Jessirelli

Thanks guys!

Hi all! So I acquired 17 built models from a guy who acquired them from an estate sale for literally cheap as potting soil. He knew nothing about them and was about to hang them in his kid's room but they decided to remodel (pun intended) the house and never got around to it. I'm keeping all the planes with American markings and using the rest for airbrush practice or color testing (except maybe the yellow winged plane). But before I do I was just curious what these planes are since I mostly build 1/48 American combat jets..

Hello arcforumers, Looking for the Mountain Home (MO) tailcode. If you have it in your spares and don't intend to use it, give me a PM. Thanks!

Decals and oil wash

Thanks Gianni! More progress shots. Center pylon cut to size and added anti swing braces. Secret Tamiya recipe for Light Ghost Gray. Bombs away! Seeker heads I came this far, might as well go all out on the resin accessories. Always test your paint contrast on a spare F-15 wing before painting for real. Canopy Meanwhile, took a little break from the model to do some landscape painting. "Why?"

Thank you Mark. I did look at the F2 part, this time it's too short. I looked at every photo I could find of an F-16 carrying this pod, this one having the best angle. So what I did was modify the regular pylon to match this photo as close as I can get. For comparison here is the F2 part versus the modified F1 part. Made a better jig. I get a lot of foam from the refrigerated medicine I get every few months. I took a makita reciprosaw to it and reassembled into a box jig with a hot glue gun. Almost ready to paint! Just need

Thanks for the comments! I made a decision to get a small hobby table vice and it's worked wonders when it comes to cutting resin straight. Then I wondered if I really wanted to clamp the whole model to this vice and I was like, ehhhh... probably not. I came up with cutting up a foam block with slits for the wing tips so I can work on the underside tid bits without damaging the vertical stabilizer. Very easy to make with a standard razor saw. I had to temporarily remove the pitot probe because the glue didn't really bond. Going to have to rough it up with sandpaper and clean the joint wi

Ty crackerjazz, I went right to the grocery store's baking section for food coloring and found something called McCormick assorted food dye and egg coloring. I stripped with windex like you said and it worked great. I used about 5FL Oz of future in a pallete dish mixed with 5 drops of red/green/blue to get a neutral smoke color. Mixing those colors in equal parts comes out exactly like smoke with slightly more on the green side. Added 2 more drops of yellow and half a drop of more green. Mixed it well before dipping. Came out a little weak so I let it dry 2 hours in my food dehydrator (w

Ty Thadeus. I tried the Italeri once, not sure why I gave up on it. I read somewhere here that the number of engine petals on it is wrong or something. I ended up taking the AN/ALQ-131 from it and sticking on a Hasegawa F-16CJ. Also, for anyone that can help, I tried airbrushing Tamiya smoke/green tints on the canopy but it turned out matt. I dipped it in future again but it only improved it by 50%. I'm thinking I either need to dip it again or try all over with future and food coloring. I'm thinking the microscopic textured layer simply wont go away with another layer of wax

For the static electricity dissipators i used toothbrush bristles. At first I thought it would be a good idea to use tape to hold up the bristle and apply superglue and accelerator at the joint but this didn't work as well as i thought it would. My shakey hands kept pulling the bristle off before the superglue took hold. The tape method risks pulling off the bristle and leaving too much excess glue to cut off. Then I thought of something I never tried before, applying superglue on one part and brushing superglue accelerator the other part so that it bonds almost immediately. I also held t

Wow there's carving tape now. I remember when I took out all the dymo tape from the office supplies drawer from my dad's study table as a kid. Definitely gonna try some of this.

I'm doing up the old 1/48 Hasegawa kit because frankly, it still looks just as good as the newer and better Tamiya offering if you paint and weather it right. You have to work harder of course, so all the more impressive to see a built up Hasegawa than a Tamiya. I took inspiration from this ancient post by Piero De Santis, who did an excellent F-16CG Block 40. I basically wanted my own copy so I splurged on an overpriced Hasegawa F-16CG on ebay and also got every relevant resin details and decals available to make my own example. It's been a slow build (almost a year) due to other hobbies,

I'm currently in the process of thinning the sidewalls. How does one test fit the resin sidewalls? It seems impossible to dry fit these pieces without them falling out of place...

