Nathant

Also a must have for any Hasegawa kit requiring an unslotted stab. Because of what I pointed out in my previous post.

The unslotted stab. in the Hasegawa kit is undersized in span and chord. This has long been known, as Hasegawa corrected this in their slotted stab version when they re-tooled for recessed pane lines. So I would use the slotted version in all kits for a more accurate, direct comparison.

You realize it’s pre-thinned and you’re not adding extra thinner are you? I’ve used MRP before and have never needed that many coats, especially over a good primer. Are you using a primer?

Gunze C306 lacquer, H306 water based

Yes, not just C specific, depends on time frame.

Silver gear legs and green zinc chromate landing gear door insides. Except possibly the inner most main gear door sometimes got over sprayed with the exterior belly color of camouflage gray. White gear and bays were post war.

Thanks Habu, I've read conflicting info on Airforce A-7s, as Wolfpack offers the Aero 3B? but maybe its a typo or mistake? Wow, Dave! to the rescue with another nice set! Aftermarket Bol rails are hard to come by. Am I right then that your set 48-8039 would be appropriate for any US AirForce phantom carrying an Aim 9P/U and also Aim 9M/L?

Thanks Scott and Niels, I am aware of Dave's wonderful products as well as Phase Hangar, and even Metallic Details and Wolfpack, they all have some resin Missile launchers, But which ones do I need? Aero 3B for F-4s and the A-7D? What about the British Harrier? Lau-7s? Lau-114s?

Looking for advice for some upcoming 1/48 builds that I want to use aftermarket missile launch rails for a more realistic look while displayed without a missile mounted on them. what launchers are appropriate for A-7D Corsair? Harrier GR. 7 Telic? And a post Vietnam slatted wing US F-4e as I see the ones in the upcoming Meng F-4E look pretty bland. Thanks for the hep!

I believe south front is is an ICM Rebox? If so it is very crude and less detailed, Modelsvit should be much better and ironically more accurate than the Accurate Miniatures kit. You are making good progress, I’ve always liked the looks of the Yak fighters.

Do you live in the States? If so, any shipping issues?

Are you speculating? Cause I’m hoping to move beyond speculation and maybe hear from a retailer or distributor or someone in the know... nothing seems to make sense, as Zoukie Mura F-4E seemed to make its way to spruebrothers on time without issue...

Shipping! And my international packages tend to sit in Chicago or New Jersey for months on end.... covid has set us back decades....

Do not know. Also no Revell or GWH restocks in the States either. Will we even see the Meng Hornet?

Anyone know when the new 1 48 Kinetic Harriers will be available in the States? Spruebrothers?

Yeah I’m just wondering because all UK outlets have had it in stock since mid November

No knows or has it?

Anyone know when this kit will hit the states? Or has it and I missed it? All US based stores do not have it, Spruebothers etc...

Hi all, I am building a Tornado GR4 during Operation Telic and wondering about aircraft load. I want to build a jet carrying storm shadows, and wondering what would be mounted on the inboard wing pylon rails. Were Aim-9s always loaded? What about BOL rails? Did they appear early on in the conflict in 2003, or not until later? Would Sidewinders also be mounted to the BOLS?

Travel pod?

No....

Not a single close up photo? What is this? I guess I’ll have to take your word that a gloss coat isn’t needed?

They have not! And thanks for this from a fellow North Dakotan modeler.

Absolutely this. The Revell kit has detail that rivals Eduard/Tamiya/Hasegawa. The fit issues are mostly preventable by following other build guides. I just finished an Italian IDS and the surface detail just pops perfectly all around on the finished model.

This is exactly the way I do it. It did the Monogram F-101 Voodoo and I worked a small area at a time, removing the old raised line and scribing the new one in its place. The outline is still visible to follow. I would also take a picture of all the parts of the kit to see where all the detail and rivets go, in case I didn’t find accurate drawings.