and cut it out. I also cut out the bulkheads for the cockpit form my template. Most parts off the sprues. That's pretty much all You need to build a Hasegawa Hornet. I cut out speed brake well and separated the elevators - the latter I really dislike as it often causes some work filling the seam between the fuselage halves. After cutting up wings, as per my usual standard, I glued them to the upper fuselage. Hey, look, the lex inserts didn't fit. Surprise 😉 I've added some ribbing to the inside of the cockpit. It serves dual purpose - adds some detail to the cockpit walls and also helps with the fit of the lower parts. The turtledeck behind the canopy is a pretty weak spot of the kit. I've sanded it from the underside so it sits flush with the rest of the fuselage. This way I minimise required filling and sanding. Another weakish spot are the tails. The fit isn't best, so I added 0.2 mm strip of plastic to push them out a bit. I had to enlarge the opening in the fuselage too. Nose job. I find the nose on the Hasegawa Hornet a bit drooped and blunt. So i sharpen it a bit and add a little bit of plastic to make it point a bit up. This helps a lot. See? I've not really done much work in the cockpit. The idea is to cut the decals and add them on a bit of the plastic, to achieve a vit of 3d look. Let's see... Looking good, applying it on the 0.2 mm plastic for the upper mfd's and 0,4mm for the center piece. (UFc?) Ok, here it is in place. And in the cockpit. I find it looks much better than just plain decals. And here's my little obsession. Hornet windscreen. I love how the nose of Academy Hornet looks. The nose to windscreen transition looks especially good. So I try and mimick it on the Hasegawa Hornet with a spare Academy Hornet windscreen. Academy part is a bit longer. By a 1 mm or so. It's almost the same width. And looks and fits great on a Hasegawa Hornet. You know there's a vacuform canopy set from Rob Taurus for the Academy kit? 😉 You can also see my completed nose work. It doesn't show that much, untill compared with a OOB unmodded Hornet. And plain Hasegawa windscreen. Ok, it's not that bad. But I much prefer the look with the Academy piece. Here's how it looks right now. I just noticed I've no pics of the intakes. Huh. Shame. I mean they're on the inside of the fuselage, so I kind of can't show how it looks. There is however a lesson to be learnt. I've cut the intakes form 0.1 mm plastic. Also, the fan face was cut from 0.1 mm plastic that I did butt join to the end of the intake. After closing the fuselage they got squished. Had I made fan faces out of thicker plastic and put them inside the intakes, they would not get squished but would inferfere with the fuselage fit, prompting me to adjust the part of the wing that was under the upper fuselage. Lesson learnt. Left intake looks much worse than right. Some additional notes. Hasegawa kit took me 15 hours and 50 minutes to build. About 40 minutes for rescribing, a little less than 3 hours for the wingfold - cutting, filling, shaping, thinning, adding detail to the wingfold and adding the leading edge flaps and trailing edge airfoil. Intakes took 1,5 hours total, but without the filling and sanding of outer intake piece. This shows how much (or how little actually) is needed for Hasegawa kit to get some ok-ish details. Oh. It took me 12 additional minutes to cut the elevators. 6 minutes for the templates and additional 10 minutes for the nose reshape. So total less than 5 hours of additional work. I did not clock the cockpit work though. That's all for now. I'll post an update on the Academy Hornet at a later moment, as there's some additional stuff I wanted to show. Wonderkit my teeth ;). Thanks for stopping by, stay safe and stay healthy.