Thanks scotthldr. I made a mistake and put all these parts in an ultrasonic cleaner that I use for deep cleaning my airbrush. The rudder pedals couldn't take the vibration and broke into pieces. The back of the cockpit also received a hairline fracture. Luckily everything else is intact. Next time I'll use a toothbrush... The kit is a 1/72 F-16CG/CJ by Academy, cockpit set by Aires and external updates by Wolfpack designs. I'm making a CG Aviano jet.

Hi all, It's my first time doing a complete detail set with resin and photoetch parts. I'm kinda daunted by the fact that these aftermarket parts don't really show an assembly order. It's hard to understand the big picture in terms of building and painting order. I've studied all the instructions but they're mostly exploded views with arbitrary arrows pointing from one part to another. Not that I expected much knowing that these sets are usualy made in Korea and the Czech Republic. Anyone have any advice strategies for an aftermarket detailing noob? 20180414_005953

Wrapping this one up. 2018-04-09 22.47.30 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr 2018-04-09 22.49.38 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr 2018-04-09 22.52.04 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr

Ok so, the argument for building the old monogram F-15C is that you can buy about 4 of these for the price of a Hasegawa/GWH one in the same scale. According to (somewhere deep in the internet that I have long forgotten), this kit is also arguably the best shape and outline representing the real thing, though many also say that it is only correct for an -A version. To boot, the latest rerelease has some striking decals. However, the cons of this kit is long and distinguished. Old raised lines. Cockpit fit takes some remedy to sit level. The forward/rear fuselage joint takes a

Thanks! Hataka colors sprays fine, I did 1:1 distilled water to thin it. Only issue is that vinyl masking tape pulled off a few flakes when I thought it was dry enough. Next time I will clean the parts of fingerprint oil more thoroughly with alcohol and give it a clear coat seal between each color, and use only tamiya tape.

Interesting preshade technique, I will have to try that sometime. I like how the patches are encased in the clear base, very integrated in design. Some people slap the actual cloth patches on their dioramas and it doesn't look right, like it draws attention away from the model, I think.

I too bought a MiG-29 as a "break" from my current build. There's gotta be a quantum connection happening...

I got around to the panel wash stage. Here it is being force dried in a food dehydrator. I did the panel wash with water soluble oil paint thinned way down with a drop of dish detergent. I tested it on the underside and it was still too strong, and some of the rougher spots were stained for good. Guess I'll have to touch that up later. When I wiped off the excess, I rubbed off a couple stencils. Oh well. For the top side I thinned the wash even more, and also worked more carefully. IMG_20170215_143012 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr

I put this off for too long due to other distracting hobbies. I did 98% of the decals in one sitting. IMG_20170209_184733 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr IMG_20170209_185434 by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr

Update! image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr image by Jesse Flauta, on Flickr I used a combination of flexible vinyl tape cut to 1/32 inch width and regular tamiya tape to mask this job. I still need some touch ups since the white grey did not stick well in some places. After shooting the aggressor blue from hataka, it looked a little too flat and muted greyish green to me. I changed the hue a little by shooting very thinned tamiya clear blue over it and was much happier.

I saw some pictures of an "elephant walk" of models on a desk, and display cases of the same finished plane. There's even pictures of huge stashes of unbuilt F-4's and F-14's and what have you. I might think you're a crew chief of the real thing, or maybe you just like it so much that you need one of each squadron markings or something. So, what is the common theme you look for? Why are you obsessed with it? How much is too much?

Digging up this post 'cuz I'm an F-16 fan. Just wanna add more praise to the display you have here. The model, the details, the photography, all excellent! Keep it up!