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my favs are F`s

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Everything posted by my favs are F`s

  1. The original canopy frame was quite thin... so I added 1mm plastic sheet under the front edge and the angular frames + detailing and the hidraulics for the movement. The first pic is the original frame, and then - after the thickening:
  2. Next up - the cockpit side frames. This is how thin they were oob - the first pic is zoomed to see what exact part of the side frame I mean: And these is how thick they are indeed - a couple of pics of the real thing: So, I glued a stripe of plastic underneath the frames, then sanded them smooth on the sides toward the pilot, then shaped them as in the pic or at least I tried to be as close as possible. Then I added the tubes for the cooling air that come out of the rear bulkhead. They should have red stripes insulatio
  3. The rear bulkhead of the cockpit is done too. The two hydraulics moving the canopy are in their imaginary position. I decided to go the easy way - with holes in the bulkhead where the hydraulics will slide in when the canopy is closed. I tried but I can't make them retractable realistically. At least it's a solution this way too. This is (almost) the kit part: And the ready bulkhead: Now I'm making thorough modifications of the side frames of the cockpit and more on that soon. 🙂 cheers!
  4. Oh man, both are awesome. The weathering is... juicy! 🙂 Btw if you attach/display it like that - I should say that it is a pretty ellegant solution!
  5. Thanks Steve! @Slartibartfast, yeah I know that - I used to do it as a waterproof insulation of the shaft of an old rc boat... ages ago... but it could indeed work just nicely for this purpose as well. I should try it of course. Tu!
  6. Hi Aigore and thx! Nope, no lubric. whatsoever. I actually tried once to do so with a tiny bit of mineral lube (for my bike's chain) about 1-2 years ago - for the MLG of F-111 in 1/48, just to see what will happen - and yes, it does signifficantly affect the moving of the parts, but I always have something in mind - that a lube may "damage/wear" the plastic in some way in long terms. But it actually does not. Yet I prefer not to lube the moving parts for just such cases.
  7. It all started with the side panels again... drilling, filling, cutting, etc... Thats the amount of holes: check out the amount of pins I placed inside. It looks like a forest of pins when you ook it in front: And that`s the ready thing, painted and weathered. Some decals here and there.
  8. Well...how sexy it is...a lot; how beautiful those red soviet markings are... I'd always prefer the us markings :) but the edits of all those misalignments and fit issues - well done! Absolutely fantastic. I wonder how you didn't edit them before though, even before the riveting and the describing...those were some pretty bold seamlines or at least they look like that in the closeups. Congrats again on this....juicy "finish" :)
  9. +1 in the awesomeness of this build. I especially like the clean look and the dropped control surfaces. The angled photos should be amazing...
  10. Yes, of course, airbrushing a little bit more diluted/liquid primer should be enough for a more smooth pattern. Nice tip. I always forgot how small things are in this scale; the tank on the pics looks huge.
  11. Hi! Amazing progress! as much as I can see from the pic above, the real tank has slightly more fluid stripes/lines. So, why not try to cover/dip the tank with the adhesive stripes in lacquer, then wait it dry completely, and then do the flour procedure? The lacquer should even the difference of the stripes and the plastic surface underneath (between the stripes) for a more fluid pattern;)
  12. What a tiny little beaut. :) ...or a little bit more. :)
  13. Oh wow, I had to catch up. Thanks guys a lot for the nice words. Slartibartfast; awesome clarification, tu much! After lots of trials with all those "ready parts" I found out that I don't have what it gets to make it justice, so I did it myself and actually I'm quite happy with the result. One major con though - the glare of the entire plastic piece at a certain angle - it definitely looks like it's not a transparent screen with holes, but a solid transparent piece. I think this effect will kind of interfere with the glare of the wind shield when viewed at the same angle... But I rather p
  14. The main IP - holes; raw knobs/switches and screens; finally done 🙂
  15. the nlg is "done" as well. its glued to the cockpit tub, but still the wiring is not ready. the retraction is good. btw I have a vid of the moving of the Flir and will try to post it in a giffy...
  16. The cockpit is on the way now... all switches and knobs will be replaced with thin tiny plastic rods. its not ready yet. sory about the lack of spacing between the pix. they also appear to be in reversed order but it will be quite overwhelming to post them 1by1.
  17. Lots of things are going on... my laptop is not working and I'm posting from my phone 🙂 so I'll miss the thorough explanations. Hope the pics are speaking enough. So the Flir is done, moveable, via two gears:
  18. Noooice! But I think the bomb bays need a little bit more wiring... ;)
  19. You nailed those intakes. Absolutely gorgeous. And the smooth transitions on the outer sides are just as they should. It really is a beatiful kit but you perfectionized it . Well done!
  20. This is one very very beautiful plane! And of course, the only better thing that one plane are.. of them.
  21. I started the FLIR and... yeah, it's always the simplest and easiest method that works the best. 🙂 I'm talking about the fine screen mesh, which I was about to make with the PE screen. But, I first did a coupe of trials with stainless steel grits of two different grades, and a piece of plastic scared with the tip of the knife... This is the PE - it's just out of scale. Maybe there are finer grits however, but that's what I got: This is with the tea filter. It really is the finest mesh but the transparency is almsot none:
  22. Nope I'm not. It's an awesome read, no doubt about it. The three braces are there to strengthen the stabilizers no doubt about it either. My point was that I would have thin them just a little bit so they don't look so massive. We all know how important is every rivet or fastener to be flush with fuselage because of the airflow,... same thing here. Actually I searched for angled images of these braces to see how really thick they are but couldnt find any. Neverheless, it's just my taste and opinion about the thickness of these details.
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