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my favs are F`s

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Everything posted by my favs are F`s

  1. Guys, has anyone heard of decals or resin decals that imitate sewing and/or stitches for leather upholstery? I'm quite far from this topic so I just would like to try and ask here... I did a thorough reseatch but found nothing. For example, how to imitate stitches along the edges of leather upholstery in 1:12 scale or even 1:8. Is there any easy/efficient way to do it? Thanks & cheers! 🙂
  2. Thanks much! I did further research and I think I found enough clues. I think MRP-48 Super Clear Gloss got to do the thing as it is acrylic lacquer. Thanks again. Helped a lot!
  3. Hi guys 🙂 I have a little bit of a strange question, of course about something that I do for the first time and I'm just slightly precautious. So, is it good to spray 2-composite polyurethane varnish over a celulose/lacquer varnish? What I mean specifically is that I already sprayed Tamiya LP-9 Clear and now I would like to finish with a wet coat of MRP-279 2K for an even better gloss finish. Is it a good combination? Does anyone try that before? Should I have any concerns about cracks of the Tamiya lacquer or of the paint underneath (it is also MRP metalizer, celulose/lacuqer paint)? I n
  4. Dude, 🙂 spectacular and lovely, is what I can say! This is gorgeous!
  5. Hi Steve! Very nice start, a good collection of AM you got there 🙂 . Sometimes I also feel that need to build something old, simple and rugged, such as my SR-71 in 1/72. Btw I just ordered yesterday the Kinetic's kit of RQ-4B Global Hawk, and the box says that it has some 60+ parts.... Amazing feeling 🙂 Anyway, I like the F-wonderleven quite a lot and I have the HobbyBoss kit from quite some time now. So I also collected refference pix and I just went through them. And yes, I found about a dozen images of the NLG and here are only a few that show that upper section of the bay:
  6. Always nice to see the Raptor in the WIP. Hope you make it really good. It loks like a nice start, I especially like the cables in the bomb bays. 👍 If I build it one day, I would sand flush all the raised details on the fuselage and scribe them instead. That's just a tip of course. 🙂
  7. Thanx MMM! So, the rims are the standard kit parts only with enlarged holes. Here is the difference: And both done with enlarged holes: Then all is painted white and then lacquered thoroughly.
  8. Hi bud 🙂 just one quick for inspiration... I can't miss the chance to share this video of Mitko: This brings me so much memories 🙂 Hope you like it. Have a nice build! This should make for a very nice model and the landing gear is reaaaaly overwhelming... unique and interesting.
  9. MLG adventures... The journey started by making the mounts for the white metal pylons on some special quite modified slots on their bays, with 2 strong magnets per pylon: Then I made the doors to open and close. This time I think I used the best (easy to make and very effective) hinge mechanism so far. Here are the doors open and the hinge from inside: Now the tires, the diagonal struts and other preps.
  10. The yare still not in the perfect romboid shape but I won't go any further.... at least for now 🙂 And I did many other edits as well... the trailing/leading edges were thinned down, the bevels near the rotating surfaces are deepened and sharpened, and that's just about it. I was also worried about how straight will the trailing/ leading edges become although the rotation on the hinges, but all is just fine I think. Those are the leading edges: And only a testfit + a quick video... they rotate that smooth:
  11. The ruddervators are done. I won't glue their roots yet because there are plenty of sharp delicate edges. So I used this kind of a jig and a flat piece of sandpaper to smoothen the tops of the inner facets on both sides of the ruddervators, trying to make a more romboid shape of their tops.
  12. There is a slightly delicate issue to fix though. The thickness of the ruddervators in their top areas is way too much, which is due to their central facets that run throughout the entire pieces, which is wrong. The tips of the fins should end up in a romboid shape and not like that with kinks and bumps: A couple of references: I'll definitely keep the central edge but I'll try to smoothen out the transition of the facets between the bottom and top sides of the ruddervators by trying to create the needed romboid shapes
  13. Ruddervators adventures . . . I made stainless steel hinges so they rotate quite smoothly and nicely now. Here is one closed and one still open:
  14. The baffles are painted and ready, but first, I'll have to make the ruddervaters. These baffles are only half a milimeter thick so I would like to avoid more chances of touching this delicate rear area of the fuselage... where... the ruddervaters have to fit right inbetween. 🙂 and I'd like to make them moveable.
  15. 🙂 10x SERNAK 👍 A little bit of updates from the making: the vanes got a new arrangement according to a picture of the original plane: While the exhaust was thinned down slightly overall too: Then here is the change of the new vanes by contrast to the original ones from the kit:
  16. +1 🙂 You're off to a good start! Make it real good. I'll follow with interest . 🙂
  17. Exhaust mods: As you can see from the pictures of the real plane, the entire exhausts in the model are a little bit on the thicker side. The guide vanes need thinning, canting ans overall reshaping with an airfoil, and shortening too. I plan to tackle them low and slow. 🙂
  18. So, after a lot of test fits, I ended up painting the acrylic parts black from the inner sides so to make them not transparent at all. Otherwise, they were really way too transparent, it was just surreal to see the engine faces clearly through the mesh screen. So, here is a test fit only of one of the screens over the not transparent acrylic parts. And please, stay home make models because the situation requires it!
  19. The holes include basically the entire top sides of the intake trunks 🙂 But I walled off the provisions to fit seamlessly with the relief doors. The struts of the engine faces are thined down too and I made them "transparent". And here is what I plan to do with the thin delicate PE screen mesh for the intakes. I'll just add thick solid transaprent acryllic pieces underneath. So far it works and looks good.
  20. In the making of the suction relief doors... actually they are done, I made them with hinges and magnets as well, and here is a clip of the closing/opening: This is how the door looks like from inside: And the required holes are traced on to the trunks, ready to be drilled and fine tuned for a perfect fit to the fuselage:
  21. The cockpit with its basic colors, and some PE upgrades. Before: And after:
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