Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

Fighting Eighty-Four

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Fighting Eighty-Four

  • Rank
    Callsign Victory
  • Birthday February 11

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Akron, OH

Recent Profile Visitors

8,693 profile views
  1. That is beautiful George! Love the moderate yet restrained weathering, and the pics in the hanger dio are very convincing. Well done!
  2. This is a cool thread indeed! Here is my contribution: 1/48 Academy U-2S Dragon Lady Caracal CD48126 - U-2R/S & ER-2
  3. My heart breaks for you to lose your loving soulmate of so long, and I couldn't even begin to imagine the pain you must feel. I will keep you in my prayers, and please know you and your family have my condolences.
  4. No prob, I do that because I often look at finished models by others and wonder what they used in their builds, so I just decided to list everything I use so that it may help others with the same questions I often have. Thanks CJ! I always appreciate your feedback, and it always puts a smile on my face. Thanks Janissary! Your beautiful F-22 build I found from 8 years ago inspired my to build a Raptor myself actually. Thanks Brian, I appreciate the kind words! Thanks so much Gianni! Hopefully someone can find a suitable replacement and do some testing to see what kind of results can be had. Thanks so much Steve! Man, that is some seriously high praise. I am truly honored and humbled to have this be favorably compared to some of the great Raptor builds I have seen.
  5. Thanks Mark! Unfortunately, as you have seen in the Canopy Tint Thread, the polish I used is no longer available. Hopefully a replacement can be found in that thread! Thanks Arnaud! Unfortunately the polish is no longer available. We are having a discussion about it here: Thanks D! Thanks Sys! Just wish Hasegawa would not have made them so ridiculous to begin with. They got the shape right overall, unlike the issues with the Academy nose and tails. But Academy's panels are much better. Doh!!! I have been mentioning the wrong product code for this for a long time! Thanks for the heads up on that. Thanks UD for the kind words as well. It is much appreciated! Thanks Collin! As mentioned in one of my earlier responses the polish I used is discontinued. There is a search for a replacement here: Thanks Ryan! I love this one too, I had to solve a couple of challenges with this one and feel I came up with good solutions. I actually had a Langley liaison officer from the Pentagon contact me to offer to buy it from me (wants it for his desk), but I think I will just gift it to him in exchange for some squadron swag... even though parting with it hurts a little. I'd rather it go to someone serving that would truly appreciate it then for it to stay at home seen mostly by people who could never appreciate it.
  6. The stand is custom made by me using piano black plaque blanks, aluminum bar, plastic baseball card holder, screws, and custom printed info card done in Adobe Illustrator. Here is an album showing how I make them: https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=16625&p=albums&album=50194 Hahaha this made me LOL for real!
  7. Well, since I bought the polish over three years ago I had not considered that it may no longer be available, and after a search it does appear it is discontinued. After some research, I am wondering how nail powders might work. Honestly, I am not even sure how to implement powders, but maybe they could be added to something like future and dipped instead of sprayed on the inside. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ktyssp-Mirror-Nail-Art-Glitter/dp/B082HKHQP4/ref=pd_day0_c_194_1/131-0744312-8217143?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B082HKHQP4&pd_rd_r=b064df9f-6c6a-4e5d-a2d7-98fe84e7fcab&pd_rd_w=IuCJ7&pd_rd_wg=17fTH&pf_rd_p=47a9d55c-4dbb-48fe-a136-8e1abc72e8e6&pf_rd_r=2PQNHJAZ143X4V7YZNX7&psc=1&refRID=2PQNHJAZ143X4V7YZNX7
  8. Bringing this thread back from the grave, but since it is my thread I figured why not! Anyway, I used this technique on my recently completed F-22 Raptor model, and am very pleased with the results and wanted to share them here since this discussion is concerning this very application.
  9. Hi all! Back again with my freshly completed 1/48 Hasegawa F-22A Raptor. So when considering building a Raptor, two things usually come to mind before starting: How to handle the metallic "Raptor Sheen" and "Gold Iridium" tinted canopy. I have seen various approaches to solve these issues, with varying degrees of effectiveness. But since I like to experiment and try new methods, I decided to try techniques for both that I had not yet seen done. For the "Raptor Sheen", I decided to paint the normal camo colors (non-metallic), and then add a light coat of Alclad Airframe Aluminum on top of those colors. I wasn't sure how that would come out, but once completed I was pleasantly surprised by the subtle variable sheen I was getting and how it really blended the camo in a very realistic way to my eye. Hmmm, maybe I was on to something! I did worry about how the sheen would hold up after the gloss coat, wash, and flat coat, however. And indeed, the sheen was diminished quite a bit after these steps, so I did go back in after the flat coat was applied and added some Airframe Alumuminum randomly and very lightly. This actually really worked well, because this gave the model a bit of an uneven sheen, which seems to be what happens on the real aircraft as it weathers. Since I was going for a moderately weathered Raptor, this was right on point for what I was looking for. As for the canopy, this is something I had been thinking about how to handle for a long time. I did experiments a while back on a spare Tamiya P-51 canopy and found that a particular nail polish I found on eBay worked pretty well. I did not know how that would translate on a finished model, but was very happy to see that the effect was exactly what I was looking for, and something I had not seen done on any previous Raptor model. In person the effect is very cool, depending on how you view the model and how the light hits it, the canopy is either opaque gold/reddish, all