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About jenshb

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/04/1965

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  • Location
    Essex, UK
  • Interests
    Planes, cars, ships and military vehicles in the approximate order (planes always first) from WW2 to the present.

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  1. PJ Productions have a range of pilots in 1:72. Resin. Available from the source or Hannants.
  2. If you have an Aggressor boxing of the Tamiya kit, and you build a GE F110 powered model, then you have the nozzle and "doughtnut panel" for the P&W spare. The doughnut panel will fit the Hasegawa kit with a little sanding, and then you can use the nozzle and afterburner from the Tamiya kit. Or get the KA-Models exhaust.
  3. How about wing tanks, , and ALQ-119 on the starboard wingpylon and a Mk.43 Nuke on the belly? Maybe a couple of Sparrows on the rear fuselage stations for self defence en-route...
  4. For the turkey feathers of the F100 engine I have used Alclad Pale Burnt Metal with dark grey rubbing areas.
  5. The AFV Club F-5E is a nice kit, but as a replica there are a couple of things I don't like shapewise: The forward fuselage is too rounded in crossection, and has a "coke-bottle-effect" on the belly under the cockpit. The real thing is more like a rectangle with rounded corners, whereas the kit looks like the sides are bulging. The other thing is the front of the intakes that are curving inwards whereas they should be more in line with the airflow.
  6. The Tarangus boxing of the 1:72 kit has paint matches for Gunze/MrColor. Can't recall what they were, and I didn't buy the kit. I think the 1:48th scale kit has paint matches to the same paints, but I will have to check when I get home. Unless someone else beats me to it:)
  7. The forward fuselage of the X-29s were taken from F-5As, so the Kinetic Freedom Fighter would be a better starting point than the F-20.
  8. Arizona ANG with copper coloured spinner, wing tips and fin tip.
  9. Try using Tamiya Smoke and mix in some Tamiya Flat Base to make a matt finish. Thin well, and you will be able to build up exhaust stains very subtly.
  10. Never heard of a size difference, but aftermarket stabs for example may not match the curvature of the GWH kit in that area. Try sanding the stabs trailing edges thinner, although you may have to replace any raised detail.
  11. I believe the F-5s were all painted silver from the factory, but white does make it easier to spot for leaks...
  12. I can't recall where I found this photo (I have cropped it to make the file smaller), but this shows the prototype with white wheel wells.
  13. If starting with the Hasegawa kit, you will need to get a set of F-15A/B wheels, but they are available in resin (or a spare set from the GWH kit) and an Escapac seat. Aires makes Escapac seats for both A-7Ds and A-4s, but I don't know how well they will fit the Hasegawa cockpit - they do look a little on the small side. GWH includes both Escapac and ACES II seats, but they are oversized in my opinion. However, they can be shortened. I used a pilot figure to determine a better looking height. The forward undercarriage doors were open with the main gear down on the early Eagles, and there is a brace that opens and shuts the doors (more visible on the larger door). As current kits reflect the later production, they are to be glued shut, so therefore that brace is not included in kits. The speedbrake and spine will need to be modified to a semicircular crossection as well as reduced in size, but that is doable with some Milliput and plasticard. Filling in the dogtooth is easy, and some curved and laminated plasticard will take care of the squared off wingtips. To make the thicker and shorter mass balances on the tailfin, plastic rod in a Dremel will shape those quite easily. Add the Master prototype pitot boom, and you're all set.
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