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About Alleycat

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  • Birthday 03/20/1962

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    San Jose, CA USA

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  1. I would like to offer my condolences to you and your family for the loss of your father. The A-6 Intruder has been a favorite of mine since the 1970's. I currently have a 1/72 Fujimi A-6A in the works. Regarding International Orange, MRP makes it in their laquor line. MRP laquor paints are prethined for airbrushing and spray beautifully. I like them because there is no mixing or thinning required. They clean up with any cheap hardware store laquor thinner. You do need a safe place to spray any laquor paint though, and always wear a respirator, even for acrylic paints. T
  2. "Please tell me that sheet 48-025 is going to be done in 1/72 scale. I have been waiting for some of these markings since the early 1990's. Thank you AOA for getting the VA-196 Main Battery markings right. International Orange is correct, but they seem to have always been done in red before. And thank you for #72-002, it was a great sheet." I sent this to AOA. If all interested 1/72 modelers send them a request maybe we can get them to do it.
  3. I first used Future on my 1986 F-14A Tomcat build. My brother, who told me about it, had been using Future for years. I started coating entire models in preparation for decaling and weathering in the early 1990's.
  4. I need some advice from my fellow modelers. I am trying to get the Aires resin cockpit set to fit into a 1/72 Fujimi F-22 Raptor and the instructions could be better. My two questions are: 1) Do I remove the raised area inside the top fuselage half, just behind the cockpit/canopy, that looks like a three sided square, for the resin part to fit properly? I think probably yes but I am not sure. 2) There is a slot in the floor of the forward resin cockpit that looks like the instrument panel (IP)/coaming part should just sit in it with no problem. However, the resin strip
  5. This may be a little late but a strip of wet newspaper worked for me. Do not put anything with adhesive on it over decals, no matter what they are sealed with. Also, do not build up the paint along the masked line and remove the paper while the paint is still wet.
  6. Curt, the big difference between the F-86E and -F are the wings. The -E has automatic leading edge slats while the -F does not have slats. There used to be a resin backdate set for the Hasegawa -F but that required major surgery where you cut off the front of the wings and grafted on a resin replacement. Most of the best markings and aces from Korea flew the -E so lots of decals have been done over the years. Not so much for the -F. It is not that I am a huge F-86 fan, it's just that most of the aircraft I like have been well served by the plastic modeling industry in the last few decades. It
  7. Curt B, you get all the credit for this new P-38, well done. I almost started my Hasegawa 1/48 P-38-F/G/H last week so I nearly got the credit for this. I actually just finished the Monogram 1/48 P-38 a couple of months before Hasegawa announced theirs back in the early 1990's so I get the credit for that one. A couple of new Tamiya 1/48 P-38s have been on the top of my dream list for decades. I had to pinch myself to make sure I was awake. Now, if we can just get a good 1/48 F-86E... It seems that most of the markings are for the -E while the avilable kits are of the -F. I could
  8. Yes. The Australians had some. Dark green and dark earth upper surfaces over medium sea grey under surfaces. From Kumbhigram, India in 1945. Here is a link to a review of some decals: http://decals.kitreview.com/decals/esp48176reviewjk_1.htm
  9. Bump Still wondering...
  10. Oops, I just remembered it was an Iwata Custom Microm-B I got from Coast, not an HP-B.
  11. +1 for Coast Airbrush (Got an Iwata HP-B) I also have had good experiences with Dixie Art (http://dixieart.com/)
  12. The same goes for the 1/72 Trumpy Boss F-105s, A-7s etc., etc., etc. Why, oh why - so close but no joy. You make some good points Ed, and I guess no kit is perfect but I will need to think about this long and hard. Thanks again for the help. Greg
  13. Ed, Dito what Gene said. Thanks for the detailed help. I think these fixes are a little beyond me for now. I don't think I will buy the Trumpeter kit. I guess if I was to build a 1/72 F-100D I would start with the ESCI kit. Maybe I will just wait a few years and see what happens.
  14. Thanks Robonth, I appreciate the response. I would never have found that. I really love this forum. Has anyone tried, or are there any comments on Renaissance or their 1/72 F-100 nose for the Trumpeter kit linked in the previous post? Accuracy? Detail? Fit? Not quite a full trunk is it? The shape looks better than the kit though. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. Thanks
  15. Well I guess I was wrong about the raised panel lines on the early 1/72 Hasegawa EA-6B. But in my defence I went back to the source I read it in (EA-6B Prowler in Detail & Scale vol. 46 by Bert Kinzey-1994) and on page 66, in the review of the Hasegawa kit, it clearly states "scribing is of the raised variety, but it is nicely done, being both accurate and petite". Kinzey implies that the raised scribing did not change between kits #1137, #K14, #K14X and #SP105. Can't believe everything you read. It is definately recessed in my kit #00893. I believe the "radiation warning" no
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