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Aurora Mark

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Everything posted by Aurora Mark

  1. SLOWLY?! Your build is coming along at almost lightning speed, considering all the work you're doing! The build continues to have me amazed at the work that you do, and how you go about doing it. This is a superb guide for what I'm doing. I can't wait to see more of it! Cheers, Mark.
  2. I really like this method because of the locking teeth. I would suggest shorter lengths for smaller kits, for sure, and they don't need to be along the entire length of the fuselage. The down side to this method, is that it does not lend itself well to sharp turns/curves, like the leading or trailing edge of a wing for example. There are certainly times when straight perfect cuts aren't needed, like the locking tabs for example. An approximate width (as you can see from the shot looking inside the fuselage) is definitely close enough. But for areas where very straight cuts are needed on th
  3. Whitey, you're COD looks fantastic. I've never really seen a COD being built up, but from all the reference pictures out there, I think you're certainly setting the bar high up! Cheers, Mark. ps. You should order that 1/48 Vac of the P-3 now... by the time you're wrapping up the COD, your straight-jacket P-3 will be ready for you!
  4. Agreed! Both with the salt weathering and the touch-up technique, but for the touch ups, I would make them a little more pronounced. Still a feathered edge, but just a little sharper and narrower. Your build so far is excellent! Welcome back to the hobby. This site also motivated me to come back recently as well. Pretty great place, eh? Cheers, Mark.
  5. Ooooooohhhhhhh..... very nice! Very nice indeed. You certainly picked a good one as your only 2014!
  6. Early aircraft used braided wires. The issue with many of the braided wires was the drag that all these wires and bracing caused. You had two dilemmas the wires had with them. First, if you wanted to go faster, or be more maneuverable, you needed them to hold everything together; the faster you went, the more drag and strain was generated by these braided cables. So, as C2J mentions, starting in the late 20's and early 30's, it became quite common for a streamlined rod to be used that had a teardrop-like shape, to help reduce the drag created by the braided cables. To answer your original qu
  7. A bottle and a half?! That's it? Kidding! Wow! The scheme you are going with is a favourite of mine. Enough to catch the eye, but not enough to detract from the model. Oh wow, this is going to be something else!
  8. Any test shots of this aircraft model? And what is the expected release date and approximate cost? Will it be available with distributors in Canada, or would they be ordered through your site? Thanks! I'm really looking forward to this kit becoming available? Mark.
  9. Glad that the pipe worked out nicely! Looking superb good Sir. Can't wait to see more. Mark.
  10. For this part of the build, I used these tools: The first thing I needed to do was measure the thickness of the floor - 1 mm. As the line drawn on the fuselage was the top of the floor, I needed to add the guide strips low enough to make sure the top was flush with the line: Then it was simply dabbing some medium glue on one end, and rolling out the strip so that it was good and level: I only added the strips up to the stretch section, as the area that tapered in needed a bit more attention, and I wanted to make sure that the forward area of the floor was level first. And here is t
  11. From here, all the way around the fuselage, this was repeated, alternating the tabs I was gluing in from port to starboard all the way around. Here is the second tab glued in: And here is the whole job completed: Now it was time to match up the fuselage halves and see how well they sat, and to see where the work would need to be done. The section pictured above really wasn't a surprise, so a bit more work will be done here by adding some plasticard underneath. I wont worry too much about it until it is time to mount the vertical stab, then I can do it all at once: The fuselage sec
  12. So, I briefly had mentioned about gaps in the fuselage that I wanted to take care of first before anything inside. Here is a good example, where the vertical stab spine comes to join the fuselage; just forward of it, I sanded a bit too aggressively, so I'll need to fix my error: Periodically you'll see me using various strips of plasticard. Evergreen offers a wide variety of strips and sheets. For some things, I'll use the strips, like in this update. But that is using up old stock I had left over from a while back. Frankly, looking at the prices, if I can, I'll get the sheets, based simpl
  13. Thank you very much! I am happy to hear that my posts are helping folks out there. Makes the how-to/photographs worth while! Thank you! Joel, Thank you kindly for your words. The plan was to have as much room as possible on the spars afforded to the top and bottom plates, to allow for rigidity. There is still some flex in the structure, so that it isn't 100% stone-solid, and this was to allow for anything that happened to the model in regular handling and moving. I wanted to prevent the shock from any bangs or bumps be taken up completely by the plastic. The next step with the act
  14. Model Master gloss coat (from the rattle can) will protect the plastic just the same. I use this when gluing thin clear plastic down as a gauge face to simulate the look of glass. Cheers, Mark.
  15. The diving A-36 looks really neat, And the 707 really pops. All around great work.
  16. The -27 looks absolutely brilliant! A really fantastic bit of work you did there. I'm looking forward to seeing what 2015 brings! Cheers, Mark
  17. I like it all, except for the Green Shirt next to the catapult shuttle - a wee bit close to the port intake to be standing up that tall? I'd replace them with a crouching figure or have them a little further away. Aside from that little point, it all looks fantastic! I love the clear canopy you have done; it allows for a near perfect view into the cockpit to see all the finer details you added. Cheers, Mark.
  18. Very impressive rivet and panel line work. I will most certainly be taking a few methods you've shown here to work on the engraved panel lines and rivets that I want to add to the -140. Thank you for your in depth how-to styled posts; they make it very easy and enjoyable to read and follow along. I'm looking forward to seeing and reading more of your work. Cheers! Mark.
  19. The most difficult thing now that the spar box has been constructed, is to ensure that everything lines up properly within the wing. I want to make bridge plates between the spars, so that the weight of the entire body of the model (aside from the weight holding the nose down forward of the ole tipping point) is moved straight down over top of the main wheels. Yes, no matter what I would have done, the MLG would take the weight of the model. True. But, my plan is to have the spar box move the load, not the plastic fuselage/floor/wing joint. What I want to prevent would be... well, let's take
  20. Happy birthday Alexander. All the best! Mark.
  21. Next up was to get a strong mounting point and spar face-piece (for lack of a better phrase) to have this brass piece mounted solid to the aircraft. The trick was to ensure that the joint was both strong, but in a place that would prevent inadvertent flexing of the fuselage or wings with the weight of the kit. So, the wing roots on the inside were my first choice. As you can see in this picture, they are crisp, flat, large, and just perfect for the task: With the shape of both port and starboard inner wing roots being different from one another... ...to get the right shape, the first thi
  22. Oh yes good Sir, definitely still chugging along with this one. Thank you for your comment (and I apologize for missing it before). Work has certainly continued, and I had mentioned that I wanted to do it all as one update, but, well, there's a lot, and I'd like to be able to go into a few details (especially with the hit/miss issues), rather than breeze through it. So, here we go. I wanted to have a spar that had the right angle for dihedral, and could be two pieces, rather than three like the actual aircraft spar would have been. So, measuring things out, I found the dihedral angle from
  23. Your flight deck is done very nicely, it is very clean and crisp! Absolutely fantastic work as always. I admire how even the work that wont be readily seen is still very clean, neat, and professionally built/completed. Stunning. Always setting that bar up high. Cheers, and I'm looking forward as always to more of your work. Mark.
  24. Joel, yeah, it is something odd. I asked around and no one else has had the same issues that have used this set - so... a new kind of warping that I have not seen, or anyone else? I hope the hinges aren't going to be that different once done. I really don't have it in me right now to redo the hinges on the kit pieces. I'm just going to continue as is for now. Kstruz, This is by far one of the most enjoyable builds that, for the most part, is out of the box. If anyone wants to build it straight from the box, it will be a fantastic kit. Given what you are doing with the Fulmar, I can't wai
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