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my favs are F`s

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About my favs are F`s

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  1. Next up - the cockpit side frames. This is how thin they were oob - the first pic is zoomed to see what exact part of the side frame I mean: And these is how thick they are indeed - a couple of pics of the real thing: So, I glued a stripe of plastic underneath the frames, then sanded them smooth on the sides toward the pilot, then shaped them as in the pic or at least I tried to be as close as possible. Then I added the tubes for the cooling air that come out of the rear bulkhead. They should have red stripes insulation but I'll add them easly after the painting. The canopy handle is also not added... well the frames are done and ready for painting. 🙂 Way better than before.
  2. The rear bulkhead of the cockpit is done too. The two hydraulics moving the canopy are in their imaginary position. I decided to go the easy way - with holes in the bulkhead where the hydraulics will slide in when the canopy is closed. I tried but I can't make them retractable realistically. At least it's a solution this way too. This is (almost) the kit part: And the ready bulkhead: Now I'm making thorough modifications of the side frames of the cockpit and more on that soon. 🙂 cheers!
  3. Oh man, both are awesome. The weathering is... juicy! 🙂 Btw if you attach/display it like that - I should say that it is a pretty ellegant solution!
  4. Thanks Steve! @Slartibartfast, yeah I know that - I used to do it as a waterproof insulation of the shaft of an old rc boat... ages ago... but it could indeed work just nicely for this purpose as well. I should try it of course. Tu!
  5. Hi Aigore and thx! Nope, no lubric. whatsoever. I actually tried once to do so with a tiny bit of mineral lube (for my bike's chain) about 1-2 years ago - for the MLG of F-111 in 1/48, just to see what will happen - and yes, it does signifficantly affect the moving of the parts, but I always have something in mind - that a lube may "damage/wear" the plastic in some way in long terms. But it actually does not. Yet I prefer not to lube the moving parts for just such cases.
  6. It all started with the side panels again... drilling, filling, cutting, etc... Thats the amount of holes: check out the amount of pins I placed inside. It looks like a forest of pins when you ook it in front: And that`s the ready thing, painted and weathered. Some decals here and there.
  7. Well...how sexy it is...a lot; how beautiful those red soviet markings are... I'd always prefer the us markings :) but the edits of all those misalignments and fit issues - well done! Absolutely fantastic. I wonder how you didn't edit them before though, even before the riveting and the describing...those were some pretty bold seamlines or at least they look like that in the closeups. Congrats again on this....juicy "finish" :)
  8. +1 in the awesomeness of this build. I especially like the clean look and the dropped control surfaces. The angled photos should be amazing...
  9. Yes, of course, airbrushing a little bit more diluted/liquid primer should be enough for a more smooth pattern. Nice tip. I always forgot how small things are in this scale; the tank on the pics looks huge.
  10. Hi! Amazing progress! as much as I can see from the pic above, the real tank has slightly more fluid stripes/lines. So, why not try to cover/dip the tank with the adhesive stripes in lacquer, then wait it dry completely, and then do the flour procedure? The lacquer should even the difference of the stripes and the plastic surface underneath (between the stripes) for a more fluid pattern;)
  11. What a tiny little beaut. :) ...or a little bit more. :)
  12. Nice. Game-changing those pe doors! Keep it up!
  13. Oh wow, I had to catch up. Thanks guys a lot for the nice words. Slartibartfast; awesome clarification, tu much! After lots of trials with all those "ready parts" I found out that I don't have what it gets to make it justice, so I did it myself and actually I'm quite happy with the result. One major con though - the glare of the entire plastic piece at a certain angle - it definitely looks like it's not a transparent screen with holes, but a solid transparent piece. I think this effect will kind of interfere with the glare of the wind shield when viewed at the same angle... But I rather prefer this abstract view than a closeup with an overwhelming screen (...mesh :) ) visible. Thanks again. oh, ang guys, I think I will put off this model aside for a while cause guess what... I decided to build the B-2 . . . but this time in 1/144 :) (the revell kit) I'll keep you posted once finished. I think it won't take long. It's just at the assembly of the two fuselage parts; then only the wings need to be attached; final touch ups; painting, etc.
  14. The main IP - holes; raw knobs/switches and screens; finally done 🙂
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