  15. Hi! So two down, three to go, huh? Here's another one. Fujimi: After 14 hours and 6 minutes of building it's ready for some paint. Frankly, I felt like half of the time I was just puttying and sanding. Fujimi is the only one that features full length intakes. So the first order of bussines was to fill the ejector pin marks and cut down the stubs at the end of each intake half. I will not be putting fan faces before everything is smoothed out. After sanding smooth I glued the halves, applied generous amount of putty on the inside and smoothed everything out with sandpaper on a coctail stick. After that I glued the intakes in their respective places. In order to ease my life a bit trying to put the compressor faces in the intakes I glued a piece of plastic, so they will not fall into the intake. Wings. I really like how Fujimi handled wings. It makes drooping flaps easier with upper and lower half. The worst part usually is having to cut a horizontal line to separate middle flap - an airfoil or something like that. It has to be very thin so sanding from the underside is required. I don't like however the placement of wing pylons. They look pretty much paralel to eachother, while the outer pylon should be slightly aft. Adding optional piece such as the gun door insert (Fujimi provides also the one with searchlight) I find it best to just cut out the inside area - this way I can adjust the piece from the inside. Same apllies to the speedbrake. Apparently I did not take any pictures of completed cockpit. You just have to believe me It's there 😉 The hell hole on Fujimi kit is just a hole. There is no hell there. I guess it's for the best 😉 Seriously, that is my only problem with Fujimi cockpit.I will at a later stage think how to deal with it. First I had to fill the seams. This joint is officially the second worst piece of the kit. I've spent at least an hour filling and sanding it. But at least with some succes. It's smooth now. BTW. Have You noticed how much putty the underside of LEX requires? Sheesh. I guess whenever a company produces a Hornet kit, they have a team meeting saying, "hey, just don't forget the poor fitting lower lex inserts". Well guys, job well done. Not that much of a pain, just curious. The third worst part of this kit is the front to back fuselage join. I required a lot of adjustment. Frankly, I should've put a vertical spreader there, because despite putting additional tabs the parts kind of sunk. Luckilly I could adjust them a bit from the inside. The officially worst part of the kit, fit wise, are the intakes. OOB they look this way. I spent a lot of time to get them eavened out. This is now. A lot of filling and sanding. I don't know how much time I've spent here, I'd say at least two hours. Here it is, just like it looked today morning. I've completed all Hornets, shot white paint on the appropriate pieces. Of course I managed to snap off rudder. Undersides show the holes I made in order to move outer pylons aft. Shame Fujimi made such a bad fit ot he main gear bays. So I guess this would go much faster had I forgo the puttying and sanding. Another spot that required a lot of putty and tlc was the aft fuselage. But frankly I probably just made some errors with fitting. I'm curious how will it look under the coat of paint. Right now I'm not impressed however. There are some nice options in this kit ie. radar, but the kit is massively over engineered. There is no need fot the separate front fuselage. The intakes consist of 4 pieces, but the fit of front to back pieces is very bad. This kit was pretty much the most expensive and I know some people hold it in very hight esteem. It surelly still is a contender for the first place in this showdown. Besides, without all the puttying and sanding it could've been one of the best build times. A little more than 14 hours is really good time for my Hornet build. I've managed to pull off a 20 hours builds, but they were much less involved and on a simplier kits. I think even my Italeri Girppen took 22 hours. I suppose there is more than 10 hours of work still to go. I'm not commenting the shapes and details right now, as I've not yet had them all compared.
  16. Love the exhaust painting. Very nice. One thing, I've never seen such staining on mlg doors. Is that from the brakes?
  17. Lovelly Skyhawk.Great looking paintjob. Though i'm more used to the ones with hump on the back for the IAF.
  18. Nice! Like how F-16 looks clean config.
  19. Always a pleasure to see another F-23. Northrop shure did knew how to build them.
  20. Nice. I like the paintjob. Will have to get one mtyself just to try it out. Shame about the decals though. I'm building an F-4j of VF-96 and they're horrible.
  21. I definatly see where the argument of DGG outer tails comes from. And I suppose You are actually right, based on the posted pictures. The picture of 301 is probably the one I'd say looks the most to have LGG outer tails. Next one would be 314. But I can't say it's 100% LGG, and I know my eyes might be playing tricks on me. To me, both grays are pretty much blue. DGG a bit darker, and perhaps LGG has some creamish bit of hue. All depends on the lighting I suppose. It's been ages since I've seen actual Hornet. And I do remember it being blueish. What I don't have any explanation is the CAG bird. The outer tails look DGG - Dark Gull Gray 😉 Similar to what VFA-83 jets wore on ODS. With what would seem Dark Ghost Gray streaks and Medium Gray tailcode letters. But the background 310's streaks look Dark Gull Gray too. And that would make TB decals wrong color. I'm sold on the Lo-Vis option. If/when I get around to it I know exactly what thread I'm going to revisit. And whenever I order some decals from TwoBobs, I will pick up one more set. Just to be safe 😉 Can't wait for the final reveal!
