sturmgruppe

Besides building static display models I also build flying models. In our quest for the Holy Grail of glue applicators I came across this one on a flying model site: Micro Cementeur Has anyone ever heard of this thing or had any experience with it? Not for use with CA but maybe with TENAX?? Honestly it looks a bit complicated but just maybe THIS might be.........

For synthetic brushes with curled tips you can place the bristles into boiling water and they may straighten out. I've had mixed results but i have been pleasantly surprised many times. I would not use this technique on sabel brushes. sturmgruppe

You might want to try one of these Modeling Saw Scriber Set

I own a Squadron Seam Scraper and remain thoroughly unimpressed. It doesn't do anything more than you could do with the back edge of an EXACTO blade. I do swear by the Flex-I-File as noted by others in this post. Those pesky external tank seams are really no different than a fuselage seam. Just dry-fit, dry-fit, dry-fit to get the best seam, get the TENAX flowing and clean it up using the putty and acetone technique. Good luck on your F-18!

Use Rub-N-Buf with Model Master Aluminum Non-Buffing Metalizer for a good BMF. That's right, NON-BUFFING Metalizer. A little bit of Rub-N-Buf goes a long way so use it sparingly and make sure the surface of the model before painting is smooth as a baby's behind.

Gotta' agree with bilkeau on this one. You didn't indicate which brand of acrylic paint you use with your AZTEK. The use of the correct thinner will make a difference. If you're using Tamiya use their brand of thinner, it's a bit pricey but it works. With Gunze use distilled water. Another thing I do is to add a single drop of Liquitex FLOW-AID to the paint needed for an airbrushing session, you can pick this up at an art supply store. I would suggest you buy several sheets of styrene to practice with, don't use paper or cardboard they're too absorbent and will distort the results you ne

I'm in the same league as you Don, but I have my 1/72 Cat and a resin cockpit but haven't selected my decals yet. This will be my first venture with aftermarket resin but thanks to you guys on ARC I am learning everyday day.

Here's an article on spray booths that interesting from the standpoint of proper sizing of components. Spray Booth Design and Fan Selection You must exercise caution when using electric motors in this type of service. Sparks, short circuits and vapors from solvents don't mix very well. As noted in this article: Now, what type of fan? Bathroom, kitchen, induction motor, inside the booth, outside the booth…? You normally won't find an electric motor in the air stream of a production type spray booth, unless it's an explosion proof motor. 1:1 booths use externally mounted explosion proof

Looooking goooood, BTW what kit is this? I assume it's 1/48.

I was using CA along a seam and some got on the surface mode. I was going to mask off the area and sand, sand, sand,... until I saw a post that one could use a debonder to remove the cured CA. So I went out and got some debonder. The directions on the debonder say to apply it directly to cured CA, allow it to penetrate then "begin rubbing, brushing or sanding off softened adhesive." Something is telling me it's not simple if I want a decent looking surface after following these directions. How do others on the forum use debonder without botching the surface?

My local hobby shop has a Fujimi 1/72 F/A-18C Hornet available. The kit has some photetched parts, parts for the radar and decals for VFA-25 and VFA-113. He put it aside for me and I have to let him know if I'm going to purchase it. Can anyone give me some feedback on this kit? Thanks in advance.

Thommo I have the A470 that comes in the wooden box and all. I might try that WD40 trick. Bunnings Hardware over here sells the small cans, so as long as they have the tube applicator, be worth using! Can this thread be added to the pinned maintenance thread so it is available ad infinitum? Question is, would the WD40 affect the paint coming out of the airbrush at all? :lol: MikeJ Here's a website showing pictures of the inside of an Aztek, it will give you some idea of where the drop is being applied. Inside an Aztek

I've been using an AZTEK since 1997 with decent results even with acrylics. Remember to be absolutely meticulous when it comes to cleaning - don't take any shortcuts! Check the PINNED topic at the top of Tools 'n' Tips Forum named: Aztek Cleaning and Maintenance Tips. Do a search on AZTEC as noted by David Thompson and you will see the pro's and con's of this airbrush. I would recommend buying some different nozzles, experiment and find out what works best for you.

Sheet brass should be OK. But ferrous alloys????? I have my doubts. You might want to investigate further if you intend to solder or braze ferrous alloys. What's required in the way of heat inputs, etc. Maybe someone who does resistance soldering might be able to shed some light on this. This euipment is used mostly by people who build brass model locomotives so maybe you can also post the question to a model RR board for better help.

I'm working on a Hasegawa 1/72 F-18A, believe me it's no bargain either. I'm also fitting, filling and sanding. I feel your pain :)