gold, or even translucent gold where the pilot is clearly visible inside. As for how I applied the nail polish to the canopy, I mixed the polish with Mr Color Levelling thinner at a pretty high ratio of thinner to polish. This was applied to the INSIDE of the canopy then dipped in future to protect the polish and to increase the canopy luster. As for decals, the ones supplied in the kit are just not of the right color, so I had to source aftermarket, which is not easy! There is really not much available right now. I wanted to to an Alaskan Raptor, but there just weren't any usable decals I could find for that. I did luck out in finding a set of TwoBobs Langley Raptors decals, and went with those. They performed quite well and the color was right on IMHO. Other than the decals, this was completely out of box. The Hasegawa Raptor is a nice kit, and fitment is quite good overall, but this is a seriously over-engineered kit. There were so many internal braces and guide pin style interior assemblies that I actually had to cut some off and remove others to get the fuselage halves to line up right. That may have just been me, so I dunno about others. Another issue with this kit is the over-scale raised panels. Many people sand these down and replace lost detail, but I wasn't really in the mood to do that, so I left them be. I wasn't too bothered with them, and on the finished, weathered model, they really don't stand out as much as they do on the bare plastic. By doing this in-flight with closed bays, no weapons, and no landing gear it was a rather fast build of one month. This has really helped me get my modelling mojo back! Overally, I am very very happy with how this model turned out, and how my approaches to solve the problems of the sheen and canopy worked like a charm! Here is what I used for this build: Kit: 1/48 Hasegawa F-22A Raptor (07245 PT45) Decals: TwoBobs F-22A "Langley's Raptors" (48-123) Aftermarket: NONE Paints: Gunze Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 (main aircraft primer base), Tamiya Liquid White Primer (for marble coat), Mr Paint MRP-094 FS36251 Medium Mod Gray, Gunze Aqueous H308 Light Ghost Gray and H305 Gunship Gray, Tamiya Rubber Black, Clear Red, and Clear Blue, Gunze Mr Color GX2 Gloss Black (gloss black primer for metalwork) and Alclad II Airframe Aluminum and Burnt Iron. Future Gloss coat for decals and Future+Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base 6:1 ratio for final matte coat. Mig Ammo Deep Gray panel wash. Now on to the pics!
  10. Thanks! Yep, the XF-21 is very powerful stuff. It's actually intended to be added to paints to make the finish flat, but in this case, mixed with future, it's very effective and cheap to make a fantastic variable matte/gloss finish. So I make this in batches in an emptied Gunze Mr Surfacer jar, and use pipettes to get the ratio right. I usually do 12 full pipettes of future and 2 full pipettes of flat base per batch, and that is enough to last me a half dozen 1/48 models or so. I also add a pipette or two of Mr Color Levelling thinner to each batch.
  11. Thanks Ryan! I appreciate the kind words! Thanks Falcon! I really love this scheme as well, and don't usually see it done on the two seater. Thanks Da Swo! So the sidewinder with no front fins is also called an ACMI pod? Thanks Underdog, I appreciate the compliment! Yep, that is correct! You can adjust the amount of matte or gloss by changing the ratio. I have found 6:1 works best for me. I have found you don't really want to go below about 3:1 or you will get some frosting.
  12. That is great news! I really want to build the Moroccan Viper, but this sheet is nowhere to be found. 🙂
  13. Hi all! So I am just now getting to posting pics of a build I completed last month... Anyway, here is my 1/48 Hasegawa F-16D Arctic Aggressor of the 18 AGRS at Eielson AFB, Alaska, 2008. I have always loved this aggressor scheme, and modelling it in a two-seat F-16D variant seemed only right! The Hasegawa F-16 kit is actually quite nice for it's age and very good fit. It is a rather simple kit, not a huge amount of parts really and I enjoyed the build. The F-16D kit I used is an older one, and did not have the correct "wide mouth" intake I needed, so I sourced that from a Hasegawa F-16CJ kit I have. As far as aftermarket, I used a Black Box F-16D cockpit set, Master Model Pitot, the Hasegawa Weapons Set for the ACMI pod and Meng U.S. Weapons Set for the CATM-9. The other sidewinder with no front fins (not sure what this one is called, TBH) is from the kit and just modified by removing the fins and rounding the nose substantially. As for decals, I was used Afterburner Decals Arctic Aggressors set. I got really lucky finding that sheet at a local show for less than $10! I have been very lucky finding rare decal sets at the Cleveland Model Show over the years. Other than that everything else is OOB. Despite the ease of this kit it took me a long time (by my standards) to build due to modelling mojo loss and winter doldrums I suppose. The finished product, while I am happy with it, is not my best work to be sure. Cut a lot of corners and didn't put my usual effort into it. Here is what I used for this build: Kit: 1/48 Hasegawa F-16D FIghting Falcon (06106 V6) Decals: Afterburner Arctic Aggressors (48-034) Aftermarket: Black Box F-16D Cockpit Set, Master Model Pitot, Hasegawa Weapons Set D (X48-8) Paints: Gunze Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 (main aircraft primer base), Tamiya Liquid White Primer (for marble coat), Mr Paint MRP-246 FS36628 Arctic Gray, Gunze Aqueous H317 Dark Gull Gray and H305 Gunship Gray, Tamiya Rubber Black, Clear Red, and Clear Green, Gunze Mr Color GX2 Gloss Black (gloss black primer for metalwork) and Alclad II Airframe Aluminum and Burnt Iron. Future Gloss coat for decals and Future+Tamiya XF-21 Flat Base 6:1 ratio for final matte coat. Mig Ammo Deep Gray panel wash. Now on to the pics!
  14. Well, it is official! Boxart for the Kitty Hawk Su-30SM was posted by Song Wang of Kitty Hawk on the Kitty Hawk FB Group... Although, I am a bit disconcerted that the boxart calls it a Flanker-C when in fact it is a Flanker-H. But I am sure that will be fixed for the release.
  • Create New...