WymanV

uBlock blocks it here but I noticed it's been a year since that page has been updated as well.

To pile on, here are a few I took of EAA's Aluminum Overcast many years ago (over 20 I'm sure) of the starboard nacelle. The front bulkhead is to the left in the first pic, looking at the rear bulkhead in the second and a closer look at the duct in pic 2 in the third pic. Wish I had gotten more but there was a crowd as I recall.

I stick to a scale. I don't want them to look odd on display together.

Dana Bell to the rescue: Aircraft Pictorial #3 OS2U Kingfisher, page 71-"All Kingfisher floatplanes carried a handling line on the upper surface of each wing."

It was on both sides and since they were hand painted they were not quite the same.

The only trouble I had with this build is the instrument panel was too wide. After taking about 1mm off around the top "arc" with a sanding stick it fit like a glove. If I needed another one I'd happily build another. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/312333-the-defiant-ones/

You might also want to look at model railroad stuff. Between decals and dry transfers they have a lot available.

I do remember that from building both kits side-by-side for a group build here many years ago (remember "group builds"?). When compared the Hasegawa wheels were noticeably skinnier and they got replaced with aftermarket.

If I feel a need to take a break from scale modeling I'll build an Accurate Miniatures Dauntless.

The new tooled Helldiver was a Pro Modeler offering. And wasn't the ME-410 as well?

"LOL wut"?

Indeed... (sigh) Now I have to go through all my Tamiya kits and throw the decals away, lest I never become an intermediate modeler 😞

I've used Pledge based on a recommendation on one of these discussion groups but I can't say with certainty that it helped. I still get dust. I can see it suspended in air and suddenly drawn to the part I'm painting like a magnet to steel. There are anti-static solvents I've used in my auto body days to prep plastic parts for paint that I should look into and I have some specialized anti-static tac rags but it just seems to be an element of life in this part of the world.

Never had issue with their decals. Once the final coats are down I see no difference.

There weren't any proper hobby shops near where I grew up in the 1970s but Portage Wisconsin was the closest town of significance and department stores back then carried plastic kits. Mom hit the laundromat there every Saturday and turned the three of us kids loose in town with our allowances (the premise was for doing our chores but as I get older I believe she was just buying us off for some quiet time). Woolworths five & dime was still a thing back then and Portage had one, complete with a lunch counter and a selection of kits (I remember getting the AMT 1/48 B-26 there, and they had a

I remember it well. Never participated tho.

Someone brought the airbrush cleaner thing to our attention either here or on M2 a few years ago. Promptly bought a bottle and I'm sure it's a lifetime supply now. My go-to for fast setting liquid cement is Styrene Tack-It II which is the same as the long discontinued Tenax 7R. I use it out of a repurposed Tamiya Extra Thin jar. And my choice for the time being for the heavy lifting is the discontinued Model Master Liquid Cement For Plastic Models #8872 although I'll still use good ol' Testors orange tube paste cement for wing and fuselage halves.

It would be painted silver for corrosion control. It was actually aluminum powder mixed into lacquer clear coat.

I held on to their 1/48 F-5E kit for the longest time in hopes someone would start a Crap Kit Group Build. I finally caved and built it with bits from the Academy P-38 "multi kit". It wasn't terrible...

Roll Models sold out to Kitlinx in 2018 IIRC.

I'm nearing the end of a personal Battle of Britain theme build right now which included Spitfire Mk.Is from Airfix, Tamiya and Eduard. Airfix: I like their most recent moldings of the plane. There is a red boxing out there that is labeled Mk.I/Mk.Ia/Mk.IIa and if you see it, run away. It is their older reworked mold and no longer measures up. There is just enough detail to keep the build moving without being fiddly and it looks the part when it's finished: The Tamiya and Eduard kits are equally fiddly. Tamiya doesn't rely on photo etch for some of the co

Might be tricky to answer to what they're actually doing to the plane but if the question is why is it on a carrier? Operation Torch.

The last 2 cars I built I stripped with brake fluid. One because I dropped it while it was wet 😡 and the other because it was well over 20 years since I painted the body, never finished it and it really needed fresh paint. That one soaked in brake fluid for 3 days before it started cutting through the paint. I have never had issues with brake fluid damaging styrene.

I've bought kits on a facebook group called Scale Model Trader with success.

I just use brass screen available at my local hardware store. Comes in many sizes and I can cut it to fit with an old pair of scissors.