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Ed DeVivo

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About Ed DeVivo

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 08/07/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    S. Florida
  • Interests
    1/48, 1/32 post war jets

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3,724 profile views
  1. Thank you all for the replies!! It certainly helped, and I went with the uv clear resin and I was impressed... I learned that you can also use Tamiya thin cement, which I used as well.. Thanks! -Ed
  2. 48 views not one response.. My God what's happened to ARC... lol
  3. Greetings... I am going to use Clear Gorilla Glue to attach the canopy of a 1/48 F-15 to its frame. Here's my question. I know its a very long drying time, and while Im not worried about it drying clear, which it certainly does, my concern is holding the canopy in place on the frame until it cures. Taping and clamping is off the table due to the convex shape of the canopy and the two pieces being somewhat cumbersome. I can see that actually becoming disastrous. I thought of uv clear epoxy w/ a uv led light, as it cures in 2 minutes or so, and I can simply hold it in place.. Anyway, are there a
  4. Thank you all for the replies!!! I used the recommended thinner and used it on a paint mule, and Im amazed how great it was to apply and the result was just what I wanted. I used AK Real Colors Gloss, with its own thinner.. Fantastic. I then used Mr Hobby GX-114 with its own leveling thinner. Amazing... I think I pressed through my clear coat concerns! Thanks!!!
  5. I'm finally at the point of putting on decals on this F-15E I've been at for God knows how long now. The Paint is AK Real Colors acrylic Lacquer based and went on super smooth. The paint does not need gloss prior to decals, but I'm going to put a light coat over the decals when I'm finished to seal them in and protect from weathering. Heres my question. I will be using Mr. Color GX 114 which is a 40/60 ratio varnish to lacquer thinner. I'm wondering if the thinner will ruin the topcoat of lacquer paint. It's been cured now a week or so.. I always dread this part of sp
  6. Opinions. When do you start the metallizer process? I'm primed, base coated, and ready to apply decals. Ill apply a gloss coat over the decals to seal them in, pin wash then flat coat.... At what do you guys spray the metallizer paint? I don't want to flat coat it after decals, weathering etc. and I heard that taping over it to mask off the metallizer caused it to lift when removing the tape.. Just some opinions and suggestions and have a great day!! -Ed
  7. Thanks for the suggestion but.. I ended up stripping all the varnish and paint right down to the bare plastic. Even after a week, the varnish never properly cured. It was soft and sticky to the touch and easily left fingerprints. I dabbed an area with decal setting solution which ruined the varnish so I stropped it all,and will repaint! This time, however, I will use a lacquer gloss varnish if at all. Its a shame, because the paint went on smooth as silk, and decals would have layed nice. If I get the same result, I'll decal, then shoot a gloss to seal them..
  8. Thank you Chuck.. What piqued my interest in this particular varnish, was that it did not need to be thinned. Shake the plastic bottle and fill the airbrush. The varnish gets good reviews, but what I did was apply too thick of a coat. I am not crazy about how it layed down. What I also did, was let the model rest inside my airbrush booth, with a plastic cover on the front opening to prevent dust/dog hair etc... After several days, I'm moving it to an area where there is some airflow and warmth so that it may harden more. At the end of the day, I think it will be ok but... Next tim
  9. ON an additional note, try it out on a paint mule. I made a mistake varnishing last Monday, and I may end up tossing the entire model I spent months building. Dont do what I did.
  10. Lacquer over lacquer should be fine. I sprayed all different brands of flat/matte coats over Future years ago, no issue..
  11. Wow 37 views not a single response.. What has happened to these forums? Did everyone go elsewhere?
  12. I don't mind saying that this stage was always the most dreadful to me. The new varnish I used is drying very tacky. I used some flo-extender, from the same manufacturer and this is more than likely the reason why. I used a clean airbrush, large 05 needle and it went on way too thick, and spit... That why I added the flo-extender.. Its been about 40 hrs now and still tacky, but, it is drying. One issue is that in a area or two it did not level and clumped. How is this removed? Im hoping I didn't ruin this and need to use this as a paint mule after hours spent working on the cockpi
  13. Definitely acyrilic. Its VMS Varnish.. I don't think Im overly worried, because the area is about a square inch and if I have to buff it I will. The only thing is that I regret using this varnish, as it takes forever to dry. 36 hrs and still tacky. I'm not thrilled with the way it sprayed, but it looks good. The self leveling is decent. I should have used Tamyia X-22 but oh well there's the next build. VMS gets great reviews, and I'm not complain just wish it dried faster. While were on this, what do you guys use for gloss varnish, and flat/matte varnishes???
  14. Where do you get a hose? Cant find one on Amazon and yes I agree, you cant go wrong with this.. I want it for shooting primers and varnishes.. Thanks! -Ed
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