  22. Makes perfect sense. I often used blue tack when when closing the gear covers on in-flight build. But it's easier to just cut out gear well and glue them from inside. Can't really apply this technique to the F-16 nose though.
  23. I always thought TPS was just Tactical Pain Scheme. Toned down and such. Don't quote me on that one though. Might be just something I picked up on the web 😉 Well, You're right about TwoBobs instructions. I did not check that. Probably that came from people working the actual jet. I admit, on more than one occasion I painted the outside of tails LGG, despite some instruction saying otherwise. Besides, TwoBobs instructions show a picture of NE312 with what I'd say 36375 outer tails. Also, check the contrast on that pic. Paint diagram does'nt seem to affect this. Also, I've another sheet, VFA-87, 48-028 that uses the 36320 outer tails diagram. So my guess would be they did decals right, just not the paint diagram. Regarding the Kinetic kit instructions, I guess they were done by Fightertown decals, which would support they were well researched. But on this pictures I found, the Finnish HN-457 outer fins look to me light ghost gray. https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/5759789 https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/5763883 https://www.jetphotos.com/photo/5763885 Wish it was so easy with the VFA-151 jet. Hey, I found one more recent pic of 164700. http://www.demobbed.org.uk/images/1/164700.jpg?d=030520210609 But that was after a repaint. I guess. Contrast is one thing. But I wonder, what color were the streaks, and tailcode. The color TwoBobs used looks pretty much like Model Master FS 35237 Medium Gray on the decal sheet. With 36375 outer tails it would contrast better. Like the camo pattern of Canadian Hornets. Which makes it slightly confusing. But that's gray Navy jets, huh? The first picture You posted I've very little doubt the upper color of the fuselage and the outside of tails are the same color. One point I'm trying to reference is the side of the fuselage just above / next to the trailing edge flap, where the Dark ghost gray with the inscription NAVY is. It looks so much like the upper color. You can actually see the demarcation. If the tails were 36375, streaks 35237 the tail code might be 36231 for the 'N' and 36320 for the 'E'. But I admit, looking at the picture, that'd be at least slight stretch. But it could be the outer tails are 36320. The streaks look darker though, like almost 36118. Unless it's the lighting. The second picture seems to point more to 36375 for the outer tails. The outer tail is not in the direct sunlight, as is the inboard tail just behind it. I guess I see the minimal difference in colors - but I might just be getting gray crazy. But this pic also shows how stark the contrast is between the fresher (?) patch of paint under the elevator and the BuNo. I suppose it's more stark than contrast of the outer tails and streaks. And if the outer tails would be the 36375, the 'NE" tailcode would probably be 36320. The NE 302 in the background seems to be the same jet as in the first pic You posted. It also looks like the streaks and tailcode are a little darker shade of gray. So You are right there's something off about the color of decals. The BuNo is clearly visible on the second picture. And the base color there is 100% 36375. And I might be wrong about the outer tails color, but I'm still betting on 36375. Afterburner Decals on one sheet I recently saw also showed 36320 as the proper color for the outer tail on Hornets. Obviously, the pics of Vigilantes Hornets I've found didn't really help on the proper shade of ghost gray. The one on the TwoBobs instruction is small, but looks like NE312 had 36375 outer tails. I guess if You wanted to do something about the tails You'd have to mask and paint the streaks. The Tailcode could be perhaps cut from sheet and applied as normal. Or I guess You could shoot a bit of plastic 36375 and put one of the decals from the extra sheet? Sorry for being so a. about color... I really dig this scheme.
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